Category Archives: Off the Beaten Path
Off the Beaten Path: Rural Towns in the Buenos Aires Province
(Photo by Facundo Prámparo)
Argentina is a vast country with many very different places to visit. Traveling to Buenos Aires usually means staying in Capital Federal, undoubtedly, the city has a unique magnetic pull; it is after all the country’s stunning capital. However, the province of Buenos Aires has charming towns that are well worth visiting to get the feel of the rural aspect of Argentine living. Many of these places are close to the city so they make great quick getaways. Below are some of our picks:
San Antonio de Areco: This gaucho town, just 113 Km’s away North West from the city centre, is the perfect place to find typical customs, native silverwork and to enjoy nature. Some of the recommended places to visit include the Museo Gauchesco y Parque Criollo Ricardo Guiraldes, the Museo Taller Draghi, and La Olla de Cobre for fantastic homemade chocolate and alfajores. Getting there takes two hours approximately by bus to Retiro.
Where to stay: There are various estancias, inns and Bed & Breakfasts to choose from. Some of the more known options are Estancia La Porteña de Areco, and El Ombu de Areco.
San Pedro: A little further up North, on the banks of the Paraná river is this small town that was founded in 1907, surrounding a Franciscan convent. Now a day it is a one of the most important fruit ports in the country. Places to visit include La Campiña, a fragrant orange farm open to the public, the Plazoleta Fray Cayetano, and the Fernando Garcia Curten art museum. It is also a great place for fishing and other aquatic activities.
Where to stay: Hotel San Pedro Palace, the oldest hotel in the town which dates back to 1898 and is spick and span due to recent renovations.
Lobos: This small town just 100km to the south west of Capital Federal is famous for its estancias, lake and outdoor life. It is also a historical town where both gaucho and indigenous culture clashed and where General Peron was born. Attractions include the Laguna de Lobos, the Peron museum, a museum of natural sciences and various estancias.
Where to stay: Estancia la Candelaria-A top-notch estancia offering everything from gaucho shows to parachuting and massages in a gorgeous French style chateau surrounded by fragrant nature.
Tandil: Further down south, the town of Tandil sits on the edge of the Sierras de Tandil providing a rugged terrain, perfect for rock climbing and trekking. It is also an important historical landmark as it was a big military fort where important battles were fought. The biggest attractions are natural landmarks such as the Cerro Centinela, Monte Calvario and Piedra Movediza amongst others. Tandil is also a special place for cured meats and cheeses.
Where to stay: Posada de los Pajaros is set in the middle of the sierras providing for a tranquil atmosphere surrounded by nature. Otherwise stay at the Altos Avenida in the town center.
Day Trip to La Plata
(Photo by mccopa)
La Plata is the capital of Buenos Aires province. It is commonly referred to as the “ciudad de los tilos” (linden city) because its streets and squares are lined with linden trees. Its most common nickname however, is “ciudad de las diagonales” (city of diagonals), because urban planner Pedro Benoit, designed its unique city grid full of diagonal streets with small parks or squares every six blocks. It also has rich architecture including a Le Corbusier building, the Catedral de La Plata, which is the largest church in Argentina, and La Plata University, which includes an observatory and a natural history museum, amongst others.
Some places to visit:
Museo de Ciencias Naturales de La Plata: This famous natural sciences museum has a permanent exhibit that traces the history of life from the inorganic to the organic and concluding with mankind and culture. It showcases over 2,500,000 objects including dinosaur fossils. Open Tue-Sun from 10am-6pm. Tickets 6pesos. Paseo del Bosque S/Nº. La Plata. (54-221) 425-7744 / 9161 / 9638. museo@museo.fcnym.unlp.edu.ar.
Catedral Metropolitana de La Plata: This stunning New Gothic style church is the largest in Argentina, and has 37 French and German vitraux, impressive carvings and religious icons and an ecclesiastic museum. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm and Sundays from 9am-8pm. calle 14 between 51 and 53. La Plata. museocatedral@speedy.com.ar.
Casa Curutchet: Swiss architect Le Corbusier built this house for Dr. Curutchet between 1949 and 1953. Now a day it is leased to the Colegio de Arquitectos and can be visited from Tuesday- Friday between 10am-2pm. Entry fee: 40 pesos. 53 Street # 320. La Plata. – Buenos Aires – Argentina. casacurutchet@capba.org.ar.
Parque Provincial Pereyra Iraola: This natural reserve on the outskirts of La Plata city once belonged to the aristocratic Pereyra Iraola family. The premises, which spread over 10,000 hectares, have over 100 tree species, and are commonly visited for bird-watching and horseback riding. It is also an architectural landmark as it has a pampa-style estancia from the 1800’s, where the family lived.
República de Los Niños: This Disney-style children’s theme park on the outskirts of La Plata was built in the early fifties for civic learning. The team of architects based the design on stories by Hans Christian Andersen, the Grimm brothers and legends by Tennyson and Mallory. The park also includes a doll museum with dolls from all over the world. The theme park can be visited every day from 10am-6pm and costs 10pesos to get in. Camino General Belgrano and 501, M. B. Gonnet, La Plata. 0221-484-1409.
How to get to La Plata:
The best option is to take a long distance bus from Retiro, which takes approximately an hour to an hour and a half, depending on traffic and on the bus. Buses leave every twenty minutes from the Retiro bus terminal, and tickets cost 20 pesos for the fast bus and 10 pesos for the slower bus that also stops at Constitucion. The bus service is Terminal Costera linea 195 and the timetable is available here.
Another option, which takes longer, is to take the train from the Constitución Train Station. See timetable here.
There is also an English Tour of La Plata with hotel pick-up and drop-off. More information here.
Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
(Photo by lbonini)
One of the most spectacular views of the city can be found at the ecologic reserve behind Puerto Madero. This spot of nature in the city has a curious story that began with humans taking over the river´s shore.
At first, from 1918-1950 the area was used for bathing. There was not much more than the river and its banks. Then, the water became contaminated and it could no longer be used for freshening up in the summer so, in the 70´s, it was decided that it would be conditioned to build the city´s administrative center. To do so, the land was reclaimed from the river. The project was abandoned in the 80´s and when nature realized humans had no use for it, it decided to colonize the rubble filled banks that regularly flooded. The area became covered in water hyacinths and soon birds and other wildlife made it their home. In 1989 it was finally declared an ecologic reserve.
Nowadays the ecologic reserve is open to visitors from Tuesday to Sunday and can be toured on weekends from 9.30am-4pm. One Friday a month, the closest to a full moon, a nocturnal tour of the reserve is organized. To participate you must call to sign up on the previous Monday. Below is the list of the remaining scheduled nocturnal tours for 2012.
| Sign-Up Date | Nocturnal Tour |
| 02-April-2012 | 06-April-2012 |
| 30-April-2012 | 04-May-2012 |
| 28-May-2012 | 01-June-2012 |
| 02-July-2012 | 06-July-2012 |
| 30-July-2012 | 03-August-2012 |
| 24-September-2012 | 28-September-2012 |
| 22-October-2012 | 26-October-2012 |
| 26-November-2012 | 30-November-2012 |
| 24-December-2012 | 28-December-2012 |
Contact details:
Av. Tristán Achával Rodríguez 1550, Puerto Madero
4893-1588/ 4893 -1597 interno 108
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 8am-6pm
Neighborhood Markets and Fairs in Buenos Aires
(Photo by jvc)
Neighborhood markets are charming places to find local characters and unique flavors and knickknacks. Below is a list of markets in BA where you will come across traditional foods, trinkets, craftwork, bargain prices and freaky finds.
Belgrano
Feria Modelo de Belgrano: Foodies will enjoy this indoor European style fair which was started in the 50´s in a well preserved 1800´s building and is now the place to go for gourmet products such as Patagonian trout, mushrooms, cheeses, and unique meat cuts like quail or armadillo. Open Mon-Fri from 8am-1pm and 5pm-8.30pm, and Sat from 8am-1pm. Ciudad de la Paz and Juramento.
Barrio Chino: Also in Belgrano is the local china town, a popular place amongst locals and foreigners who seek oriental specialties, and unique colors and flavors. Juramento and Arribeños.
Palermo
Mercado de Pulgas in Palermo: The Dorrego Flea Market in Palermo is often overlooked and is the perfect place to go on a treasure hunt. Antiques and curious finds are waiting to be dug up and claimed in this charming neighborhood market. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. Av.Dorrego and Conde.
Recoleta
Feria de Artesanos Plaza Francia: If you´re looking for hand woven textiles, wood carvings, artisanal leather goods and other local craftwork the Artisans fair in Plaza Francia, right next to the Recoleta cemetery, is the place to go. Open on weekends and holidays from 11am-8pm. Av. Libertador and Pueyrredon.
San Telmo
Feria de Antiguedades de San Telmo: San Telmo is a world known antique center where valuable collectors items are sold, but also, where knick-knacks and unique objects from the immigrants that populated the country can be found. Although the neighborhood is full of antique stores that can be visited during the week, it’s the fair on Sundays that gathers visitors and locals alike. Defensa and Humberto 1.
Caballito
Mercado del Progreso: This food market in the Caballito neighborhood is one of the oldest in the city having opened in 1889. Colorful vegetable stands and butchers that sell meat fresh from the farms are what the market is known for. The market is also around the corner of the antique tram, which you can visit on the weekends. Market open on Mon-Sat from 7.30am-1pm, and 5pm-8.30pm. Av. Rivadavia 5430.
Mataderos
Feria de Mataderos: The Mataderos fair is held every Sunday and offers regional foods, gaucho accessories, knitwear, and leather bags amongst others. Gaucho traditions, such as the “carrera de sortija” and typical dances from around the country are also carried out on a stage. The fair is on Lisandro de la Torre Avenue, in Mataderos on Sunday. To get there, we suggest you coordinate transport with the hotel, as you will have to go through some dodgy areas to arrive.
More:
For organic produce, eco products and a laid back atmosphere head to El Galpón de Chacarita. Wednesday and Saturday 9am to 6pm. Av. Fédérico Lacroze 4171, Chacarita. 4554 9330.
Cheap bargains, unusual finds (including odd shaped mannequins) and noisy crowds at the Once shopping district.
Popular Beach Destinations
Come the summer and porteños flee the city for the annual beach season. During December the first vacationers start to arrive and by New Years the beaches are crowding until they peak in January. The beaches quiet down a bit in February, as do prices and by March the crowds have disappeared and scattered visitors remain, taking advantage of the last days of summer, the bargains and the solitary shores.
So where are the most popular and nicest beaches for a quick escape? Read on.
In Argentina
For a crowded classic summer location: Mar del Plata
(Photo by sprain)
Founded in 1874, Mar del Plata is one of the oldest beach towns in the Buenos Aires province and a very popular destination. The seaside town gets incredibly crowded, so, it´s not the place to go for a quiet gettaway, however if you like beaches with bustling city options such as theatres, cafes, and shops then it may just be the place.
To go with a group of friends or family, enjoy the shade of pine forests: Pinamar, Cariló and Mar Azul
(Photo by GabbyAloe)
Pinamar (the largest and most crowded of the three), Cariló and Mar Azul are all along the same coast in the Buenos Aires province. There are also some in between towns on the coast such as Ostende, Valeria del Mar and Villa Gesel (this last one is popular but not so nice as the others). All of the towns are surrounded by small pine forests, have great sandy dunes and are popular beach destinations.
For colder waters and amazing wildlife- Puerto Madryn
(Photo by Mariano Fotos)
Puerto Madryn is to the south of Argentina in the province of Chubut. This popular destination is visited every year for its unique fauna, including whales, penguins and seals!
Other popular beaches in Argentina include Las Grutas, Necochea, and Miramar.
In Uruguay
For fashion, parties and celebrity sightings- Punta del Este.
(Photo by coolcopetins)
This upscale beach in Uruguay is the hottest vacationing spot for models, sports stars and other fashionable Argies who like to strut their stuff and party to the early dawn. Fashion shows, and of course intense parties are par for the course.
For a romantic getaway- Punta del Diablo
(Photo by Cleber Machado)
This small colorfull fisherman’s town in the Rocha district of Uruguay has beautiful beaches and great stretches of deserted shores to explore.
To get away from civilization- Cabo Polonio
(Photo by iAudioguide)
Cabo Polonio is an eco beach town where no cars are allowed and where there is no electricity. The beaches are amazingly beautiful and clean as are the eco houses built there. Due to the environmental preservation of the area the stars at nights can be seen brighter than in any other beach town and they also have a small group of sea lions living in the area.
Other popular beaches in Uruguay are La Paloma, La Pedrera and Piriapolis.
Off the Beaten Path: Day trip to La Campiña
(Photo by gotencool)
Set in the Buenos Aires town of San Pedro, La Campiña is a 25 year old orange farm owned by a couple who wished to turn their love for the land into their life. Now a days the farm not only cultivates over 100,000 fruit trees, wheat and soy, it is also open for public visits and special lunches made from La Campiñas own produce.
Visits include a tour of the orange plantation (with the added joy of the orange blossoms perfume in the spring), of the selection process, of a dovecot, jam making area, storage and the restaurant.
La Campiña is open on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from 10AM with the last guided tour starting at 4.45pm. Charters to San Pedro and back are offered by Turismo Billoch and take approximately two hours and a half to get there.
Whilst you are in the area you can also visit the charming town of San Pedro, set on the shores of the Parana River. The town, which is a fruit and fishing paradise and is famous for its ensaimadas, has some excellent views and is also home of an old battle field (La Vuelta de Obligado) and of a museum showcasing renowned artist Fernando Garcia Curtens work.
A Different Perspective with Foto Ruta Tours
(Photo by paukrus)
A camera is a probably one of the best accessories a traveler can have. It captures unforgettable moments, unique cultural aspects of the stimulating new territory being explored, and it allows us to share the beautiful things we saw with our friends and family. With this in mind and more, professional photographer Jocelyn Mandrake and her associate Becky Hayes have taken tourist photography to a whole new level on their Saturday Foto Ruta tours. What they propose is to get to know the city from another point of view, taking their travelers through off the beaten path locations and setting creative guidelines for the photographs so that they can explore the local colors and characters through the lens from a new perspective, finding what they normally wouldn’t on a typical tourist location. An added element is brought to the experience as the tour group gathers towards the end, sharing and discussing the pictures and different interpretations of the guidelines.
The Foto Ruta tour runs every Saturday from 2pm-6pm and costs 100 pesos. Upcoming locations are listed on the Foto Ruta webpage.
We Recommend: Isla Martín García
(Photo by Ostrosky Photos)
Between Argentina and Uruguay, in the middle of the Rio de la Plata is a scantly populated island called Martín García, one of Buenos Aires´ natural reserves and historical landmarks.
The island, which was discovered by the expedition of Juan Díaz de Solís in 1516 was initially used as a prison 1765 until 1886 since it was very difficult to escape from due to the turbulent waters around it. Later on it was also used as a political prison and military garrison and some of the country’s most important and controversial political figures such as Marcelo Alvear, Hipolito Yrigoyen, Juan Domingo Peron and Arturo Frondizi served time there.
Now a days the island functions as a tourist destination and ecological reserve with over 800 species of plants, and more than 250 species of birds. Historical sites include a museum, a lighthouse, the prisons and a cemetery amongst others. The island is also famous for its Panettone.
How to get there
There are only two ways to get to the island, one is by a light aircraft which takes approximately 20 minutes from the city, and the other is by the Cacciola boat company in Tigre which offers day trip excursions including snacks and lunch and also overnight excursions with lodging at the only hostel in the Island. Aircraft information here. La Cacciola here.
We Recommend: Day Trip to Colonia
(Photo by estradAfora viagens )
Argentines cross over to Uruguay frequently for weekend getaways to lovely towns and summer holidays at the beach. One of the common destinations for a day away is Colonia del Sacramento, a historic town founded in 1680 with a combination of Portuguese, Spanish colonial and Post-Colonial styles.
This small charming town is just an hour away from Buenos Aires by Ferry and has a variety of attractions. Some of these include the historic quarters where Bastión del Carmen, an old fortress lies, seven museums including the tile museum (Museo del Azulejo) where a collection of valuable Portuguese, French and Spanish tiles are exhibited, the municipal and indigenous museums which tell more about the heritage and history of Colonia, the Spanish museum, the Portuguese museum and Casa de Nacarello which is an 18th century Portuguese house, and an aquarium. We also recomend that you walk down the lovely coast at sunset before stopping at Lentas Maravillas (Santa Rita 61, Barrio Historico), a great teahouse overlooking the river. There are also some wonderful art galleries and some interesting restaurants such as La Florida, a renovated antique house which serves gourmet dining (Odriozola 215) , El Drugstore (Portugal 174), which has a colorful ambiance including an antique car set for two to dine in, and the traditional Pulperia de los Faroles(Misiones de los Tapes 101).
Colonia is just a ferry ride away. Both Buquebus and Colonia Express offer various promotions for ferry rides to Colonia as well as special day trip fares.
We Recommend: San Antonio de Areco
(Photo by Eduardo Amorim)
To the North of Buenos Aires province, just 113 Km’s away from the city, lies a little town abuzz with visitors looking for a bit of history and a taste of gaucho life. The homeland of Segundo Ramirez, a local gaucho who poet and novelist Ricardo Güiraldes was inspired by when writing Don Segundo Sombra, one of the pillars of Argentine literature, is the perfect place to catch a glimpse of the typical countryside gaucho life, to find native silverwork and traditional crafts, and explore historic landmarks.
Our suggestions:
Check out historic Gaucho artifacts and learn more about this Argentine archetype at the beautiful Museo Gauchesco y Parque Criollo Ricardo Güiraldes which is structured like an eighteenth century hacienda.
The Pampa Indigenas were already adorning their wives with silver bracelets way before the Spanish colonized the area so it should come as no surprise that one of the local specialties should be silverwork. The Centro Cultural and Museo Taller Draghi showcases some of the finest examples of the elaborate designs of renowned silversmith Juan José Draghi.
Visit the historic bridge (Puente Viejo) and the San Antonio de Padua church, two of the first constructions of the town.
Take a canoe down the river, ride a horse through the open fields or go sports fishing to enjoy the natural environment San Antonio de Areco has to offer. Contact services here.
Stop for a sweet treat at La Olla de Cobre, where Carlos and Teresita make their own chocolate starting from the processing of the cacao bean to the delicious end product. Don’t miss their fantastic alfajores!
How to get there?
Two options are available to get to San Antonio de Areco, one is by car, the other by bus.
By car take Ruta 8.
By bus: Head to the Retiro Bus Terminal where bus companies are grouped together by region. Chevalier has a bus to Areco that takes about two hours. During the summer season it is advised to buy tickets ahead of time.
Where to stay?
There are various estancias, inns and Bed & Breakfasts to choose from. Some of the more known options are Estancia La Porteña de Areco, El Ombu de Areco, and Paradores Draghi.
Tips:
Go on a weekday to avoid crowds and if you’re traveling in November don’t miss Tradition Week where festivities and local customs are celebrated all month.
