A tour of the iconic “Avenida de Mayo” – Part 1

Avenida de Mayo is one of the most iconic avenues in Buenos Aires, connecting the house of government (or casa rosada) and the house of congress. The first avenue ever created in South America, and modeled after the great boulevards of Paris, today it boasts a cacophony of different architectural styles. Mainly influenced by Italian and Spanish immigrants Avenida de Mayo is often compared to the Gran Vía in Madrid.

The epicenter of many political and historical Argentinian landmarks, Avenida de Mayo has always been a part of Argentine culture, from it’s theaters to the many protests and marches to congress, this avenue is often featured in history books and news broadcasts alike.

We’ll begin this tour in Plaza de Mayo and walk all the way to Congress, stopping to admire some of the beautiful buildings adorning the avenue.


1) Plaza de Mayo: Casa Rosada, Cabildo, & Piramide de Mayo
Plaza de Mayo takes its name from the revolution of the 25th of May 1810, the beginning of Argentina’s fight for independence from Spain, which took place right in this square.

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source: turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar

La Casa Rosada (Balcarce 50, C1064, CABA)
La Casa Rosada, or pink house, is the seat of the Argentine national government and houses the president’s office. The president himself resides at the Quinta Presidencial in the neighborhood of Olivos, however Roque Sáenz Peña did live here during his presidency, between 1910 and 1914, making him the only president to use it as his official residency.
The reason for the color is unknown and a source of many theories, one such one is that the then president Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, in an attempt to appease political tensions, ordered it to be painted pink by combining the colors of feuding parties, the federal party (red) and the unitarian party (white).

El Cabildo (Bolívar 65, C1066, CABA)
El Cabildo de Buenos Aires was Spain’s colonial administration headquarters. Originally constructed in 1580, the cabildo was demolished due to its poor state in 1725 and rebuilt over the second half of the 18th century. Far from being what we see today, the building continued to suffer many changes: in 1894 part of it was demolished to allow for the Avenida de Mayo, and in 1931 yet more of the cabildo was taken down to allow for the Avenida Julio A. Roca.  Nowadays the cabildo functions as the National Museum of the Cabildo and the May Revolution.

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source: turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar

La Piramide de Mayo
This 19 meters high pyramid was constructed in 1811 to celebrate the first anniversary of the may revolution. Four of its original sculptures have been relocated (representing navigation, mechanics, astronomy and geography respectively), however one is still standing at it’s top: a sculpture by Joseph Dubourdieu representing freedom.
This monument is possibly best known for the part it played in Argentina’s human rights history. Starting in 1977, a group of mothers whose sons and daughters had beenabducted by the military dictatorship Proceso de Reorganización Nacional, began marching, asking for their children to be brought back to them. The group, named Madres de Plaza de Mayo wore white handkerchiefs, drawings of them can be seen painted at the bottom of the pyramid today to commemorate their bravery.

2) Casa de la Cultura/ La Prensa: (Av. De Mayo 575, C1084, CABA)
Constructed at the end of the XIX century by Carlos Agote and Alberto De Gainza, the Casa de la Cultura was originally meant to function as the headquarters of the La Prensa newspaper, one of the most circulated in Argentina at the time. A rather conservative paper it has opposed populist regimes like Peronism and shown support for military coups.
The influence of French architecture being obvious to the eye, both Agote and De Gainza completed their studies in Paris, it’s journalistic past can be spotted when looking up: a statute by Maurice Bouval of Pallas Athenea stands tall holding a piece of paper and an electric lamp representing Prometheus fire, a clear symbol of freedom of speech.

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source: turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar

3) Palacio Vera: (Av. De Mayo 769, C1084, CABA)
A building that stands out for it’s art nouveau style, the Palacio Vera was created by Arturo Prins and Oscar Ranzenhofer and inaugurated in 1910 by Isabella, Princess of Asturias as part of the celebrations of Argentina’s centennial and the revolución the mayo or revolt of may.
Nowadays it’s probably most notorious for being the home to The Tunnel library, a place that specializes in first editions and old books. A favorite for collectors and avid readers alike.

4) Café Tortoni: (Av. De Mayo 825, C1084, CABA)
Café Tortoni opened it’s doors in 1858 moving to its current location in 1880. One of the many cafes in Avenida de Mayo, this one is particularly famous for it’s clients. From politicians like Lisandro de la Torre and Marcelo T. De Alvear to iconic popular idols like Carlos Gardel and Juan Manuel Fangio, Café Tortoni boasts an impressive list of illustrious guests. Inside it’s doors the Agrupación Gente de Artes y Letras was founded, an artistic group created by Benito Quinquela Martín (one of Argentina’s most famous painters), writers of the ilk of Jorge Luis Borges and Alfonsina Storni gathered inside this historic cafe. Other famous custumers to boast of? Albert Einstein and Federico García Lorca to name a few!
The Agrupación Gente de Artes y Letras ended in 1943, however this does not mean Café Tortoni forgot it’s creative roots: nowadays they still offer cultural events, mainly of jazz and tango.

5) Intersection with Avenida 9 de Julio:
The avenue “9 de Julio”, takes its name from Argentina’s independence day and is one of the widest in the world. In this crossroads a statue can be seen, created by Aurelio Teno, of don Quijote de la Mancha, a present from Spain to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Buenos Aires. Gifted in 1980, it’s white pedestal is meant to represent the landscape of La Mancha.

Buenos Aires – The eternal city of Jorge Luis Borges

“To me, it seems a mere tale that Buenos Aires had a beginning: I judge her to be as eternal as water and air” – Jorge Luis Borges

Buenos Aires is a city that breathes literature. It is a constant part of the lives of many porteños, who sneak around the streets with books to read in cafes, by the river or in parks. One only needs to know where to look to find literary cafes, poetry slams and bookstores full of rich history all over town.

Many of Latin America’s’ greatest authors lived, at one point or another, in Buenos Aires. Perhaps the best known Argentine author internationally, Jorge Luis Borges, happened to have been a true lover of Buenos Aires, and saw the city through a very special lens, one we will try to look through today.

Borges was born the 24th August 1899 in Buenos Aires. He grew up in a middle class family of no considerable wealth, not rich enough to live in the downtown area of Buenos Aires yet not poor. He grew up in Palermo, at that time considered a poorer neighbourhood, not the lively, trendy one it is today. There he lived until 1914, the year in which his family emigrated to Switzerland.

I suggest following Borges’ footsteps through Buenos Aires and finding some interesting places along the way. This mini tour of Borges’ life in Buenos Aires will not start, however in Palermo but rather in Recoleta, another neighbourhood close to the author’s life. We will then walk a little through Retiro, see some of his homes, and then return to where it all began, Palermo, where we’ll have a drink and toast to Borges’ legacy!

Without further ado, let’s start!

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1) The Jorge Luis Borges International Foundation and Borges Museum.
(Dr. Tomás Manuel de Anchorena 1660, C1425, Buenos Aires)

Founded by his widow, Maria Kodama, the foundation came into existence on the 24th of August 1988. What once was Borges’ family home, between the years 1938 and 1943, today is a museum dedicated to the author’s life and work. Here he wrote “Las ruinas circulares”, one of his better known short fiction pieces.

1. 2) Av. Pueyrredón 2190, Buenos Aires.

On our way to the Recoleta Cemetery (very much worth a visit in it’s own right), we will walk past one of Borges’ many homes in the city. On the fifth floor at 2190 Pueyrredón Avenue we can stop and appreciate, not only one of the most beautiful parts of Buenos Aires, but also where he lived from 1929 until 1939. A small footnote on our Borgesian journey.

2) The Recoleta Cemetery
(Junín 1760, C1113)

Arguably the most beautiful cemetery in the country, and for sure one of the most stunning in Latin America, the Recoleta Cemetery is home to many of the most illustrious argentine families. A history lesson hiding within, this place is very much worth a visit, especially for photography aficionados.
The cemetery hosts Borges’ family mausoleum, where his mother is buried. He himself lies in Geneva, having died there, continuing a somewhat sad tradition of national writers finding their final resting place abroad.

3) La Biela
(Av. Presidente Manuel Quintana 596, C1129ABO)

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Photo Credit: La Biela Website

After a morning of heavy walking around Recoleta we will all be tired, so what better place to stop and have a coffee than La Biela, one of the most iconic (and yes, touristy) cafes in the city.
La Biela’s history is rather remarkable, which is of course why it’s visited by porteños and foreigners alike. Once a popular destination for the likes of Fangio and Borges, inside we will find a cacophony of portraits, photographs and statues, all celebrating their famous customers. Yes, it is ok to go ahead and take a photo with Adolfo Bioy Casares and Borges, we have all done it, no one is judging.

3. 1) Av. Quintana 222 and 263

On our way to our next stop we can walk through Quintana avenue and tick two of Borges’ other homes off our list. It is at 222 that Borges lived shortly after returning from Europe and at 263 where he resided from 1943 until 1946.

4) Plaza San Martín
(Maipú 1210, C1006)

Yet another place worth seeing on it’s own merit, Plaza San Martin, named after the General José de San Martin, was witness to most of Borges adult life. Walk around or sit on a bench and enjoy a good book, do it Borges style!

4.2) His final home in Buenos Aires

Borges spent his latter years on the 6th floor, apartment B, at 994 Maipu avenue. He moved here in 1944 and lived there with his mother until she died aged 99, in 1975. Here, most poetically perhaps, is where he eventually lost his sight, from a condition inherited from his father.

5) Back to Palermo

As mentioned above, Palermo is where it all started, so it is where we shall end our small tour. On the originally named “Jorge Luis Borges” street we can find another two homes. The first one is at 2135, where he spent his childhood, and the second one is at 2147, where his grandmother used to live.
If we are too tired to walk, the 152 bus should take us back to Palermo, just ask for the Av. Santa Fe 3901 stop.

6) Borges 1975
(Jorge Luis Borges 1975, C1414DGG, CABA)

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For the end, a personal recommendation. On the same street at 1975, you will find a bookshop called Borges 1975. Regardless of whether during the day or at night, this is a nice place to visit: unpretentious and simple yet deeply porteño, this bookshop comes to life at night. Enjoy a pizza or a glass of wine with a new book or, if you’re lucky, take advantage of their live jazz shows and art exhibitions and relax after a very Borgesian day!

Celebrate Valentine’s Day at UCO Restaurant.

Known as Día de San Valentín, in Buenos Aires loved up couples as well as a few Tinder dates, will be flocking to the city’s streets and looking to enjoy the most romantic, or commercial night of the year – depending on how you look at it.

Fierro-Hotel-Patio

Not as widespread as festivities over in Europe or the U.S, our top pick is to spend an evening with us at UCO, sampling delicacies from our four course, wine paired menu. Away from the chaos of Palermo’s packed streets, you can expect to spend a sophisticated and tasteful evening with us in the comfort of our cozy restaurant.

Paired with an exclusive selection of Bodega El Esteco wines, chosen from their Cafayate based vineyards, our head chef, Francisco García, has been hard at work crafting a four-step menu to leave your date in awe of its culinary delights, and hopefully of you too.

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Bodega El Esteco. Ph: In Salta

Beginning with refreshing langoustine carpaccio served with mango, avocado, and a yellow garlic sauce, say cheers and kick off your celebrations with a glass of white sparkling wine.

Moving on to a light but flavorful combination, starry-eyed diners will be able to sample a combination of burrata cheese, figs, and hazelnuts, married with a 2017 Blanc de Noir.

Leading on to a meaty main, we’ll be serving up a classic cut of entraña with a difference. Along with a potato gratin and roasted peppers, lovebirds will be sipping on an Old Vines 2018 Malbec.

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Ph: La Rotativa Digital

Followed by a pallet cleansing melon granita, for our pièce de résistance, guests will be able to dig into a pistachio dacquoise, served alongside a peach mousse and a scoop of Madagascan vanilla ice-cream. Topped off with a glass of 2017 Cosecha Tardía Torrontés, it’ll be a fitting end to a gourmet evening.

For foodies and wine-lovers looking to impress their date, please contact us via +5411 3220 6820 or write to us at restaurant@fierrohotel.com To allow plenty of time to savor and truly enjoy our Valentine’s Day menu, we suggest a reservation between the hours of 8 PM and 9 PM.

Uco – Soler 5862

Restaurants and Bars in Palermo Hollywood

For cocktail connoisseurs, devout foodies and remote workers looking for cozy cafes, Fierro Hotel’s Palermo Hollywood location couldn’t be more ideal. With around 130 restaurants in the vicinity (according to TripAdvisor), travelers choosing to stay in Fierro Hotel will be spoilt for choice when it comes to gourmet dining options, creatively mixed drinks, and well-sourced coffee.  

The hub of Buenos Aires’ booming, diverse, and inventive restaurant and bar scene, you may find that Palermo Hollywood offers almost too much choice. To make the decision a little easier, we’ll be sharing with you a few of our favorite spots in the barrio.

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Ph: Le Banana

La Mar Cebichería

Part of Gastón Acurio’s stellar international envoy of Peruvian restaurants that take in Miami, Sao Paulo, and Lima, La Mar Cebichería is undoubtedly one of the best in Buenos Aires. Serving up ceviche with a bite, the lime and chili flavored tiger’s milk is some of the punchiest you’ll taste outside of Peru. Accompanied by piscos with a definite kick, any of their causas rellenas are worth a try too.

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Ph: SaltShaker

Aldo’s

With a couple of bases across the city, Aldo’s is a hot choice for oenophiles looking for a lengthy wine list along with a sophisticated bistro style food menu. With impressive floor to ceiling shelves of wine, there’s plenty of bottles to choose from. However, with friendly staff who are more than happy to make suggestions, you’ll find your ideal wine match in no time. As an added bonus, if you have any leftover wine after the meal, they are happy to wrap it and send it home with you.

Arévalo 2032

the-argentine-experience

Ph: Aguiar Buenos Aires

The Argentine Experience

If you’re looking to meet other travelers, learn about the country’s distinct cuisine and rituals, head to The Argentine Experience for a dinner party style evening. Offering guests a three-course wine paired menu, diners sample modern recreations of meaty cuisine (vegetarians are well looked after too) as well as a diverse selection of regional wine. Interactive too, guests make empanadas and can opt for the additional cocktail hour and learn how to shake up a few drinks. 

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tegui

Ph: Minuto Uno

Tegui

Covered in street art at the front, you’d be forgiven for not giving more than a passing glance at the front of Tegui. Upon entering the discreet door though, diners are greeted with a sleek and elongated dining hall. Argentine chef Germán Martitegui serves up refined Mediterranean fare while balancing his other job cohosting Argentine MasterChef. Highlights include the grilled oysters served with strawberries and seaweed. 

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Ph: tuguiadelbarrio

El Perón Perón

Restaurant El Perón Perón is one of those places that has to be seen to be believed. Paying homage to the divisive Perón leadership, the place feels more like a shrine than a restaurant. Stuffed full of memorabilia, photographs, and notes of gratitude, you’ll certainly feel the level of support and popularity the Peróns held. A popular meeting point for supporters of peronismo, you may even hear the regimental march halfway through the evening. Serving classic Argentine food, drinks are strong and pack a punch. 

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uptown

Ph: Drinks & Co

Uptown

One of the most talked about bars to open in Buenos Aires in the past few years, bypassing the picky bouncers and gaining access to Uptown is a pretty coveted feat. Based on the gritty New York subway, visitors enter via a metro station and train car before heading  into the subterranean cavernous bar. Well attended by a team of highly skilled bartenders, drink making comes with an almost theatrical approach. Often hosting invited DJs, Uptown is the place to start your night.

Arévalo 2030

franks-bar

Ph: Panachic 

Frank’s

Once a secret speakeasy, Frank’s has climbed its way up onto rankings of the World’s best bars. Now, practically on everyone’s radar, it’s definitely not unknown anymore, but it’s still an experience not to be missed. With password only access, a riddle or a clue is posted on their Facebook. Only granted entrance with the correct answer, visitors have to then speak the password through a red telephone. If you make it to this stage, a 1920s themed interior and some of Buenos Aires’ most refined cocktails await.

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vico

Ph: SalPimenta

Vico Wine Bar

A wine lover’s dream, the second location of Vico is a one-stop shop for those looking to taste a range of lesser-known boutique Argentine wines. The wine bar which is one of the chicest around, houses over 170 different variations in electronic temperature-controlled cabinets.  Slightly futuristic in nature, guests are given a glass upon arrival as well as a charged card.  Visitors are then free to wander at their own pace and select what they want to try from each cabinet, using the card to pay for each glass. Choosing between a sample or a generous glass full, it’s a great way of trying a huge selection of wines.

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Christmas and New Year at UCO Restaurant

With Christmas and New Year just around the corner, if you are planning to be in Buenos Aires for either of the important dates, now’s the time to make festive plans!

While lots of the city’s restaurants and bars will be taking a well-deserved break over Christmas and New Year, Fierro Hotel’s in-house restaurant UCO will be laying on a special festive menu for both Nochebuena (Christmas Eve) and New Year’s Eve.

Christmas-Buenos-Aires

Ph: Welcome Argentina

If you’re new to Christmas celebrations in Argentina, it may come as a surprise that the main celebration takes place on the 24th and not the 25th. A family orientated affair, many people will opt to travel out of the city for both dates and spend time with relatives outside the city limits in the province and beyond.

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Ph: Photo by erin walker on Unsplash

 

Eating a huge meal at around midnight, presents are then torn open and celebrations then last right into the early hours of the morning. As you can imagine, December 25th is far more relaxed and usually involves eating leftovers and perhaps some sunbathing too.

The norm for New Year’s Eve is to have a big dinner with friends and family late at night (around 11 PM) followed by the popping of champagne at midnight. Friends will then get together and head out to party at around 3 AM often until late morning!

Offering one of the best alternatives to spending time with extended family and friends, here at UCO, we’ve come up with an exciting menu to enjoy among whoever you choose!

UCO-Restaurant

If you’d like to stop by for dinner on Christmas Eve or on New Year’s Eve our wine paired menu will include the following courses:

Salmon, beetroot, green leaves, sprouts

Burrata cheese, figs with an emulsion dressing

Patagonian lamb slow-cooked for 18 hours served with asparagus, and portobello mushrooms

Chocolate, pistachio, hazelnuts, and red fruits

The price is USD 125 per person and includes our sommelier-selected wine pairings, mineral water, and a coffee.

If you’d like to celebrate the holidays or beginning of 2019 pop in for Christmas Lunch or New Year’s Day Lunch and enjoy this three-course menu:

Tiradito style white fish, avocado and maize

Turkey, baby potatoes, peppers, and mushrooms

Carrot cake with cheese ice-cream

The price is 50 USD  per person and includes a bottle of wine (red or white) per three diners, mineral water, and coffee

UCO-Restaurant-Food

Our Christmas Day Dinner and New Year’s Day Dinner will include a four-course wine paired menu of:

Beef carpaccio, capers, and rocket

Langoustines, papas rosti, served with bisque

Turkey, plums, beetroot, maize

Chocolate truffles, cherries, and dried fruits

The price per person is 70 USD and includes our sommelier-selected wine pairings, mineral water, and coffee.

If you’d like to reserve a table, or would like to know a little more, phone +54 11 3220 6820 or email restaurant@fierrohotel.com

Where to Shop in Buenos Aires: The City’s Best Boutiques

The streets of Buenos Aires lend themselves to days of aimless ambling and strolling. Complete with cobbled streets, plane trees, and architectural gems that range from Parisian style art-nouveau buildings to Spanish revival colonial houses in the Palermo barrios, it’s ideal for an afternoon of soaking up the city’s beauty and hopping from shop to shop.

While not always associated as a shopping capital like say London or New York, Buenos Aires is becoming a destination in its own right.  Known for its young set of emerging designers looking to push creative boundaries and provide shoppers with a fresh and unique look that is an alternative to bland high street offerings, it’s also home to some of the best leather goods in the region, and locally produced soft furnishings for the home.

If you know where to look, you might just end up leaving with a fuller suitcase than you expected.

Enseres Bazar

Enseres Bazar

Ph: Estilos Deco

The Palermo Soho located interiors boutique offers unique, tastefully Instagrammable interiors that could easily look the part in a French Riviera style villa. Run by one of the city’s most stylish couples, Enseres Bazar specializes in kitchen accessories and utensils that’ll no doubt make the most reticent of cooks among us keen to get to the kitchen. Effortlessly chic, you’ll have a hard time choosing what to take home with you.

Enseres Bazar El Salvador 5984

Calzados Correa 

Calzados Correa

Ph: Pictame

A little off the tourist track in the more authentic feeling Almagro, Calzados Correa offers clients bespoke made shoes that are created on site by a team of highly skilled artisans. Started back in 1955 by Felix A. Correa, the store’s loyal client base often return year on year for what they know will be a high-quality pair of handmade shoes. With a selection of leather, you’ll even find capybara leather, a mammal unique to Latin America. Taking your measurements during an individual appointment, shoes are then usually ready to pick up two to three weeks later. Priced at around 130 USD, it’s a reasonable sum to pay for shoes that’ll most likely last a lifetime.

Calzados Correa – Mario Bravo 750

Panorama

Panorama shop

Ph: yuki.com.ar

Panorama’s stylishly curated shop floor brings in both self-confessed window shoppers as well as those looking to splurge looking for their next coveted purchase. Complete with matching accessories of backpacks and hats, shoppers will also find pop colored coats and coordinated outfits that beg to be tried on. Showcasing brands that are bang on trend on the Argentine fashion scene, look out for House of Matching Colours (a sporty casual brand) and Maydi (a sustainably made knitwear brand).

Panorama – República de la India 2905

Galería Patio del Liceo

Galería Patio Liceo

Ph: Maleva Mag

A hip enclave off the bustling Avenida Santa Fe, Galería Patio del Liceo is not your average shopping mall. A center of emerging talent and bohemian artists on the Argentine shopping scene, the Barrio Norte located space is ideal for an afternoon spent perusing upcoming art, stocking up on vintage clothing and enjoying a cortado at the in-house garden patio cafe.    Concept store and fashionable boutique store Greens is one to watch for fashionable staples while Monoblock offers quirky stationary supplies.

Galería Patio del Liceo – Av. Santa Fe 2729

Facon

Facon boutique

Ph: Maleva Mag

There are few things more enjoyable than shopping and sipping on wine as you go – watch out though, you might just find your purse strings are a little looser. While your bank balance might not be too happy, you can feel satisfied that your shopping habits are doing good in the wider community, all of the handpicked items are produced throughout Argentina by local artists and artisans. Ideal for picking up a few gifts, top choices include hand-woven rugs, organic leather goods, and gaucho knives. Doubling as a wine tasting venue, guests can expect to sample some of the country’s most exciting labels.

Facon – Nicaragua 4880 

An Insiders Look at Where to go Tango Dancing in Buenos Aires

Whether you’ve already caught a tango show or not, since you’re in its hometown Buenos Aires, you might be feeling inspired to pick up a bit of the fancy footwork yourself. Whether you’re mal coordinated with two left feet, or you’re a natural on the dance floor, Buenos Aires has plenty of places where you can easily give the dance a go.

While stepping into a milonga  (tango ballroom) could feel intimidating, tango culture in Buenos Aires is actually incredibly friendly and open – beginners needn’t worry.

If you’re looking for a dance partner there’s no shortage of willing accomplices (particularly for women) and one on one classes are readily available at affordable prices.

For those who haven’t yet adjusted to the Argentine clock (it’s nocturnal) be prepared to hang on a little – classes are late in the evening and if you’re looking to see the pros, the action doesn’t tend to get going in milongas until well after midnight.

La Catedral

 

la-catedral-tango

                                                                                                                                                     Ph: Trip Expert

A bohemian take on the traditional milonga, La Catedral is based in a disused dairy factory. The outside is fairly non-descript – you could easily walk by none the wiser of what’s going on inside. Its walls are adorned with locally created art and draped with red fairy lights. Full of tango dancers of all levels, it attracts a particularly international crowd – perfect for those making their first foray into the dance. If you’re looking to learn the basics head to one of their group classes, on from around 8 PM, (be prepared to wait a little as the place isn’t really known for punctuality). Later on performances and live music kick off from around midnight, leading on into the early hours. The kitchen is also known to be excellent with a vegetarian menu – not so common in this carnivorous capital.

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Queer Tango

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                                                                                                                                       Ph: The Independent

For those who hate the idea of following a stiff gender code, head to San Telmo’s Buenos Ayres Club on a Tuesday night for a LGBTQ milonga night. Turning tango on its head, and shaking up gender roles in this typically male-led dance, the night brings in dancers of all levels who aren’t afraid to challenge tradition and want to leave dated gender roles at the door. A great way to take an alternative look at the changing local scene.

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Bar Los Laureles

Bar-Los-Laureles

                                                                                                                                  Ph: Buenos Aires Connect

One of the city’s historical bares notables, entering Bar Los Laureles is like taking a trip back in time to the 19th century. Located in Buenos Aires’ southerly Barracas neighbourhood, it’s a little out the way for most of the city, but worth the trip to see a true remaining part of Argentine heritage. Throughout the week it’s a neighbourhood watering hole but come the weekend, it transforms itself into a lively milonga.

Av. Gral. Iriarte 2290

La Viruta

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                                                                                                                                             Ph: Blogs La Nación

If you’re not keen on rubbing shoulders with pro dancers and just want to give learning the basics a go, La Viruta, based in the Armenian Cultural Centre is a good place to start. You’ll find a whole mixture of tourists and locals who come here to learn – throw your fears to the side and prepare to dance. Lessons tend to take place a little earlier here, from around 6:30 PM, later on, be prepared to sit back and let those in the know take over the floor.

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Salón Canning

Salon-Canning

                                                                                                                                                           Ph: YouTube

An iconic Palermo haunt, Salón Canning is well known on the professional tango circuit. Dance lessons are available earlier on in the evening but by midnight the place will be packed out with the city’s finest tango dancers swirling across the venue’s polished wooden floors. If your moves don’t quite cut it, there’s always space for spectators who are welcome to sip at a drink and soak up the atmosphere.

Raúl Scalabrini Ortíz 1331