Recommended Restaurant: El Baqueano

The concept behind this successful auteur restaurant is to reincorporate native meats which have been excluded from popular cuisine. Their nine course tasting menu which changes monthly includes innovative dishes made with quail, hare, rhea, alligator, prawns from Puerto Madryn and other local delicacies. A unique approach to the native meat eating culture.

El Baqueano
Chile 495,  San Telmo
4342-0802

Opening Hours: Tue- Sat 8pm-12pm

5 Great Bars in the Palermo Area

(Mundo Bizarro: Photo by Bittermelon)

Isabel

A glitzy posh bar with a dark seventies inspired interior offering great drinks which you trade purchased casino chips (isabelinas) for.  Upbeat house music, pulsating ceiling lights and a courtyard with a lit fireplace complete the glamour of one of the best bars in the city.

1664 Uriarte, Palermo Soho

4834 6969

878

With one of the most interesting cocktail menus in town, this great closed door establishment is a great option for drinks any night of the week. The VIP bar in the back plays some great music, offers a great selection of whiskys and, has an indoor smoking area. (If you’re a guest at Fierro, access to the VIP can be arranged).

878

Thames 878, Villa Crespo

4773-1098

Bar 6

This trendy restaurant and bar is very popular amongst locals and foreigners. Oriental style carpets, lush couches and a resident dj give the place a great laid back ambiance in which to enjoy the evening.

Bar 6

Armenia 1676, Palermo

4833-6807

Mundo Bizarro

As the name of the bar suggests, this bar prides itself on its unique bizarre ambiance. Combining American 40’s and 50’s elements, great music, interesting visuals and even better cocktails, for which they have become famous, this is definitely a must in the Palermo area.

Mundo Bizarro

Serrano 1222, Palermo Viejo

4773-1967

Acabar

A lively and vaudevillesque atmosphere where you can play board games and choose one of their carefully prepared drinks made with fresh fruit. The colorfull decor and the vibrant crowd make for an upbeat and fun outing.

AcaBar

Honduras 5733, Palermo Viejo

4772-0845

5 Curious Stories from the Recoleta Cemetery

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(photo by mejillahyde)

Given the stories and characters the Recoleta cemetery holds, its no wonder that authors Jorge Luis Borges and Bioy Casares used to walk around it together and fantasize about the dead they would befriend if they were to be buried there themselves someday. Great political figures, scientists, writers and other important characters of the city are buried in this cemetery full of stories of broken hearts, love and hate, friendship, obsession, loyalty and ghosts. We looked into some of them and put together five of these curious anecdotes to share with you:

1-Wedded Un-Bliss

Tiburcia Dominguez and her husband Salvador María del Carril spent thirty years of their married lives without speaking to each other. The hatred they lived with for years was taken to their graves after the widow stated in her will that their statues were to be facing opposite directions.

2- To Die For

Gravedigger David Alleno worked for thirty years in the cemetery, where he destined his life savings to his very own plot in the burial ground that obsessed him. The sad story tells that after putting the finishing touches to his precious spot, he went home and killed himself.

3- Homage from a Son

Tomas Guido, one of the generals in the Argentine Wars of Independence was originally buried in the Recoleta Cemetery. His tomb, which took the form, a grotto was built by poet Carlos Guido Spano, one of his sons, who took upon the task of layering each stone with his own hands as a symbol of the humility they had always lived with.

4-The Employee of a Lifetime

The Saenz Valiente family was so happy with their servant, Catalina Dogan that they decided to give her a burial place in the prestigious cemetery. Given the class system of the time, they did however bury her at a distance, outside of the family vault.

5-The Buried Bride

Elisa Brown awaited the return of her fiancée Frances Drummond who fought against Brazil under the command of Admiral Brown (Elisa’s father). Upon his death the young commander handed a watch for the admiral to give to Elisa. The young woman, devastated by the tragic news is said to have drowned herself in her wedding dress to be reunited with the soul of her lover.

How to Make a Typical Argentine Asado

Making a good asado is an art that any proud Argentine man must master (although there are women that make great asado too!).  For this task, two elements are key, one, is the technique used for lighting the fire and the elements that will go in it (coal, wood chips…), and secondly is the knowledge of the different meat cuts and the different cooking points. Obviously, a tradition that is practiced and transmitted from generation to generation involves many different techniques which can’t all be mastered overnight, but you´ve got to start somewhere, so here it goes!

1- Clean the surface on which you will cook the meat.

2-Make 5-6 paper balls by crumpling newspaper.

3-Make a small wooden ‘building’  or jenga like structure around the paper balls using a discarded vegetable box or pieces of light wood. Make sure to leave enough space between the pieces of wood so that some air can pass through and enough open room on top so that you can later light the paper balls.

4-Put a circular pile of coal around the wood. (In the video, the coals were placed directly under the grill and under twigs so the fire spread and caught on.)

5-Light the paper balls making sure to watch if the twigs are lighting up.

6- Wait for the coal to catch and once the fire is out move some of the hot embers below the grill.

7- Start placing the meat, chorizos and other ‘achuras’ you may have decided to try (for a translation of meat cuts go here.)

8-Supervise the bottom of the meats and turn them around when they are toasty until the other side is toasty too. Add burning coal where you feel necessary, but keep in mind, asado is slow cooking method. Also keep in mind that some cuts and achuras cook faster than others. (Chorizos for example usually come out of the grill first).

9-Enjoy!

This Week in Buenos Aires

As April comes to an end, autumn continues to settle in, inviting us to stop by cafes to warm up the late afternoon with submarines and pastries. Book lovers can continue to visit the international book fair, to buy books, or attend conferences and by the end of the week the international circus festival infuses the city with some fun and games.

Monday

 

If your planning to visit the city center to see the obelisco, or to take a tour of the Colon Theatre, head to the Palacio de Aguas Corrientes (palace of running waters) on Cordoba Avenue and Riobamba first.  Originally built as a disguise for a water tower meant to provide clean drinking water to the people after the 1877 outbreak of yellow fever, the stunning palace now works as Aguas Argentinas (the local water company) headquarters and also as a museum.

For a great gourmet lunch in the nearby area head to Restó, just 5 blocks away from the Palace.

In the evening, head to the playful AcaBar in Palermo for a great time in a lively and vaudevillesque atmosphere where you can play board games and choose one of their carefully prepared drinks.

Palace of Running Waters

Riobamba 750 – 1° Piso

Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 9am-1pm

Tel: (54-11) 6319-1104

E-mail: museo_del_agua@aysa.com.ar

Restó

Montevideo 938

Opening hours: Mon-Wed 12-3pm,  Thur-Fri 12-3pm and 8-11pm

4816-6711

Cash only

AcaBar

http://www.acabarnet.com.ar/

Honduras 5733, Palermo Viejo

4772-0845

 

Tuesday


A visit to the ethnografic museum is a great way to learn more about the countries indigenous indentity and ethnic background. Currently the museum is hosting a photography exhibition of the indigenas towns from El Chaco, a collection of exotic objects from different cultures, an interesting exhibition on the indigenas from Tierra del Fuego and their conflict with European travelers, and an exhibit on the 4000 years of history in the northwest Argentina.

For some great food close by try the French cuisine at Brasserie Petanque, or for some coffee and pastries head to the close by Chile and Bolivar streets and sit down at Bar la Poesia or Cafe Del Amanecer.

In the evening go to Miloca to enjoy some drinks in the bars garden or terraces.

Ethnographic Museum

Moreno 350, San Telmo

Telephone: (54-11) 4345-8196/97

Opening hours: Tue-Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 3pm-7pmsábados y domingos de 15 a 19 hs

info.museo@filo.uba.ar.

Brasserie Petanque

Defensa 596, San Telmo

Tel: 4342-7930

info@brasseriepetanque.com

Bar La Poesia

Chile 502, San Telmo

Tel: 4300-7340

Cafe Del Amanecer

Chile 561, San Telmo

Tel: +54 (11) 43618308

Miloca

Niceto Vega  5189, Palermo

4775-5427

info@miloca.com.ar

Wednesday

Take a Fileteado Porteño Tour and discover the typical style of painting associated with Buenos Aires. The tour starts at 1.30pm in the Abasto area and moves to San Telmo either by bikes or public transport. It includes a snack in San Telmo and gives you the chance to try out the technique yourself!

In the evening check out Le Bar, an artistic space with great lighting and design offering live concerts on Wednesdays.

Fileteado Porteño Tour

http://www.054online.com/?IDi=SP&item=guias&subitem=lugares&id=178

Reservation required in advance

tours@054online.com

Le Bar

http://lebarbuenosaires.blogspot.com/

Tucuman 422, downtown.

5219-0858

Thursday


 Check out the national art funds new acquisitions in their exhibit at the Casa de la Cultura which is also exhibiting a collection from award winning local artisans work including carving, pottery,  and other  crafts

In the evening, at 8.30 pm, head to the Teatro El Cubo in the Abasto areas for La Musa del Capricho, a creative dance show which fuses dance, song, tango and theatre. 6 Blocks away from the theatre is Los Cocos, a great traditional pizza place with a great ambiance, also close by is Cafe El Banderin, a lovely cafe/bar surrounded by flags of all the national football teams.

Casa de la Cultura

Av. de Mayo 575, Subsuelo

or Av. Rivadavia 576

Te. 4323-9669

Exhibition opening hours Tue-Sun 3pm-6pm

Teatro El Cubo

Zelaya 3053 Parallel to Lavalle and between Jean Jaures and Anchorena

4-963-2568

info@cuboabasto.com.ar

Los Cocos

Av Córdoba 3303

Tel: 4963-0457

Cafe El Banderin

Guardia Vieja 3601

4862-7757

Friday


Visit the Museum of Spanish American Art and find out what life was like during the Colonial times. Afterwards head to the picturesque atelier of Gato Regazzoni where photographer Luis Abadi will be exhibiting portraits of ‘porteños.´

Later on at night check out Baila! at Centro Cultural Konex, a dance show featuring music, dance, percussion and theatre.

Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano

Suipacha 1422

4327-0228

Opening Hours: Tue- Fri 2pm-7pm Weekends and holidays 11am-7pm

Atelier Gato Regazzoni

Av. Libertador 405 (next to the train tracks)

Centro Cultural Konex

Sarmiento 3131, Abasto.

Tel: 4864-3200

Saturday and Sunday


Check out some of the international circus shows being hosted at the festival Polo Circo! More information here.

The Hidden Passages of the City

Sometimes, mistakes can result in wonderful surprises. Such is the case with some of the cities hidden passages, consequence of urban miscalculations. These narrow streets are charm filled corners to stumble upon whilst losing oneself in the city maze.

Pasaje Rivarola

Mirrored buildings and an eighty-year-old man who fixes antique clocks make walking into this passage almost like walking into a story. Additionally, the art bookstore and small independent gallery ‘Asunto Impreso’ makes for an interesting visit in the historic neighborhood of San Nicolas.

Pasaje Rivarola- Bartolomé Mitre 1300, between Talcahuano and Uruguay.

Pasaje Bollini

A historic passage in the Palermo neighborhood which housed immigrants and working class in the early nineteen hundreds. The cobblestones and low houses survived the real estate boom and now coexist with the neighboring streets full of high-rise buildings. This passage, which Jorge Luis Borges wrote a poem about (La Cortada Bollini), is now home of the Bollini foundation  and of La Dama de Bollini, an elegant cultural cafe in which poetry readings, live jazz and exhibitions take place.

Pasaje Bollini- Between Austria, Sanchez de Bustamante, French and Pacheco de Melo in Palermo

Pasaje Corina Kavanagh

The Kavanagh building in the Retiro area is said to have been commissioned by Corina Kavanagh to avenge the rejection of the Anchorena family of the romance between Mrs. Kavanagh´s daughter  (who wasn’t considered aristocratic enough) and one of the Anchorenas.  The instructions the architects received were to block the view from the Anchorena palace to the Santisimo Sacramento church they had built (which they were very proud of) with the Kavanagh building. From then on the only frontal view of the church that remains is through the passage.

Pasaje Corina Kavanagh- Between Florida, San Martín and Marcelo T. de Alvear.

Pasaje del Correo/Pasaje Suizo


A quaint passage in the Recoleta area with antique French style constructions and balconies. Once residential, it is now a place to stop for something to eat. We recommend brunch at Sirop Folie.

Pasaje del Correo- On Vicente Lopez between Rodriguez Peña and Montevideo.

Pasaje Zelaya

Tango and the Abasto market characterize the Abasto neighborhood, where Carlos Gardel grew up. In the neighborhood is a colorful passage of painted houses where cultural activities abound.

Pasaje Zelaya- Between Aguero, Jean Jaures, Tucuman and Lavalle.

Pasaje Lanin

Way of the beaten path, in the neighborhood of Barracas, is a beautiful passage that was intercepted by artist Marino Santa Maria who not only painted the facades of the houses but also decorated them with mosaics and pieces of glass.  The historical neighborhood, although somewhat unsafe, is also lined with grandiose houses of early rich immigrants who abandoned the neighborhood after an outbreak of yellow fever.

Pasaje Lanin- Between Branden, Suarez Jose Aaron Salun Feijoo and Dr. Ramon Carrillo.