This Week: 26 May-1 June

Monday

Rusia Gallery via arteBA

Rusia Gallery via arteBA

There’s just one more day – today! – to get down to La Rural to check out the 23rd edition of arteBA. This year, photography has its own section – Photobooth – for the first time while other notable elements include U-TURN masterminded by Spanish curator Agustin Pérez Rubio. 90 pesos. Final day. La Rural, Plaza Italia.

Tuesday

Via Pain & Vin

Via Pain & Vin

 

Turn a glass of vino into something way more exciting and drop by Pain & Vin wine bar. This Palermo store-café-tasting room has a great selection from boutique Argentine producers, plus they speak great English to help you get the most from your choice. Take a Malbec home for later, or crack it open there and then. Gorriti 5132, Palermo Soho.

 

Wednesday

Courtesy of Usted Está Aquí Experience

Courtesy of Usted Está Aquí Experience

 

Following its glorious success in 2013, Usted Está Aquí, the interactive theater experience created by directors Natalia Chami and Romina Bulacio Sak is back for its second season. Without spoiling the plot, prepare for the unexpected as you’re transported to different towns, cities, countries and situations as you rove around the Tardis-like Konex, accompanied by a huge cast. Fun and fantastic. Four shows, 8pm, 8.30pm, 9pm, 9.30pm, also Sundays, Ciudad Cultural Konex, Sarmiento 3131, Almagro. 100 pesos.

 

Thursday

Via Masquecine

Via Masquecine

Did you know you can catch movies for free on Thursdays? The audiovisual district, better known as the north side of Palermo Hollywood, is screening once a week at El Dorrego. The month of May has been all about renowned director Pablo Trapero (he also directed Carancho) and today you can see Familia Rodante (2004). 7.30pm, Zapiola 50, Colegiales. Free.  

 

Friday

Via Foto-Ruta

Via Foto-Ruta

 

Feeling snap happy? Or simply want to improve your iPhone photo skills? FotoRuta‘s workshops let visitors (and residents!) take in Buenos Aires in a creative way, focusing on a particular theme in a certain neighbourhood. Check their site for more details.

 

Weekend

Via Bebop

Via Bebop

Nothing like some late-night blues to soothe the soul and The Honey Horns are here to do just that. The female brass trios comprising Paloma Sneh on tenor sax, Vanesa Harbek on trumpet and Marybeth Almendros on trombone, will get toes tapping and fingers clicking. Bebop Club, Moreno 364, Monserrat.

Guest Bloger: Ashlei Rodgers

Ashlei Rodgers shares her favorite porteño brunch spots for the budget-conscious.

Via Conexion Brando

Via Conexion Brando

Oh, the marvels of waking up on a Sunday morning after a late night of partying and having both breakfast and lunch at the same time. Al final Buenos Aires has finally gotten the memo that BRUNCH (breakfast + lunch) is AMAZING. In the past few years restaurants in BA have started serving American-style brunch with all the fixins including pancakes, waffles, French toast served with hot maple syrup (a delicious condiment that is hard to find in most grocery stores in BA). Not to mention, eggs served whichever way your foodie heart desires (frito, revuelto, poached, boiled, omelet) and of course some deliciously crispy bacon. Just writing this blog post is making my mouth water. As a gift from me to you, here is a list of the top 5 brunch spots in Buenos Aires. You can thank me later.

Via Aayudame

Via Aayudame

1. Café Crespin

I like to consider this place a little hidden gem in Villa Crespo. It’s not fancy on the inside but what it lacks in décor, it definitely makes up in the food. There are tons of options, large portion sizes and if you go with friends there is something for everyone. I personally enjoyed the French toast. The bread tasted like it was fresh out of the oven, which is hard to say for a lot of restaurants. The staff is friendly and they don’t give off the vibe that you need to hurry up and eat because others are waiting for the table. I guarantee your first visit will not be your last. (Calle Vera, 699, Villa Crespo

Via Pick Up The Fork

Via Pick Up The Fork

2. Oui Oui 

This is a super cute café in Palermo Hollywood. Let’s just say their food is so good that they had to build another location half a block away to meet the demand. The menu is affordable and brunch is served every day! Yes you read that correctly EVERY DAY you can order your brunch favorites until 8pm at night. So if you have a random craving for mouth-watering bacon with pancakes on a Wednesday afternoon, you must come here. The décor of both locations is charming with a shabby/chic Parisian theme. The coffee is delicious and pairs perfectly with their scrumptious baked goods that are prepared fresh every morning.  Here is some cheap advice, if you go after 7pm you can snag some fresh muffins, croissants, cookies, pan au chocolat for 50% off. Which is perfect for a budget-conscious foodie like myself. Nicaragua 6068, Palermo Hollywood.

Via My Beautiful Air

Via My Beautiful Air

3. Malvón 

This little NYC-styled café is known for its incredible selection of fresh baked breads. If you love a great Lox Bagel this is your place. There is a special brunch menu on the weekends and the menu offers little bit of everything. I highly suggest getting there early for brunch because the wait can be agonizing, especially if you are starving. Serrano 789, Villa Crespo

Via Hola From Buenos Aires

Via Hola From Buenos Aires

4. Olsen

Here’s a little history fact, Olsen is one of the first restaurants in Buenos Aires to serve brunch. Although on the pricey side you can mix and match you brunch options however you like. There are over 64 different brunch combinations and a plethora of brunch-friendly mixed drinks (i.e. bloody Mary, mimosas etc.). The place has a clean modern feel with a clientele mix of expats, Argentine hipsters and trendy foodies.  The service is a little on the slow side but if you have nothing but time on your hands, it’s not a bad place to do brunch. So if have some extra spending change and want to eat a fancy brunch with tons of options, you should eat here. Gorriti 5870, Palermo Soho.

 

Via Planeta Joy

Via Planeta Joy

5. Decata

This is a great place with a chic atmosphere. If you want to have brunch with friends on an incredible rooftop terrace or just take advantage of the strong WIFI while eating solo this is your place. The brunch menu isn’t extensive or cheap but what’s on the menu is good and the portion sizes are large. Also the coffee is strong and the pastries are worth every calorie. Honduras 6100, Palermo Hollywood.

 

381213_10100277985242233_1079091698_nAshlei Rodgers is a jetsetter, blogger, public health enthusiast, fashionista and so much more. Although she is originally from Houston, Texas, she has lived in different cities all over the world. She is currently residing in Buenos Aires, Argentina where she is blogging about her international travels and her passion for public health. Checkout her blog, Where’s Ashlei? in June to get a sneak peek into the world of a jetsetter.

 

This Week: 19-25 May

Monday

Via Polo Circo

Via Polo Circo

Blow away the Monday blues with a trip… to the circus! Buenos Aires is currently hosting the sixth Polo Circo until 25 May. From burleque to cabaret and clowns and gravity-defying tumbles. Tickets are available from Cultural San Martín at Sarmiento 1551 and Buenos Aires Polo Circo on Juan de Garay and Combate de los Pozos.  Tuesday

Via Hype

Via Hype

There’s an all-star international cast of DJs at Hype at Kika tonight with a strong musical offering from Italy. Razihel joins Hype regulars Matt Ashley and Fabricio Ruiz for a full-on night of electro, dubstep, hip hop, trap. moombahton, drum&bass and house. From midnight, Honduras 5539, Palermo Soho.

Wednesday

Via Gastronomique

Via Gastronomique

For outdoor drinking and beer on tap, check out new Recoleta pub slash campsite Camping. Although the beer list is short and sweet for the time being, they plan to start making their own brew in the near future. Log in to their WiFi and use their virtual jukebox, which is totally awesome and addictive. Pueyrredón 2501, Recoleta.   Thursday Screen Shot 2014-05-19 at 13.29.38 Did you know you can catch movies for free on Thursdays? The audiovisual district, better known as the north side of Palermo Hollywood, is screening once a week at El Dorrego. May has been all about renowned director Pablo Trapero (he also directed Carancho) and today you can see Nacido y Criado (Born and Bred). 7.30pm, Zapiola 50, Colegiales. Free.   Friday

Document Art Gallery via arteBA

Document Art Gallery via arteBA

Aesthetes will be in their element from today and for the rest of the weekend as the 23rd edition of arteBA kicks off. This year, photography has its own section – Photobooth – for the first time while other notable elements include U-TURN masterminded by Spanish curator Agustin Pérez Rubio. 90 pesos. Until May 26. La Rural, Plaza Italia. Weekend

Via Pachamama Fotos

Via Pachamama Fotos

Sunday marks 25 May, one of the most important national holidays in Argentina. It commemorates the day in which the Viceroyalty of the Rio de la Plata was overthrown and replaced by the First Assembly; one of the turning points in Argentine independence. If ever there was a time to celebrate patriotism, this is it! Festivities include typical dances in folklore peñas, and patriotic foods such as locroempanadas, and pastelitos. Que rico!

Guest Blogger: Daniel Tunnard

Author Daniel Tunnard shares some train and food spotting highlights in and around Buenos Aires.

 

As the author of Colectivaizeishon, el inglés que tomó todos los colectivos de Buenos Aires (available in most good bookshops, albeit in Spanish, so I’ve lost you there) and of The Trains Stop Here. A Survey of Railway Velocities in the Argentine Dust Cloud (not yet published, and will probably only be published in Spanish, but bear with me), I am often asked by boutique hotels in Palermo to suggest itineraries involving public transport and gourmet dining. Not a day goes by without such a request.

Via For 91 Days

Via For 91 Days

If you’ve been here a few weeks and fancy something off the beaten track and a little adventure, the city’s crumbling bus and train network offers all sorts of low-budget spills and thrills. You need a full day for this itinerary. Dress down, hold on to your belongings, and don’t let them smell your fear.   We start at the faded grandeur of Estación Once de Septiembre in Plaza Miserere. From here you will be taking one of the country’s worst trains to Moreno. Keep away from the doors, they don’t always close. Coffee and churros available from train-based ambulant vendors, shouting out their wares. Counterfeit socks and Elite tissues also available. Every man has his price.

Via Beers and Beans

Via Beers and Beans

Lunch in Mercedes At Moreno, change for Mercedes, a bargain 3 pesos for a two-hour train journey through the grassy sub-suburban spread of Greater Buenos Aires. If you’re lucky you’ll get one of the vintage silver-grey carriages – a bit like a 1960s Mercedes that has been left in a barn for the past 20 years – a missing tyre here, a broody chicken there, but still just about dependable and a darn sight more romantic than much of the new Chinese rolling stock rolling into Argentina.

Via Alejandro Machado

Via Alejandro Machado

Mercedes is a green and pleasant small town with a peaceful central square and gothic cathedral. You can relax now, you’re back with the middle classes. How they welcome you into their moneyed bosom. The best options for lunch are the gaucho-friendly Pulpería Cacho de Catarina (empanadas, gin, knife fights) or at La Vieja Esquina (charcuterie, vino patero, a nostalgic tear). Mercedes is the Peach Capital of Argentina. Eat a peach. Go on, live a little. There’s also a salame festival every September, if that’s your thing. Indeed, who doesn’t enjoy a good sausage party?   Dinner in Once

Via Pick Up The Fork

Via Pick Up The Fork

If you don’t fancy another three hours of low-quality train travel, you can get the 57 bus back to either Plaza Italia in Palermo or good old Once. By now you’ll have digested your lunchtime peaches and you’ll be looking for somewhere in Once for an early dinner and a bit of a change from all this gaucho-and-salame tourist nonsense. As if by magic, a classic Korean restaurant awaits. Combining the names of not one but two Calvin Klein scents, Bi Won (Junín 548) opens early and closes early (that means 7.30  to 10pm), making it ideal for foreign tourists shocked by the idea of dining after the sun’s gone down. Silver chopsticks, privacy screens, impeccable service.

 

2Daniel Tunnard is the author of Colectivaizeishon, el inglés que tomó todos los colectivos de Buenos Aires

This Week: 12-18 May

In the run-up to next week’s arteBA, exhibitions are opening left, right and centre. Plus, a new terrace for sipping cocktails in Palermo Soho. 

Rusia Gallery via arteBA

Rusia Gallery via arteBA

Monday Test your mettle against the quiz master at the Pub Quiz Buenos Aires tonight. This is Sam Kelly’s first as the man with all the questions (and answers) following his seamless takeover from Jonathan Evans. With three rounds of 10 general knowledge questions and one themed round of 25 questions, you’ll either be breezing through with a perfect score or scratching your head in extreme bafflement. 7.30pm for an 8pm start, La Cigale, 25 de Mayo 597 (corner of Tucumán). 15 pesos. Tuesday

Via Rey de Copas

Via Rey de Copas

Some might think it’s crazy that Rey de Copas has just opened up a brand-new terrace in time for winter, but rain or shine, hot or cold, you can still sip on a mojito all year long. Thank goodness for that! Gorriti 5176, Palermo Soho. Wednesday

Courtesy of Ninina

Courtesy of Ninina

All these grey skies getting you down? In need of an alcohol-free mid-week pick-me-up? Head to one of Palermo’s best new(ish) cafés, Ninina Bakery, which has a fabulous menu and serves the perfect caffeine injection in a no-handle cup in a beautiful open kitchen, From mouth-watering pastries and cakes to invigorating fruit juices, Ninina holds breakfast, brunch and tea in spades. We love the waffles. Gorriti 4738, Palermo Soho. Thursday

Via San Telmo Productions

Via San Telmo Productions

If you check out one film this week, get down to the Centro Cultural General San Martín to see Mujeres Con Pelotas (Goals for Girls: A Story of Women With Balls). Directed by an Argentine-American couple, the documentary shows how a group of women from the Villa 31 shantytown overcame various obstacles – and not least sexism as they were women playing football – to form the  Las Aliadas del 31 team.  Sarmiento 1551, Tribunales, Thursday and Saturday, 8pm. In Spanish with Spanish subtitles. Friday

Via Pabellón 4

Via Pabellón 4

In the run-up to arteBA, there are exhibitions a plenty going on to get the artistic juices flowing and one notable opening this week is Manuel Archain at Pabellón 4, With a background in drawings, film design and animation, his latest showing El sueño oculto de lo cotidano,is based on photography that takes everyday objects out of context, Uriarte 1332, Palermo Soho. Mon to Sat 4pm-8pm.   Weekend

Via Galeria Mar Dulce

Via Galeria Mar Dulce

One of our favourite Palermo art galleries, Galería Mar Dulce, also unveils its latest exhibition this week. WALDEINSAMKEIT (AKA the sensation of feeling alone in the forest) by Sofía Wiñazki opens today. The space specialises in small artworks so be prepared to fall in love with a pret-a-porter handbag-size piece to take home. Free fizz courtesy of Rosell Boher. From 4pm, Uriarte 1490, Palermo Soho. SAVE THE DATE! That’s right, we gave it  cheeky mention earlier in the blog but the much revered arteBA, Latin America’s largest contemporary art fair opens next week. Champagne, installations and critics galore await over the four days. 23-26 May, La Rural, Plaza Italia.

Guest Blogger: Chance Miller

Tour guide Chance Miller shares some of his favorite hidden sights unexpectedly located right off Plaza de Mayo.

Elevators in Galeria Güemes by Chance MIller

Elevators in Galeria Güemes by Chance MIller

When people ask me what Off-The-Beaten-Path locations I suggest, I tell them that they often don’t have to stroll more than two blocks from Plaza de Mayo to see all sorts of cool stuff.  And in fact, some of the places I take my clients for their OTBP Tours are right there on the Plaza. So if you have it in your day planner that you want to go see the Mothers of May at 3:30pm on Thursday, I’d suggest getting to the Plaza by about 2pm-2:15pm just to be safe, because two of the buildings my clients like most are banks.  And banks close at 3pm in Buenos Aires. Banks?  Yes, banks! Lots of Money = Really Cool Architecture . There’s also a church (you knew that there had to be a church), a former convent next door (if you get there between 12pm-2pm, you can eat lunch there), and an almost 100 year-old galeria that now offers you a bird’s eye view of the city. 1st Stop:  Memorial on the front of the Ministerio de Economia building.  

Ministerio de Economia bullet and shrapnel scars by Chance Miller

Ministerio de Economia bullet and shrapnel scars by Chance Miller

WHERE: Due south of the Casa Rosada (Hipolito Yrigoyen 250)… Left of the main entrance near the Subte A subway entrance. WHAT: A plaque commemorating the 39th Anniversary of the Bombing of Plaza de Mayo (June 16, 1955) – the military’s first coup d’etat attempt to overthrow President Juan Perón. WHY:  The façade of the building still exhibits pock marks in the granite from the airplane strafing and bombs that killed more than 300 people on that day. 2nd Stop:  Banco de la Nación Argentina is located directly catacorner (kittycorner?) from the Casa Rosada on the side with the gigantic Néstor painted on the walkway in front of it.  

 Disappeared names on Reconquista next to Banco de la Nación by Chance Miller


Disappeared names on Reconquista next to Banco de la Nación by Chance Miller

WHERE:  NorthWest of the Casa Rosada with its main entrance facing the C.R. WHAT:  A huge bank that was founded in attempt to quell the bickering between provinces over money. WHY:  Previously the location of the original Teatro Colón, when the bank was established on October 26, 1891, the bank actually used the remodeled theater until 1940. DON’T MISS:  Miniature models of both the former Teatro Colón and the current bank, the Alejandro Bustillo art gallery just past that, the massive main room of the bank (where you can sometimes see queues of 40 people or more), and the curly stair wells across from the elevators on the other three exits.  Also, there are plaques along the side on Reconquista remembering those B.N.A. employees who were disappeared during Isabelita Perón’s presidency (2-3 of the names) and the military dictatorship that followed. 3rd Stop:  Basilica de Nuestra Señor de la Merced

Interior of the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Merced by Chance Miller

Interior of the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Merced by Chance Miller

WHERE:  NorthWest corner of Reconquista & Peron (Reconquista 207) WHAT: A basilica in the middle of the banking district that is actually closed on the weekends. WHY:  The outside is nice enough, but the interior has been almost completely renovated in the last 5 years to its former Baroche greatness.  My photo is better than anything you’ll take inside the church, so just enjoy looking around, and don’t worry if you don’t get the same shot. DON’T MISS: The floors (Argentine churches have great tile floors), the altar, the “M” up in the dome.  Also, the “Convento” next door has three restaurants that service an array of tables in its courtyard. 4th Stop: Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires WHERE: Calle San Martin 137 (between Peron & Mitre), across from the Galería Güemes. WHAT:  The oldest bank in the country and second largest, it was founded on September 6, 1822 WHY:  First, once you enter and see the massive multi-colored marble inlay of the 12 Signs of the Zodiac on the floor, you’ll wonder if this is really a bank or the Kabbalah Center of Buenos Aires.  Then you’ll check out the art deco brass work to each side and know that someone has put some money into this place.  Walk through to the main room and take in the massive stained glass to your left. DON’T MISS:  The main banking in the basement.  Take the escalator down from the lobby with the Zodiac Circle and then walk past the helpful ladies into the “waiting area”.  Tell me that it doesn’t feel like you are in an airport or intercity bus terminal. 5th Stop:  Galeria Güemes

Reflexion of Art Deco Dome in the Galeria Güemes by Chance Miller

Reflexion of Art Deco Dome in the Galeria Güemes by Chance Miller

WHERE: Between Calle San Martin 150 & Florida 151. WHAT:  A one block long galeria/“shopping mall” built in the 1910s and restored in the last decade. WHY:  Awesome early art deco influences, especially in the domes in between the elevator lobbies. DON’T MISS:  The brass elevator sculptures, especially in the two toward Florida Street.  Also, a 14th floor observation deck opened up in the last year to get a difficult-to-find bird’s-eye-view of the city.   chanceChance Miller is a tour guide based in Buenos Aires since 2007.

This Week 5-12 May

Eat, drink and read – and you’ll be happy this week in Buenos Aires. Monday

Via Fería del Libro

Via Fería del Libro

The Buenos Aires Book Fair is still going strong all of this week until 12 May and weekdays are the best time to avoid the crowds,  Entry is also cheaper, at 25 pesos during the week. The biggest cultural event in the BA calendar. La Rural, Plaza Italia. Until May 12.   Tuesday

Via Gran Bar Danzón

Via Gran Bar Danzón

Need a fling with some raw fish? You’re in luck because throughout May on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, classic watering-hole and restaurant Gran Bar Danzón is putting on special sushi nights given that their chef, Gabriel Dellepiane, has just returned from a trip to Japan. Libertad 1161, Recoleta. Wednesday

Courtesy of Four Seasons

Courtesy of Four Seasons

For one of the most buzzing happy hours in town, get down to Pony Line bar in Recoleta. Lady of the musical night SRZ checks the tunes, while the superb drinks list will keep the most demanding of palates content. From 8pm. Pony Line, Posadas 1086, Recoleta. Thursday

Via Pablo Sánchez

Via Pablo Sánchez

Got a yen for some real beer? Check out the closed-door Bröeders craft beer night. Two Argentine brothers brew up a storm in Palermo and you get to sample three different types of pint. Book a communal table with friends or keep it intimate with a table for two. You’ll also be well fed with some delicious treats from the NOLA chef Liza Puglia, so expect some southern spice and flavour. We love her fried chicken! Friday For the more mature among us (that would be over 25 in the Latino city that never sleeps) a brand new party comes to Palermo. Promising the likes of an event that has never been seen before in BA, Smile Party kicks tonight at the Central Hall at La Rural. Tickets in advance. Sarmiento 2704, Palermo. Weekend

Via Graffiti Mundo

Via Graffiti Mundo

Every Sunday, Graffiti Mundo runs a bike tour to check out some street art hotspots around the city. Get your pedal on and bring your artist’s eye to the three-to-four hour tour around Palermo and check out works such as this rather appropriate stencil by Cabaio.