This Week: 28 Apr-4 May

There’s plenty going on for culture vultures over the next seven days: highlights include the annual Book Fair and a photography exhibition by legendary rock ‘n roll snapper Bob Gruen at a hip restaurant.

Monday

Via Miami University

Via Miami University

It’s already in full swing but be sure to get down to the Fería del Libro for the largest book fair in the whole of Latin America. Celebrating its big 4-0 anniversary this year, From talks to presentations and book signings, one of today’s highlights is Un viaje por el Martín Fierro: “Martín Fierro interactivo that will cover everything you ever wanted to know about poet José Hernández and his gaucho hero, as organised by the National Library. 2pm-10pm, until May 12, La Rural, Plaza Italia. Entry $25, $40 at the weekend.

And of course, those in need of a fabulous feed should book at One Table – five course, five wine pairings, one chef – our very own Hernán Gipponi. Tel: 3220-6820. Reservation only.

Tuesday

Via Hype

Via Hype

There’s an all-star international cast of DJs at Hype at Kika tonight with a strong contingent from neighbouring Brazil. Wrong Bazz joins Hype regulars Matt Ashley and Fabricio Ruiz for a full-on night of electro, dubstep, hip hop, trap. moombahton, drum&bass and house. From midnight, Honduras 5539, Palermo Soho.

Wednesday

Via Rey de Copas

Via Rey de Copas

One Soho bar worth checking out for a Humpday cocktail is Rey de Copas. They just launched their winter drinks list *yesterday* so get down to this hot spot, filled with trombones and Moroccan-style cushioned booths and low tables for something refreshing. Gorriti 5156, Palermo Soho. Tel: 2068-5220.

Thursday

Via Taringa

Via Taringa

Turned on by cute cupolas and fancy façades? Make a beeline for the Balvanera neighbourhood, which is home to two stunning buildings both designed by Eduardo Rodriguez Ortega. La Casa de los Lirios is a residential building with a façade reminiscent of Gaudí, while the other has a stunning cupola with an insignia in Catalan that says no hi ha somnis imposibles (“there are no impossible dreams”). Don’t miss the chance to stop and admire these two examples of gorgeous local architecture. La Casa de los Lirios, Av. Rivadavia 2027 and the cupola, Av. Rivadavia 2009.

Friday

Via Gargola

Via Gargola

There’s a very cool and temporary exhibition at Gargola Salón Privado, which is hosting photographs by legendary rock ‘n roll snapper Bob Gruen, best known for his images of The Beatles as well as John and Yoko. Access is via a dinner reservation  – the menu changes regularly – but this is a rare artistic treat in Buenos Aires. Tel: 4972-1161, Colegiales.

Weekend

Via Pick Up The Fork

Via Pick Up The Fork

Busy day busting up your credit card in Palermo? Make a well-deserved pitstop at Pehache’s café. This concept store stocks gorgeous home wares and textiles – avert your eyes and power through to the back where the cake and the coffee awaits on the gorgeous patio. Gurruchaga 1418, Palermo Soho.

SAVE THE DATE

Via arteBA Fundación

Via arteBA Fundación

Coming up at the end of May is arteBA, a veritable artistic extravaganza that makes it the biggest contemporary art fair in Latin America. May 23-26, La Rural.

 

 

Guest Blogger: Paige Nichols’ Porteño Promenade

Slip on your comfiest shoes: dog mom Paige Nichols is sharing a porteño promenade with you.

 

Whether you’ve been in the city for just a few hours or a whole lifetime, it’s no secret that Buenos Aires is a treasure trove of gems, ripe for discovery. With 203.3 possible square kilometers to cover, it’s not necessarily a task for the faint of heart. Subways, buses, taxis, and trains crawl across the landscape, and we’re quick to forget about the sprawling green spaces and palm trees, impressive architecture, and the beautiful plazas that liven up this concrete jungle.

 

WalkMap

 

Rather than suffer through a taxi ride delayed by the inevitable traffic jam, why not put those feet to good use and hoof it across town, taking in the sights, sounds and smells along the way?

 

After much reliance on (and love for) BA’s public transportation system, I’ve become absolutely spoiled by working within walking distance of my apartment. Now, it just feels easier to walk most places, especially if the weather’s fine and I’m not in a rush. Add this to the fact that I’ve always preferred to get to know a city by tracing its streets and avenues on foot, and you’ve got a recipe for urban adventure.

 

One of my favorite strolls takes you through the corridor around Avenidas Libertador and Alcorta, from Palermo down to Retiro. It’s here that you’ll be able to take in the beauty of BA while avoiding those pesky narrow sidewalks that plague the city’s claustrophobic downtown.

Botanical Garden

Botanical Garden

We’ll start in Plaza Italia, not because it’s particularly lovely (it is not), but because it’s a hop away from the city’s Botanical Garden. Here you’ll meander among more than 5,000 species of plants and trees, not to mention the sculptures and semi-feral cats. The gardens are a fitting microcosm of Buenos Aires: beautiful, captivating, and inviting, but lacking regular maintenance, which leaves things a little rough around the edges.

 

Once you’ve had our fill of the verdant surroundings, walk down Avenida Las Heras to República Árabe de Siria, which runs behind the city’s zoo. This pocket of Palermo is filled with tree-lined streets, trendy cafés, and one of my favorite Italian restaurants, Bella Italia. Turn down Boulevard Cerviño for a slice of the good life; neighbors linger over coffee and cakes while their pampered pooches snooze on the sidewalks.

 

From here, turn left on Salguero and head toward Avenida Figueroa Alcorta. Pass in front of the always-popular MALBA (don’t miss the Mario Testino: In Your Face exhibit if you’re here before 16 June) and give yourself time for delusions of grandeur by looping through the exclusive Barrio Parque neighborhood situated just behind the museum.

 

Croque Madame

Croque Madame

By now you’ve worked up an appetite, or at least the desire to rest your feet and indulge in some people watching. Turn up Tagle and pray there’s an outdoor table with your name on it at Croque Madame, located on the grounds of the Museum of Decorative Arts (another jewel worth a visit). Sip on a glass of white wine and recharge those pilas at this little urban oasis; though the place is nearly always packed, the atmosphere is always laid back and relaxed.

Croque Madame

Croque Madame

Continue down Avenida del Libertador, stopping into the Musem of Fine Arts if you’re keen. The permanent collection houses works by Argentine masters Berni and Eduardo Mac Entyre, not to mention impressive exhibitions featuring greats such as Caravaggio and Botero. Once you’ve met your culture quota, cross up through Plaza Francia and Plaza Alvear, home to the popular weekend feria next to the Recoleta Cemetery.

 

For the home stretch, we’re going to take in some serious opulence. Avenida Alvear, where everything just oozes luxury, is the pinnacle of Buenos Aires’s mistaken Parisian identity. From the boutiques (Hermes is still standing, while Cartier and Ralph Lauren shuttered, following economic uncertainty) to the apartment buildings, every inch of this avenue is pristine. Elegant grandes dames stroll through the lobby of the Alvear Palace Hotel; its signature scent wafts through the air and nearly puts you in a trance. Head next door to the Galería Promenade and give your credit card a workout by picking up some art deco jewels or handcrafted silver masterpieces in one of the tiny shops tucked away.

Palacio Duhau-Park Hyatt Buenos Aires

Palacio Duhau-Park Hyatt Buenos Aires

 

With your treasures in tow, reward yourself with a break for tea at the Palacio Duhau. The palace, originally built by railway executive Alejandro Hume, was occupied by the prominent Duhau family until 1976 and took on its new identity as the Park Hyatt in 2006. Its garden is unmatched, a refuge providing total peace and quiet in a subdued and impeccable setting.

 

Florería Atlántico

Florería Atlántico

 

From here, breeze past the old boys’ den at the Jockey Club and turn onto Arroyo, where art galleries line the curved street and toy poodles head out for an afternoon walk. Pop into Florería Atlántico, one of the newcomers that’s boosted what I like to call the Retiro Renaissance, and pick up some blooms and a bottle of wine for good measure. Make a mental note to return after dark for dinner and drinks at its underground cantina tucked behind a cleverly hidden door.

 

Kavanagh

Before your stroll comes to a close, walk just a few blocks more to Plaza San Martín. One of the city’s most prominent, it teems with activity on any given sunny afternoon. The Edificio Kavanagh – built out of spite in 1934 by Corina Kavanagh in order to block the Anchorena family’s view of the Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento – and the Palacio San Martín (where the Anchorenas used to reside) are two of BA’s most iconic buildings and can be enjoyed in unison from this vantage point.

 

After a splendid 5.8 kilometers, it’s time to head back to home base. Hail a taxi this time, not only have you earned it, but your tootsies will thank you.

 

Addresses:

Botanical Gardens – Av. Santa Fe 3951

Bella Italia – República Árabe de Siria 3285 / tel: 4802-4253

MALBA – Av. Pres. Figueroa Alcorta 3415

Croque Madame – Av. del Libertador 1902 / tel: 4806-8639

Museum of Decorative Arts – Av. del Libertador 1902

Museum of Fine Arts – Av. del Liberator 1473

Galería Promenade – Av. Alvear 1883

Palacio Duhau – Av. Alvear 1661 / tel: 5171-1234

Florería Atlántico – Arroyo 872

 

BioPhoto_PaigePaige Nichols, 27, spends her days working in digital communication and strategy, and her nights eating and drinking her way across the city. Originally from Washington, DC, she relocated to Buenos Aires in 2008. You can follow her adventures on Instagram at @lapanza. 

This Week: 21-28 April

Monday

Via BASA

Via BASA

Long weekend? Longer week ahead? One bar that’s open on the barman’s day of rest is BASA. Head downtown and snap up the Moscow Mule (photo) – head bartender Ludo makes the ginger beer in house. Happy hour from 7pm. BASA Basement Bar, Basavilbaso 1328, Retiro.

Via Jocelyn Mandryk

Via Jocelyn Mandryk

And at HG Restaurant, it’s the final night of our special Malbec-paired dinner in tribute to Malbec World Day. Check out our Facebook page for menu details, as there are some surprises – white Malbec, anyone?

Tuesday

Via Shop Hop BA

Via Shop Hop BA

Need to get your winter wardrobe fixed up? Allow cool hunter and stylist Sophie Lloyd from Shop Hop BA to lend an expert hand. Her bespoke shopping tours suit all budgets and styles – and can take in tango fashion to lovely leathers and appointment-only showrooms.

Wednesday

Via Cocina Sunae

Via Cocina Sunae

Southeast ASian restaurant Cocina Sunae recently started to open its doors on Wednesday nights. Avoid the weekend rush and treat yourself to a mid-week spice kick you won’t regret. For a real bang, order a ginger kamikaze.

Thursday

Courtesy of Club 69

Courtesy of Club 69

In what has become the autumn mid-week party of the moment, go and get High on the Roof in Recoleta at Primafila.  Expect a beautiful crowd starting the weekend early with these early-evening rooftop sessions that ends at 1am. Entrance is free but by list only, so stop by for supper before shaking off the calories on the outdoor terrace. Once you’re done but still need to groove, head to Palermo classic Club 69 for funk, break-dancing and drag acts.

Friday

Via Jocelyn Mandryk

Via Jocelyn Mandryk

We’ve got one word for you: TFIF! Our happy hour in the gorgeous back garden puts in its monthly appearance so it’s time to Thank Fierro It’s Friday. With cocktails by guest bartender Fede Cuco and tunes from Buddha Beats, start your weekend right with some hot tapas from Hernán Gipponi’s master hands, cool drinks and pumping tunes. From 6.30pm, Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood.

Weekend

Via Ursa

Via Ursa

A fashion and art combo is on at one of our fave galleries on Saturday as Galeria Mar Dulce hosts a pop-up clothing sale with Ursa. US designer and artist Elizabeth Gleeson brings her sustainable knitwear – much of it produced by a women’s group in a Buenos Aires slum – to Palermo. Think loose-knit cardigans in bright and breezy colours that are perfect for the coming winter months. From 3pm. Uriarte 1490, Palermo Soho.

Via Graffiti Mundo

Via Graffiti Mundo

Every Sunday, Graffiti Mundo runs a bike tour to check out some street art hotspots around the city. Get your pedal on and bring your artist’s eye to the three-to-four hour tour around Palermo and check out works such as this rather appropriate stencil by Cabaio.

 

Easter 2014 in Buenos Aires

With just the one feriado holiday this Easter in Argentina – Friday 18 April –  it’s a long weekend for everyone nonetheless. If you’re not escaping to Mar del Plata for a little last-ditch beach action, here are some ideas on how to spend Semana Santa in Buenos Aires.

Fish on Friday.. and Saturday… and Sunday

Via Gastronomique

Via Gastronomique

Take up the tradition of a fish diet this Easter and head to a typical Spanish restaurant for the experience. El Casal in San Telmo is a perfect example, down to the colourful tiles on the walls. The fried squid rings are some of the best in the city, while other fishy hits are the seafood grill and Bacalao a la llaunaChacabuco 863, San Telmo. Tel: 4361-0191.

 Open your art

Via BA City government

Via BA City government

 

A bank holiday is a perfect time to check out a museum or gallery that’s been on your radar. Dip into some religious art at Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco, and enjoy being in Microcentro while no one else is around. Note, this museum will be closed on Friday  along with with all the city’s other museums, but open over the rest of the weekend. 
Suipacha 1422, Microcentro. Tel: 4327-0272/0228.

 

Religious experience

Via Catedral Primada

Via Catedral Primada

Have you heard? The Pope’s from Flores! So why not head to the start of the D line and Catedral for a mass that’s bound to be packed with Francis fans. The Catedral Primada de Buenos Aires, whose founding dates back to 1605, was the current pope’s last place of work, and thanks to its central location on Plaza de Mayo, it’s seen anything and everything go on over the past 400 years.  Mass, prayers and confessions  will be held over the next four days until Sunday culminating in a service at 11.30am on Easter Sunday. For a complete schedule. check here.

Kids’ play

Via Smeterling

Via Smeterling

If you can’t find an Easter egg hunt, why not make up your hunt – after decorating some eggs? Smeterling Patisserie has come up with a fun kit that will keep busy hands occupied with glitter and feathers on hard-boiled eggs before the real fun begins. The most experiences hand might like to try out the Chef Kit, which includes two moulds for making a choccie egg. Uruguay 1308, Recoleta. Tel: 5294-6070.

Drink the red stuff – and the white stuff

Via Jocelyn Mandryk

Via Jocelyn Mandryk

This year World Malbec Day has fallen on Maunday Thursday and so instead of drinking strictly from the chalice, book into our special Malbec paired dinner at Hernán Gipponi Restaurant. Every one of the six courses is paired with a different kind of Malbec, from a white one to Grappa!. Until 21 April. Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood. Tel: 3220-6820.

And finally: Happy Easter from everyone at the Fierro Hotel!

This Week April 14-20

Monday

Via Jocelyn Mandryk

Via Jocelyn Mandryk

It’s Día del Gourmet (Gourmet Day) today so we’d encourage you to take advantage of the final day of BA Food Week and drop by Hernán Gipponi Restaurant for dinner. Instead of the usual One Table dining experience, our doors are open with the special three-course dinner menu. Failing that, why not treat yourself to something tasty and gourmand from one of these places. Tuesday

Via FS BA

Via FS BA

If you’ve little time to check out the sport of kings, this might be the next best thing. Inspired by polo, Pony Line at the Four Seasons is scoring plenty of goals, thanks to its fabulous cocktails, artisan beers and delicious bar snacks. Smart and sophisticated, you’ll want to stay until the end of the chukkas. Posadas 1086, Recoleta. Wednesday

Courtesy of Usted Está Aquí Experience

Courtesy of Usted Está Aquí Experience

Following its glorious success in 2013, Usted Está Aquí, the interactive theater experience by directors Natalia Chami and Romina Bulacio Sak is back for its second season. Without spoiling the plot, prepare for the unexpected as you’re transported to different towns, cities, countries and situations as you rove around the Tardis-like Konex, accompanied by a huge cast. Fun and fantastic. Four shows, from 8pm, Ciudad Cultural Konex, Sarmiento 3131, Almagro. 100 pesos. Thursday

Via Malbec World Day

Via Malbec World Day

Today is Malbec World Day! How will you be celebrating? At the Fierro we’ll be offering a tasting menu paired with every single type of Malbec possible, including a white one and a sparkler! More info, coming soon on Facebook!

Via Pick Up The Fork

Via Pablo Sánchez

Got a yen for some real beer? Check out the closed-door Bröeders craft beer night. Two Argentine brothers brew up a storm in Palermo and you get to sample three different pints. Book a communal table with friends or keep it intimate with a table for two. You’ll also be food with some delicious treats by the NOLA chef Liza Puglia, so expect some southern spice and flavour. We love the fried chicken!

 Friday
Courtesy of Malba

Courtesy of Malba

In what is likely to be the photographic exhibition of 2014 in BA, be sure to check out Mario Testino’s In Your Face at the Malba. The Peruvian photographer has snapped some of the world’d good and great in his time. This is his first and very long overdue Buenos Aires show. Malba, Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Palermo. Until June 16. Weekend We’d like to wish all our friends and readers a very happy and peaceful Easter this Sunday. If you’re feeling in the mood to be spoilt this East Sunday, we’ll be updating with you the best brunches and lunches in town. Happy Easter!

Guest Blogger: Julián Díaz’s Villa Crespo Top 5

Julián Díaz, owner of 878 bar in Villa Crespo, shares his favourite places in that neighbourhood. 

Via Pick Up The Fork

Via Pick Up The Fork

La Crespo is easily the serving up the best pastrami in Argentina! Homemade, made the legitimate and traditional Jewish way. I like to have lunch there during the week, plus, dangerously, it’s only two blocks away form 878! Thames 612.
Via Guía Oleo

Via Guía Oleo

Angelín has to be the one place that I’ve eaten at the most times in my life. Ever since I was little, I’ve always gone with my parents to eat a muzzarella pizza, an humita (corn) friend empanada and then finish up with the ricotta and dulce de leche cake. Always at the bar, always with a dry greeting from Raúl. Córdoba 5270.
Via Planeta Joy

Via Planeta Joy

Malvón  is an excellent bakery and cake shop. It acts as our second office, thanks to the many meetings and afternoons working spent there. The farmhouse bread, toasted, and I’m infatuated with the dulce de leche alfajor. Serrano 789.
Via 2 Backpackers

Via 2 Backpackers

A bastion for Middle Eastern immigrants, Sarkis is the one place where peace has finally been established and people share the same roof on a corner that seems to have existed ever since Villa Crespo was founded. I hold Sarkis close to my heart because that’s where I used to go for those first dinners with Flor, my partner, some 13 years ago, back when we dreamt of opening 878. Thames 1101.
Via Cuchillería Villa Crespo

Via Cuchillería Villa Crespo

Cuchillería Villa Crespo is one of the best cutler’s stores in the city, selling excellent products and has an even better workshop. Very discreet, very local but full of top-quality knives and swords. Scalabrini Ortiz 197 and Camargo.
Via Santiago Ciuffo

Via Santiago Ciuffo

Julián Díaz is 32 and been a  gourmand for  13 años. He owns two bars, 878 and Florería Atlántico. He writes about the cocktail scene for El Gourmet magazine and talks about gastronomy on Gente Sexy on Rock & Pop 95.9FM. He’s a member of the Asociación Argentina de Sommeliers and Acelga. He also writes short and ridiculous things (his words) on Twitter – @diazdejulian

 

This Week: 7-14 April

Food Week is still going strong – what’s been your favourite restaurant so far? – while Argentina’s most legendary DJ is back in Buenos Aires for one night only. Plus a brand new exhibition in Palermo Soho. The next seven days in BA…

Monday

Via BASA

Via BASA

Long weekend? Longer week ahead? One bar that’s open on the barman’s day of rest is BASA. Head downtown and snap up the Moscow Mule (photo) – head bartender Ludo makes the ginger beer in house. Happy hour from 7pm. BASA Basement Bar, Basavilbaso 1328, Retiro.

Monday also sees our One Table dining event take place! Now taking reservations for 21 April.

Tuesday

Via Mass Media

Via Mass Media

Galería Foster Catena has just unveiled a brand-new exhibition by Elisa Strada called “Modelo para armar”. Works focus on painting and silk-screen printing on metal sheets and paper, inspired by urban demonstrations. Honduras 4882, first floor, Palermo Soho. Tuesdays to Saturday, 1pm to 7.30pm. Until 30 April.

Wednesday

Via Bar du Marché

Via Bar du Marché

What day of the week is it? Hump day, clearly, so given that Malbec World Day is creeping ever closer (17 April, grape fans), why not have a tipple at Hollywood wine bar Bar du Marché? With more than 50 wines by the glass, you’ll surely find the wine of your dreams, even if it’s just for one night. Nicaragua 5946, Palermo Hollywood.

Thursday

170498_10150174746119832_316518774831_8542859_7227510_o

There’s still a few more days to take advantage of the 40 restaurants under the Buenos Aires Food Week promo, and our very own Hernán Gipponi is one of them! Lunch is a snip at 140 pesos while dinner weighs in at 220 pesos. Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood. Reservations: 3220-6820.

Friday

Via Park Hyatt

Via Park Hyatt

There’s another epic wine tasting event on the cards tonight as we continue the run-up to Malbec World Day. Tonight, the Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt hosts a food and wine pairing fit for the gods in a stunning setting. Alvear 1661, Recoleta. 7pm. Reservations: 5171-1204.

Via Windish Agency

Via Windish Agency

And if electronic music is more your thing, Argentina’s most legendary DJ, Hernán Cattaneo, is back in town for one night. Catch him bringing the house down with his beats at State tonight. State, Alsina 940, Monserrat. Tickets here.

Weekend

There’s more Malbec mayhem on Saturday when Bodegas de Argentina sets up workshops and tasting all around Buenos Aires. Well-known wineries participating include Bianchi, Alfredo Roca, Luigi Bosca, Tapiz, Nieto Senetiner, Norton, Rutini, El Esteco, Trapiche, Casarena, Las Perdices, Sophenia, Secreto Patagónico and Vistalba. Free, but please contribute with non-perishable goods. In Spanish. For the full schedule, go here.

Via Manu Padilla

Via Manu Padilla

Plus PM Open Air Music holds its final outdoor session of the summer. it’s sure to be a cracker – dancing, in the day, by the river! – so check their Facebook for more info.