An Insiders Look at Where to go Tango Dancing in Buenos Aires

Whether you’ve already caught a tango show or not, since you’re in its hometown Buenos Aires, you might be feeling inspired to pick up a bit of the fancy footwork yourself. Whether you’re mal coordinated with two left feet, or you’re a natural on the dance floor, Buenos Aires has plenty of places where you can easily give the dance a go.

While stepping into a milonga  (tango ballroom) could feel intimidating, tango culture in Buenos Aires is actually incredibly friendly and open – beginners needn’t worry.

If you’re looking for a dance partner there’s no shortage of willing accomplices (particularly for women) and one on one classes are readily available at affordable prices.

For those who haven’t yet adjusted to the Argentine clock (it’s nocturnal) be prepared to hang on a little – classes are late in the evening and if you’re looking to see the pros, the action doesn’t tend to get going in milongas until well after midnight.

La Catedral

 

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A bohemian take on the traditional milonga, La Catedral is based in a disused dairy factory. The outside is fairly non-descript – you could easily walk by none the wiser of what’s going on inside. Its walls are adorned with locally created art and draped with red fairy lights. Full of tango dancers of all levels, it attracts a particularly international crowd – perfect for those making their first foray into the dance. If you’re looking to learn the basics head to one of their group classes, on from around 8 PM, (be prepared to wait a little as the place isn’t really known for punctuality). Later on performances and live music kick off from around midnight, leading on into the early hours. The kitchen is also known to be excellent with a vegetarian menu – not so common in this carnivorous capital.

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Queer Tango

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For those who hate the idea of following a stiff gender code, head to San Telmo’s Buenos Ayres Club on a Tuesday night for a LGBTQ milonga night. Turning tango on its head, and shaking up gender roles in this typically male-led dance, the night brings in dancers of all levels who aren’t afraid to challenge tradition and want to leave dated gender roles at the door. A great way to take an alternative look at the changing local scene.

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Bar Los Laureles

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One of the city’s historical bares notables, entering Bar Los Laureles is like taking a trip back in time to the 19th century. Located in Buenos Aires’ southerly Barracas neighbourhood, it’s a little out the way for most of the city, but worth the trip to see a true remaining part of Argentine heritage. Throughout the week it’s a neighbourhood watering hole but come the weekend, it transforms itself into a lively milonga.

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La Viruta

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If you’re not keen on rubbing shoulders with pro dancers and just want to give learning the basics a go, La Viruta, based in the Armenian Cultural Centre is a good place to start. You’ll find a whole mixture of tourists and locals who come here to learn – throw your fears to the side and prepare to dance. Lessons tend to take place a little earlier here, from around 6:30 PM, later on, be prepared to sit back and let those in the know take over the floor.

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Salón Canning

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An iconic Palermo haunt, Salón Canning is well known on the professional tango circuit. Dance lessons are available earlier on in the evening but by midnight the place will be packed out with the city’s finest tango dancers swirling across the venue’s polished wooden floors. If your moves don’t quite cut it, there’s always space for spectators who are welcome to sip at a drink and soak up the atmosphere.

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Buenos Aires Agenda: March/Marzo 2018

EVENTS/ EVENTOS

BAF Week 2018

PH: jasleen_kaur

BUENOS AIRES FASHION WEEK will be taking place from the 1st to the 9th of March and showing all the new fall-winter 2018 trends!

BAF WEEK se lleva a cabo la primera semana de marzo, del 1 al 9, con todas las tendencias que se vienen esta temporada de otoño-invierno 2018!

The COLÓN THEATRE kicks off with its 2018 program of operas, orchestras, experimental acts and ballet. Book tickets to any of the theatre’s shows here. 

El TEATRO COLÓN inaugura su programa de óperas, orquestas, funciones experimentales y ballet para el 2018. Las entradas se pueden adquirir aquí. 

The LOLLAPALOOZA FESTIVAL will be taking place from the 16th to the 18th of March with a line up that includes Pearl Jam, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Lana del Rey, amongst others. Find all of the upcoming rock concerts here.

FESTIVAL LOLLAPALOOZA del 16 al 18 de marzo se lleva a cabo el festival Lollapalooza en el que se presentan Pearl Jam, Red Hot Chili Peppers, y Lana del Rey entre otros. Puede encontrar una programación completa de recitales y música en vivo aquí.

UCO Restaurant

Happy Hour- UCO Restaurant

Special UCO Happy Hour Promo for InsideBA readers: Throughout March you can stop by our happy hour from 5.30-7.30pm and enjoy 2 cocktails for $180. As a gift to our readers we will be serving a complimentary empanada tapa. You will need to tell the waiter that you are a blog reader and answer the following question: what is the typical corn and bechamel empanada called? (You can find the answer here). 
 
Promo Happy Hour UCO- promo especial para lectores de insideBA: Todos los días de 17.30-19.30pm los invitamos al Happy Hour de UCO, donde pueden disfrutar de 2 tragos x $180. Durante el mes de marzo los lectores de insideBA además recibirán unas empanaditas de muzzarella, albahaca y tomates secos de cortesía. Para hacerlo, deberán decirle al camarero que son lectores del blog y responder la siguiente pregunta: ¿Qué nombre tienen las empanadas rellenas de choclo y salsa blanca? (Respuesta aquí). 

ART/ARTE

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Forced Labor by Liliana Porter/ PH: Michael Galpert

The MALBA inaugurates an photography exhibit on the 8th of March on the topic of peronism as seen through the lens of artist Sara Facio. Av. Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Palermo.

El MALBA inaugura el 8 de marzo una muestra de fotografía que retrata el peronismo a través del lente de la artista Sara Facio. Av. Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Palermo.

Until April, the MNBA fine arts museum is spotlighting women artists in a special exhibit dedicated to them and also renowned sculptor Auguste Rodin.

Hasta Abril, el MNBA pone a las artistas mujeres en foco con una muestra especial dedicada a ellas, y también continúa con la exposición del reconocido escultor, Auguste Rodin. 

FUNDACIÓN PROA is showcasing a special exhibit of Chinese artist Ai Wei Wei’s work until April.

FUNDACIÓN PROA tiene exhibición una muestra especial que finaliza en abril de la obra del artista chino Ai Wei Wei. 

 

The Origin of Empanadas

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PH: Antonio García

In Argentina, we love to say that empanadas are one of our typical dishes. This is true, but to a point, it all depends on what you mean by “typical”. Of course, “typical” in South America is sometimes difficult to define because of the strong European influence. Migration patterns after colonization were particularly particular in Argentina, so it is even more notorious here and so we have “typical” pizza, pasta, and ice-cream too, when probably you would be thinking wait, aren’t all those foods typically Italian? Yes (relatively), in fact originally that’s where we got them from, however, then each place appropriates the influx and makes it into something of its own.

When trying to trace back the origins of the famous (and delicious) empanadas, first influx in Argentina of this juicy morsel would be Spanish.  Tracing back, the Spanish might have gotten it from Arab cultures which make similar mouth-watering fatays and sfijas and kibbes. Apparently the Greeks had already imported an empanada type phyllo-dough dish called bougatsa from Constantinople as well, and in Mesopotamia, meat pies were supposed to have already been popular several hundred of years BC. In terms of prehispanic South American cultures, humitas and tamales follow a similar logic to the empanada, if one thinks of them in terms of folding and stuffing. In fact, one of the typical empanada versions we have is called humita and stuffed with corn (a prehispanic staple) and bechamel sauce. There are many more cultures with their own version of the empanada. Regardless of their origin, if you are in Argentina, make sure to try the “typical” variants, oven-baked or fried, that are common here because they certainly are delicious.

Our top 5 spots for empanadas in Buenos Aires? Find our picks here.

And, if you happen to want an evening appetizer at UCO restaurant, make sure to try our own version of tapas sized empanadas filled with mozzarella, basil, oven dried tomatoes and served with Pesto.

Avenidas de Buenos Aires: Av. Libertador

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La Avenida Libertador es una de las principales de Buenos Aires y va desde Retiro a Tigre. También es una de las avenidas más exclusivas de la ciudad por la cual además circulan menos líneas de colectivo. Tiene 30 km de largo y su nombre remite a San Martín. Desde el sur en Retiro hasta su punta norte, se puede hacer el siguiente recorrido:

1-) Recoleta

La famosa Plaza Francia en Recoleta linda con esta avenida y además tiene una excelente feria de artesanos. Cruzando la avenida está también el Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, y más adelante el Museo de Arte Decorativo.

2-) Palermo

Una serie de parques que bordean la avenida llevan al famoso Monumento a la Carta Magna y las Cuatro Regiones (más comúnmente conocido como Monumento a los Españoles) en la intersección con la Avenida Sarmiento. En esta intersección también podemos encontrar el antiguo zoológico que ahora es un ecoparque, y en otra esquina la entrada al famoso Rosedal. Un poco más adelante se encuentra el Hipódromo de Palermo antes de llegar al barrio de Belgrano.

3-) Núñez

En Núñez, justo en el límite entre capital y provincia se encuentran el Centro Cultural Haroldo Conti y Museo de la Memoria, ex ESMA. Ambos son espacios reconvertidos que durante la dictadura militar se utilizaron como centros de detención. Son lugares de interés histórico que además ofrecen muestras y exhibiciones cuyo propósito es difundir obras relacionadas a los derechos humanos.

4-) San Isidro

Ya en los suburbios los edificios pasan a ser más bajos hasta convertirse en casas y en San Isidro, la avenida lleva a la histórica Quinta de los Ombúes y a una hermosa catedral frente a un parque.

5-) Tigre

Finalmente, la avenida desemboca en el Tigre que vale la pena explorar en barco. Ofrecemos una lista de tours sugeridos aquí. 

 

Buenos Aires Avenues: Av. Libertador

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PH: Roger Schultz

Spanning from Retiro to Tigre, Av. Libertador is one of the main thoroughfares of Buenos Aires. It is also one of the more upscale Avenues in the city, and has much fewer bus lines than other avenues in BA. It is 30 km. long and is named after San Martín. From its most southern tip in Retiro to where it ends up north, here is what you will find on this emblematic avenue.

1-) Recoleta

The famous Recoleta Plaza Francia Park borders with this Avenue and has a great artisans fair. On the opposite hand is the Buenos Aires Fine Arts Museum. Also along this avenue is the stunning Museo de Arte Decorativo.

2-) Palermo

Continuing up the park lined Avenue, upon reaching Palermo, we will find the famous Monument to the Magna Carta and the Four Regions of Argentina (more commonly known as Monumento a los Españoles). At this intersection we also have the old BA Zoo, now an ecopark, on one corner, and the entrance to the renowned rose garden (Rosedal) on the other.  A little further up the road we will find the Palermo horse tracks before getting to Belgrano.

3-) Nuñez

In Nuñez, right at the border between the capital and the suburbs, is Memorial Museum and  Haroldo Conti cultural center, both which used to be a detention center during the military coup. It is a relevant historical spot with a exhibits and a lot of artistic programs aimed at bringing awareness to human rights issues.

4-) San Isidro

Once in the suburbs the high rise buildings mellow out and in San Isidro the avenue leads to the nearby historical Quinta Los Ombues and to the stunning Cathedral and park.

5-) Tigre

Finally, the avenue ends in the Tigre delta which is worthwhile exploring on a boat. You can find a list of suggested tours here.

 

3 Alternative Delta Tours

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PH: Miguel Vieira

The hot summer days are ideal for some riverside fun and the Paraná Delta in Tigre is well worth knowing. Below are our 3 picks of alternative tours in the area:

Bandoneon a Bordo: This tour company takes you out on a boat where you get to enjoy small intimate tango shows. They offer day trips, night journeys or 2-day expeditions and are perfect if you want to kick back and relax as you discover the region. 

Selknam Canoes: If you would rather try a more dynamic exploration you can take a trip with Selknam canoes and paddle in a handcrafted wooden Canadian boat through the beautiful Tigre canals. They offer two-hour day trip tours, night tours and custom made tours. 

Delta Unplugged: If you want to combine some sailing with homemade meals by a swiss chef and nutritionist, then Delta unplugged is for you. These tours are led by a couple who welcome you first to their home for a homemade breakfast and then take you out to explore the canals whilst tempting you with some more food on the way.

 

Año Nuevo en Buenos Aires 2017-18

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PH: Henar Lanchas

Con Papá Noel ya camino al Polo Norte,  hay que empezar a organizar los festejos para despedir al 2017 y darle la bienvenida al 2018.

En Fierro  ofrecemos la opción de celebrar con una cena especial de Año Nuevo en UCO restaurante en la que brindamos un menú degustación con maridaje de vinos argentinos. Además, cuando el clima acompaña, el jardín es ideal para celebrar eventos festivos. Recomendamos reservar con anticipación. Soler 5862, Palermo. Tel:  011 3220-6820

Sugerimos a aquellos huéspedes que no se queden a celebrar la Año Nuevo en UCO que se aseguren de reservar con anticipación y de organizar el transporte de antemano. El 31 a la noche suele haber muy poco transporte, y por eso recomendamos que busquen opciones cerca del hotel, o que coordinen con tiempo y estén preparados a pagar tarifas más altas.

El 31 por supuesto vamos a estar ofreciendo nuestro desayuno especial de Año Nuevo. Como es feriado nacional, la mayoría de los locales estarán cerrados, pero si sale el sol y no hace demasiado calor, es un buen momento para ir a conocer los hermosos parques de la ciudad. Y si las temperaturas son muy altas, siempre existe la opción de disfrutar un coctel y refrescarse en la piscina del hotel.

Para quienes quieran bailar toda la noche, recomendamos mirar las sugerencias de la agenda www.vuenosairez.com para conocer las fiestas que se llevarán a cabo en la ciudad. Sino, siempre pueden consultar con el Front Desk de Fierro donde sabrán darle orientación para recibir el 2018 de la mejor manera posible.