Recommended Restaurant: El Baqueano

The concept behind this successful auteur restaurant is to reincorporate native meats which have been excluded from popular cuisine. Their nine course tasting menu which changes monthly includes innovative dishes made with quail, hare, rhea, alligator, prawns from Puerto Madryn and other local delicacies. A unique approach to the native meat eating culture.

El Baqueano
Chile 495,  San Telmo
4342-0802

Opening Hours: Tue- Sat 8pm-12pm

5 Great Bars in the Palermo Area

(Mundo Bizarro: Photo by Bittermelon)

Isabel

A glitzy posh bar with a dark seventies inspired interior offering great drinks which you trade purchased casino chips (isabelinas) for.  Upbeat house music, pulsating ceiling lights and a courtyard with a lit fireplace complete the glamour of one of the best bars in the city.

1664 Uriarte, Palermo Soho

4834 6969

878

With one of the most interesting cocktail menus in town, this great closed door establishment is a great option for drinks any night of the week. The VIP bar in the back plays some great music, offers a great selection of whiskys and, has an indoor smoking area. (If you’re a guest at Fierro, access to the VIP can be arranged).

878

Thames 878, Villa Crespo

4773-1098

Bar 6

This trendy restaurant and bar is very popular amongst locals and foreigners. Oriental style carpets, lush couches and a resident dj give the place a great laid back ambiance in which to enjoy the evening.

Bar 6

Armenia 1676, Palermo

4833-6807

Mundo Bizarro

As the name of the bar suggests, this bar prides itself on its unique bizarre ambiance. Combining American 40’s and 50’s elements, great music, interesting visuals and even better cocktails, for which they have become famous, this is definitely a must in the Palermo area.

Mundo Bizarro

Serrano 1222, Palermo Viejo

4773-1967

Acabar

A lively and vaudevillesque atmosphere where you can play board games and choose one of their carefully prepared drinks made with fresh fruit. The colorfull decor and the vibrant crowd make for an upbeat and fun outing.

AcaBar

Honduras 5733, Palermo Viejo

4772-0845

5 Curious Stories from the Recoleta Cemetery

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(photo by mejillahyde)

Given the stories and characters the Recoleta cemetery holds, its no wonder that authors Jorge Luis Borges and Bioy Casares used to walk around it together and fantasize about the dead they would befriend if they were to be buried there themselves someday. Great political figures, scientists, writers and other important characters of the city are buried in this cemetery full of stories of broken hearts, love and hate, friendship, obsession, loyalty and ghosts. We looked into some of them and put together five of these curious anecdotes to share with you:

1-Wedded Un-Bliss

Tiburcia Dominguez and her husband Salvador María del Carril spent thirty years of their married lives without speaking to each other. The hatred they lived with for years was taken to their graves after the widow stated in her will that their statues were to be facing opposite directions.

2- To Die For

Gravedigger David Alleno worked for thirty years in the cemetery, where he destined his life savings to his very own plot in the burial ground that obsessed him. The sad story tells that after putting the finishing touches to his precious spot, he went home and killed himself.

3- Homage from a Son

Tomas Guido, one of the generals in the Argentine Wars of Independence was originally buried in the Recoleta Cemetery. His tomb, which took the form, a grotto was built by poet Carlos Guido Spano, one of his sons, who took upon the task of layering each stone with his own hands as a symbol of the humility they had always lived with.

4-The Employee of a Lifetime

The Saenz Valiente family was so happy with their servant, Catalina Dogan that they decided to give her a burial place in the prestigious cemetery. Given the class system of the time, they did however bury her at a distance, outside of the family vault.

5-The Buried Bride

Elisa Brown awaited the return of her fiancée Frances Drummond who fought against Brazil under the command of Admiral Brown (Elisa’s father). Upon his death the young commander handed a watch for the admiral to give to Elisa. The young woman, devastated by the tragic news is said to have drowned herself in her wedding dress to be reunited with the soul of her lover.

How to Make a Typical Argentine Asado

Making a good asado is an art that any proud Argentine man must master (although there are women that make great asado too!).  For this task, two elements are key, one, is the technique used for lighting the fire and the elements that will go in it (coal, wood chips…), and secondly is the knowledge of the different meat cuts and the different cooking points. Obviously, a tradition that is practiced and transmitted from generation to generation involves many different techniques which can’t all be mastered overnight, but you´ve got to start somewhere, so here it goes!

1- Clean the surface on which you will cook the meat.

2-Make 5-6 paper balls by crumpling newspaper.

3-Make a small wooden ‘building’  or jenga like structure around the paper balls using a discarded vegetable box or pieces of light wood. Make sure to leave enough space between the pieces of wood so that some air can pass through and enough open room on top so that you can later light the paper balls.

4-Put a circular pile of coal around the wood. (In the video, the coals were placed directly under the grill and under twigs so the fire spread and caught on.)

5-Light the paper balls making sure to watch if the twigs are lighting up.

6- Wait for the coal to catch and once the fire is out move some of the hot embers below the grill.

7- Start placing the meat, chorizos and other ‘achuras’ you may have decided to try (for a translation of meat cuts go here.)

8-Supervise the bottom of the meats and turn them around when they are toasty until the other side is toasty too. Add burning coal where you feel necessary, but keep in mind, asado is slow cooking method. Also keep in mind that some cuts and achuras cook faster than others. (Chorizos for example usually come out of the grill first).

9-Enjoy!

This Week in Buenos Aires

As April comes to an end, autumn continues to settle in, inviting us to stop by cafes to warm up the late afternoon with submarines and pastries. Book lovers can continue to visit the international book fair, to buy books, or attend conferences and by the end of the week the international circus festival infuses the city with some fun and games.

Monday

 

If your planning to visit the city center to see the obelisco, or to take a tour of the Colon Theatre, head to the Palacio de Aguas Corrientes (palace of running waters) on Cordoba Avenue and Riobamba first.  Originally built as a disguise for a water tower meant to provide clean drinking water to the people after the 1877 outbreak of yellow fever, the stunning palace now works as Aguas Argentinas (the local water company) headquarters and also as a museum.

For a great gourmet lunch in the nearby area head to Restó, just 5 blocks away from the Palace.

In the evening, head to the playful AcaBar in Palermo for a great time in a lively and vaudevillesque atmosphere where you can play board games and choose one of their carefully prepared drinks.

Palace of Running Waters

Riobamba 750 – 1° Piso

Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 9am-1pm

Tel: (54-11) 6319-1104

E-mail: museo_del_agua@aysa.com.ar

Restó

Montevideo 938

Opening hours: Mon-Wed 12-3pm,  Thur-Fri 12-3pm and 8-11pm

4816-6711

Cash only

AcaBar

http://www.acabarnet.com.ar/

Honduras 5733, Palermo Viejo

4772-0845

 

Tuesday


A visit to the ethnografic museum is a great way to learn more about the countries indigenous indentity and ethnic background. Currently the museum is hosting a photography exhibition of the indigenas towns from El Chaco, a collection of exotic objects from different cultures, an interesting exhibition on the indigenas from Tierra del Fuego and their conflict with European travelers, and an exhibit on the 4000 years of history in the northwest Argentina.

For some great food close by try the French cuisine at Brasserie Petanque, or for some coffee and pastries head to the close by Chile and Bolivar streets and sit down at Bar la Poesia or Cafe Del Amanecer.

In the evening go to Miloca to enjoy some drinks in the bars garden or terraces.

Ethnographic Museum

Moreno 350, San Telmo

Telephone: (54-11) 4345-8196/97

Opening hours: Tue-Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 3pm-7pmsábados y domingos de 15 a 19 hs

info.museo@filo.uba.ar.

Brasserie Petanque

Defensa 596, San Telmo

Tel: 4342-7930

info@brasseriepetanque.com

Bar La Poesia

Chile 502, San Telmo

Tel: 4300-7340

Cafe Del Amanecer

Chile 561, San Telmo

Tel: +54 (11) 43618308

Miloca

Niceto Vega  5189, Palermo

4775-5427

info@miloca.com.ar

Wednesday

Take a Fileteado Porteño Tour and discover the typical style of painting associated with Buenos Aires. The tour starts at 1.30pm in the Abasto area and moves to San Telmo either by bikes or public transport. It includes a snack in San Telmo and gives you the chance to try out the technique yourself!

In the evening check out Le Bar, an artistic space with great lighting and design offering live concerts on Wednesdays.

Fileteado Porteño Tour

http://www.054online.com/?IDi=SP&item=guias&subitem=lugares&id=178

Reservation required in advance

tours@054online.com

Le Bar

http://lebarbuenosaires.blogspot.com/

Tucuman 422, downtown.

5219-0858

Thursday


 Check out the national art funds new acquisitions in their exhibit at the Casa de la Cultura which is also exhibiting a collection from award winning local artisans work including carving, pottery,  and other  crafts

In the evening, at 8.30 pm, head to the Teatro El Cubo in the Abasto areas for La Musa del Capricho, a creative dance show which fuses dance, song, tango and theatre. 6 Blocks away from the theatre is Los Cocos, a great traditional pizza place with a great ambiance, also close by is Cafe El Banderin, a lovely cafe/bar surrounded by flags of all the national football teams.

Casa de la Cultura

Av. de Mayo 575, Subsuelo

or Av. Rivadavia 576

Te. 4323-9669

Exhibition opening hours Tue-Sun 3pm-6pm

Teatro El Cubo

Zelaya 3053 Parallel to Lavalle and between Jean Jaures and Anchorena

4-963-2568

info@cuboabasto.com.ar

Los Cocos

Av Córdoba 3303

Tel: 4963-0457

Cafe El Banderin

Guardia Vieja 3601

4862-7757

Friday


Visit the Museum of Spanish American Art and find out what life was like during the Colonial times. Afterwards head to the picturesque atelier of Gato Regazzoni where photographer Luis Abadi will be exhibiting portraits of ‘porteños.´

Later on at night check out Baila! at Centro Cultural Konex, a dance show featuring music, dance, percussion and theatre.

Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano

Suipacha 1422

4327-0228

Opening Hours: Tue- Fri 2pm-7pm Weekends and holidays 11am-7pm

Atelier Gato Regazzoni

Av. Libertador 405 (next to the train tracks)

Centro Cultural Konex

Sarmiento 3131, Abasto.

Tel: 4864-3200

Saturday and Sunday


Check out some of the international circus shows being hosted at the festival Polo Circo! More information here.

The Hidden Passages of the City

Sometimes, mistakes can result in wonderful surprises. Such is the case with some of the cities hidden passages, consequence of urban miscalculations. These narrow streets are charm filled corners to stumble upon whilst losing oneself in the city maze.

Pasaje Rivarola

Mirrored buildings and an eighty-year-old man who fixes antique clocks make walking into this passage almost like walking into a story. Additionally, the art bookstore and small independent gallery ‘Asunto Impreso’ makes for an interesting visit in the historic neighborhood of San Nicolas.

Pasaje Rivarola- Bartolomé Mitre 1300, between Talcahuano and Uruguay.

Pasaje Bollini

A historic passage in the Palermo neighborhood which housed immigrants and working class in the early nineteen hundreds. The cobblestones and low houses survived the real estate boom and now coexist with the neighboring streets full of high-rise buildings. This passage, which Jorge Luis Borges wrote a poem about (La Cortada Bollini), is now home of the Bollini foundation  and of La Dama de Bollini, an elegant cultural cafe in which poetry readings, live jazz and exhibitions take place.

Pasaje Bollini- Between Austria, Sanchez de Bustamante, French and Pacheco de Melo in Palermo

Pasaje Corina Kavanagh

The Kavanagh building in the Retiro area is said to have been commissioned by Corina Kavanagh to avenge the rejection of the Anchorena family of the romance between Mrs. Kavanagh´s daughter  (who wasn’t considered aristocratic enough) and one of the Anchorenas.  The instructions the architects received were to block the view from the Anchorena palace to the Santisimo Sacramento church they had built (which they were very proud of) with the Kavanagh building. From then on the only frontal view of the church that remains is through the passage.

Pasaje Corina Kavanagh- Between Florida, San Martín and Marcelo T. de Alvear.

Pasaje del Correo/Pasaje Suizo


A quaint passage in the Recoleta area with antique French style constructions and balconies. Once residential, it is now a place to stop for something to eat. We recommend brunch at Sirop Folie.

Pasaje del Correo- On Vicente Lopez between Rodriguez Peña and Montevideo.

Pasaje Zelaya

Tango and the Abasto market characterize the Abasto neighborhood, where Carlos Gardel grew up. In the neighborhood is a colorful passage of painted houses where cultural activities abound.

Pasaje Zelaya- Between Aguero, Jean Jaures, Tucuman and Lavalle.

Pasaje Lanin

Way of the beaten path, in the neighborhood of Barracas, is a beautiful passage that was intercepted by artist Marino Santa Maria who not only painted the facades of the houses but also decorated them with mosaics and pieces of glass.  The historical neighborhood, although somewhat unsafe, is also lined with grandiose houses of early rich immigrants who abandoned the neighborhood after an outbreak of yellow fever.

Pasaje Lanin- Between Branden, Suarez Jose Aaron Salun Feijoo and Dr. Ramon Carrillo.

Lunfardo: A Slang from the Prisons and Tango

A lot of you may have noticed that Argentines don´t speak Spanish the same way most other Spanish speakers from other Spanish speaking countries do.
Differences in pronunciation of “y” and “ll” and  the use of “vos” instead of “tu” amongst others, constitute the main difference on an auditive level. However,  the incorporation of “lunfardo”, a jargon that originated in the prisons of Buenos Aires as a way of secret communication amongst prisoners  is what makes the local Spanish unique.
Initially Lunfardo was only spoken by criminals who incorporated Italian, Cocoliche (a mix of Spanish and Italian), Gaucho dialect, Aboriginal words, French and Portuguese into their new slang. They also reversed syllables so that for example cafe became feca, and tango became gotan. As lunfardo spread to the lower classes, it was incorporated to tango lyrics and hence introduced into the Spanish spoken by everyone.
Now a days, we still use many of these lunfardo terms, such as feca, which we invite you to order the next time you´re at a café.

Here is a small list of amusing terms which are still used and you can try out if you want. If you’re looking for a Lunfardo/English dictionary, try the Corrientes bookstores, there used to be one called “Mataburro – Lunfardo/English” by Sara Melul and Roberto Cruañas.

Afanar: (A fah nahr) is to steal and an afano is a rip off. “Me afanaron la billetera” (My wallet was stolen)  “Esa campera es un afano” (That jacket is a rip off).
Atorrante: (Ah toh ran teh) Good-for-nothing. Scoundrel.  It can be used for example to shout out the window at a bad driver. Also to affectionately call a child: “Vení acá atorrante” (come over here you little scoundrel.) It is said, but not confirmed,  that the word originates from a brand of the citiy’s water drainage pipes (A.Torrant) where the bums used to gather.

Boludo/a:  (Boh loo doh/dah) One of the most commonly used words by locals which means idiot but literally translates to someone with big testicles (even though it’s used for girls and women too!). It can be an insult “sos un boludo” (you are an asshole)  or just a way of calling each other “che boluda, ¿adonde vamos?” (hey girl, where you should we go?). A Boludez, is something easy, a piece of cake. “hablar lunfardo es una boludez” (speaking lunfardo is a piece of cake).

Guita: (Ghee tah) It means money. “¿Me prestas algo de guita?” (can I borrow some money?). It is believed to have been an existing word in gypsy slang and spanish prison slang.

Morfi/Morfar: (Mohr fee/ mohr faar) Morfi is food and morfar is to eat, very informal. “¿Che, Vamos a morfar?” (Hey, should we go grab a bite?) The origins of these terms is the argot french word morfer which means to ingest food.

Pibe: (Pee beh) Used in lunfardo to refer to a boy, or a male. “¿Ya vino el pibe del delivery?” (Did the delivery boy come?).  Its origins are disputed, some say it comes from an italian word meaning aprentice, others say it comes from a catalan word meaning aromatic where the word  was taken to describe bad smelling youth.

Pilcha: (Peel chah) Refers to the traditional gaucho attire and commonly used to speak of all clothes. Empilchado is a way of saying dressed to the nines. The word originally comes from an aboriginal language in which it means wrinkle.  Use it in a store where you like the clothes “¡Que linda pilcha!” (What nice clothes!).

This Week in Buenos Aires

Those of you visiting Buenos Aires this week may be wondering what will be going on given that Easter tends to promise more quiet time than action and attraction, however, fear not, the city always has something interesting to offer. Literary madness takes a hold of the city starting Wednesday when the annual International book fair is launched and religious celebrations and easter eggs follow as the locals take a few days off from the city leaving it clear of the busy bustle.

Monday

Take a walk down Pasaje Rivarola, a beautiful street which appears to be stuck in time in the historical downtown area. Built in 1926 and characterized by its mirrored buildings on both sides, it is a regular location for film productions looking for an old fashioned feel. Whilst you´re there visit “La Chacarita de Los Relojes”, a small shop specializing in antique clock and watch restoration.

In the evening head to Club Severino for a wild party hosting a gore night promising laughs and scares, make up artists and special effects.  We suggest you take a cab as the surroundings of Av. de Mayo and La Casa Rosada, where the club is located, is a bit dodgy at night.

Pasaje Rivarola- Bartolomé Mitre 1300, between Talcahuano and Uruguay.

Club Severino

Hipolito Yrigoyen 851

11pm onwards

Tuesday

A compilation of Argentine documentary photography (1850-2010) is being exhibited at the Centro Cultural Recoleta until this Sunday. A great opportunity to get a feel of the city’s history.

Afterwards head to the nearby “Clasica y Moderna” a book store and restaurant where you can browse for books,  have a meal or listen to live music. Ana Moraitis  sings live greek music at 9.30 PM. (check the web page for their music program if you’re planning to go at another date)

If you’re in the mood for some clubbing later, head to Palermo where nightclub Kika hosts “Hype”  their  Tuesday hit party.

Centro Cultural Recoleta

Junin 1930

4803-1040

Opening hours- 2pm- 9pm

Clasica y Moderna

Av Callao 892, Recoleta

4812-8707

clasica@clasicaymoderna.com

Kika club

Honduras 5339, Palermo

4137-5313

info@kikaclub.com.ar

Wednesday

For those interested in the local politics and upcoming elections the British-Argentine Chamber of Commerce is hosting a breakfast at the Hotel Panamericano de Buenos Aires to present an analysis of presidential candidates for 2011. The breakfast is $120, to attend send an email to eventos@ccab.com.ar.

For a look at geometric latin american art,  head to the Palais de Glace and check out the “MADI”  exhibition displaying works from Argentine, Uruguayan and Brazilian artists that took part in this movement.

Close by is the display  “Infinito Paisaje”  by Brazilian artists Katia Maciel and André Parente, where they showcase interactive installations and video projections about landscapes and love stories.

In the evening, the Centro Cultural Konex hosts their weekly Milonga “La Garufa” where the traditional tango genre meshes with a modern approach. Beginner and intermediate classes are offered at 8pm, advanced at 9.30pm and the milonga, with a live orchestra starts at 11pm.

Hotel Panamericano

Carlos Pellegrini 551

4348-5000

Palais de Glace

Posadas 1725, Recoleta

4804-1163

Infinito Paisaje

Espacio Fundación Telefónica

Arenales 1540, Recoleta

4333-1300

Centro Cultural Konex

Sarmiento 3131, Abasto

4864-3200

Thursday

A big event this week is the Argentina-England Copa de las Naciones polo match being played in Palermo. The event begins at midday offering live shows and lunch and the match begins at 3pm. Tickets available here.

Later on in the evening, tour the city s art galleries in its first Gallery Night of the year.

A great place for drinks later at night is 878, a hidden bar in Palermo with a great selection of whiskies and cocktails.

Campo Argentino de Polo

Av. Libertador 4300 and Dorrego, Palermo

4777 6444

878

Thames 878, Villa Crespo

4773-1098

Friday

Good Friday is probably the slowest day of the Easter holiday. You have two choices, you either experience the local Easter celebrations or you find something alternative to do. If you go for the first option, you might enjoy going to “Tierra Santa” a surreal religious theme park which has recreated old jerusalem, the resurrection of Christ and many biblical stories including the genesis. There will also be a staged Via Crucis,  but we recommend you experience this  in Av. de Mayo starting at 8.30pm in Plaza Lorea where the the procession will be accompanied by a choir and an orchestra.

If you want something alternative to do, head to the MALBA and check out the Grette Stern and the Nineteenth Century exhibition hosted at 5pm. Hitchcock fans will also be able to catch one of the movies being screened.

Later on at night go to Club Niceto for their Friday “Invasion” bash.

Tierra Santa

Av. Rafael Obligado 5790, Costanera Norte

0800-444-3467

info@tierrasanta-bsas.com.ar

Plaza Lorea- Rivadavia and Paraná

MALBA

info@malba.org.ar

Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Recoleta

+54 (11) 4808-6500

Club Niceto

Niceto Vega 5510, Palermo

4779-9396

Saturday

In the spirit of Easter go on an easter egg chocolate shopping spree at gourmet chocolateries Vassalisa in Recoleta, Tikal in Palermo, and Compañia de Chocolates in Palermo and Recoleta.  We also recommed you try the traditional rosca de pascua.

In the evening the Centro Cultural Recoleta hosts a clown and music show at 7pm.

Vasalissa

Avenida Callao 1940, Recoleta

(0)11 4806 4158

Tikal

Honduras 4890, Palermo

Compañia de Chocolates

Beruti 4634, Palermo

(5411) 4776-4614

info@companiadechocolates.com

Rodriguez Peña 1847, Recoleta

(5411) 4813-9434

Centro Cultural Recoleta

Junin 1930

4803-1040

Sunday

If you would like to attend Easter mass in English you can go to the Parroquia Madre Admirable near Retiro at 10am. Otherwise the United Community Church in the Acasuso town on the suburbs of the city offers services in English.

Sunday is also a great day to take a day trip to an estancia where traditional meals and shows are offered. More information on estancias and bookings here. http://www.estanciasargentinas.com/eng/index.php

Parroquia Madre Admirable

Arroyo 917, Downtown

4393-3887

Vegetarian Buenos Aires

With all the fame Argentine meat gets, a vegetarian eager to visit Buenos Aires for all its other charms might feel left out from the regular eating agenda. However, despite the carnivorous tendencies of the local cuisine, a variety of vegetarian and vegan options are thriving in the city, appealing to both herbivore and omnivores alike. Here are five suggestions you to sample:

Kensho

An upscale vegetarian restaurant in the heart of Palermo offering four course organic meals, and vegan, celiac and raw options in a chic and carefully designed environment.  Chef Maximo Cabrera incorporates slow food concepts, gourmet dinning and environmental philosophy to guarantee quality, flavor and awareness about what we eat and where it comes from.

El Salvador 5783, Palermo

4778-0655

Tue-Sun Lunch and dinner.

Casa Felix

Casa Felix is a private restaurant part of Colectivo Felix, an interesting eco-gastronomic project that aims to promote local cultures and support small scale and eco-food producers through their cooking tours, research and restaurant.  The restaurant, open a few months of the year serves a five-course pescetarian meal (which you can request to be vegetarian or vegan) featuring original flavors and spices from their research on their travels across the country. Access to the restaurant is through reservation only.

Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 9.30pm

4555-1882

info@colectivofelix.com

Bio

Bio was the first organic vegetarian restaurant to open in Buenos Aires in 2002. Their menu offers a variety of flavorful dishes for breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner, providing meals made from products which prize health and flavor.

Humboldt 2199, Palermo

4774-3880

Mon- Sun  9am-1am

La Abuela Pan

Homemade fresh vegetarian food in a recycled old house in San.  They serve a special Sunday lunch menu making it a good place to go to if you’re visiting the antique fair.

Bolivar 707, San Telmo

4361-4936

Mon-Fri Lunch

Sun- 9am-4pm

ap@abuelapan.com

Siempre Verde

This Chinese vegetarian restaurant in the local Chinatown is very popular for its well-priced tasty, well-prepared and filling dishes. Although the decor doesn’t say much and the service is somewhat sloppy, it’s definitely one of the local vegetarian favorites proven by its usually full house. We recommend the mushroom meat, made from shitake, and specifying that they bring the entrees and main courses separately if you want it them that way.

Arribeños 2127, Belgrano

155 454 6481

Tue-Sun Lunch and Dinner

Cash only

Other options are Veggie´s (Las Cañitas) , Krishna (Palermo), Naturaleza Sabia (San Telmo, open on Sundays for lunch), La Radiancia (Palermo, recommeded), Granix (Bufet in Microcentro), Meraviglia (Palermo, recommeded), Artemisa (Palermo, recommended)