This Weekend: Buenos Aires for Bookworms and Foodies


PH: Floris van Halm

Buenos Aires is known for its literary heritage and in the last ten years has developed a gourmet cuisine scene that has also become one of its attractions. This weekend both combine at Feria Leer y Comer (Read and Eat Fair) where there will be food trucks, book sales, signings and literary and culinary talks and debates from 12 to 9pm on both Saturday and Sunday. Concepción Arenal 4865, Chacarita. 


PH: Nuria Pico

Also this weekend, on Saturday night is La Noche de las Librerías (Bookshop Night) which will offer the possibility of attending poetry readings, debates, and of visiting different bookshops around the city. The event will take place from 6pm to midnight, mostly on Avenida Corrientes, and also offers some activities that non spanish speakers can also understand such as an outdoor jazz jam at 7pm at the Alfonsina Storni stand on Corrientes 1900, and an exhibit of antique book at the beautiful Palacio de Aguas Corrientes (Palace of Running Waters). Readers are also invited to buy a book published by an independent publisher and to share a picture of it on social media with the hashtag #indiebookday.

Buenos Aires Agenda: December/Diciembre



AK Rockefeller

02-11 The Contemporary Dance Festival will be taking place throughout the city. Find the full program here.

El Festival de Danza Contemporánea se lleva a cabo en distintas localidades de la ciudad. La programación entera está disponible aquí.  

03/04 During the weekend of the 3rd and 4th, stop for a bite at one of the food trucks at the Food Fest BA that will take place in La Rural. Av. Sarmiento 2704, Palermo. 

Durante el fin de semana del 3 y el 4, se lleva a cabo el Food Fest BA en La Rural donde los food trucks darán a conocer las últimas tendencias gourmet de la ciudad. Av. Sarmiento 2704, Palermo.

06-11 The Feria Internacional de Artesanías (handcrafts fair) will be taking place at La Rural and could be a good place to buy unique Christmas gifts. Av. Sarmieto 2704, Palermo

La Feria Internacional de Artesanías se lleva a cabo en La Rural y podría ser un buen lugar para comprar regalos de navidad. Av. Sarmiento 2704, Palermo

06-13 The Colón Theatre will be staging a production of Gershwin’s Porgy and Bess. Get your tickets here!

El Teatro Colón presenta una producción de la ópera Porgy and Bess de George Gershwin. Entradas aquí

17-29 The Colón Theatre wraps up the year with a special production of the ballet Giselle. Tickets here.

Para cerrar el año, el Teatro Colón trae el ballet Giselle a su escenario. Entradas aquí.  

We will be posting Christmas and New Year updates closer to date. Find information about the holiday season in Buenos Aires here.

Publicaremos actualizaciones con respecto a las fiestas más cerca de la fecha. Puede encontrar más información con respecto a la celebración de Navidad y Año Nuevo aquí. 



Picasso- The Kitchen

03 –The last Gallery  Day event of the year will be taking place in the Palermo-Villa Crespo area from 6 to 8pm.

El último Gallery Day del año se lleva a cabo en el circuito Palermo- Villa Crespo de 18 a 20 hs. 

MALBA: The MALBA museum is featuring the works of Carlos Motta and Alicia Penalba and a new exhibit from the Fadel collection. Also, its permanent collection has a new postcolonial focus and is titled “Verboamérica” . Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Palermo. 

MALBA: El MALBA continúa exhibiendo la obra de Carlos Motta y Alicia Penalba una muestra de la colección Fadel. Además. Además, el museo propone un nuevo concepto curatorial con un enfoque poscolonial de su colección permanente bajo el título “Verboamérica” . Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Palermo. 

Fundación PROA: The art foundation in La Boca is showcasing an exhibit of Kazimir Malevich’s works until the 11th. Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1929, La Boca.

Fundación PROA: La fundación de arte en La Boca tiene en exhibición una retrospectiva de la obra del artista ruso Kazimir Malevich hasta el 11 de diciembre. Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1929, La Boca.

MNBA: The Buenos Aires fine arts museums will be celebrating its 120th birthday in December and will be staging special events, specially on the 12th. It is also showcasing the works of sculptor Norberto Gómez and of Ernesto de la Cárcova Av. Libertador 1473, Palermo.

MNBA: El Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes sus 120 años en diciembre, y habrán eventos especiales durante todo el mes a modo de festejo, en especial el lunes 12 de diciembre. Además tiene en exhibición la obra del escultor Norberto Gómez y de Ernesto de la Cárcova. Av. Libertador 1473, Palermo.

MAMBA:  The Modern Art Museum of Buenos Aires is showcasing a selection of drawings by Picasso, a collection of works by Antonio Berni, and a series of 3D audiovisual concerts.

MAMBA: El Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires está exhibiendo una colección de dibujos de Picasso, una colección de Antonio Berni y una serie de conciertos audiovisuales 3D.

Argentine Cuisine, Beyond Asado

(Photo by guido_cc)

One of the most immediate associations people make with Argentina is mmm – meat! And although undoubtedly it is one of the pillars of Argentine cuisine, it is not the only delicacy on the local table. (This is not a post about dulce de leche either.)

Brazilian and Paraguayan influences are ever present in Misiones, a province to the north-east of the country (where the Iguazú Falls are). There, one of the most common ingredients used is cassava from which they bake bread, cakes and make meat stuffed rolls. Many desserts are also made from papaya.

Corn, peppers, quinoa and chayote (a fruit similar to squash) are all part of the cooking repertoire up in Salta and Tucuman, which are also the empanada epicenters of the country!

Further south in the Patagonia region, local specialties include trout, lamb, smoked boar and cheese, as well as delicious boysenberries and raspberries. There is also a typical indigenous dish called curanto in which the food is cooked by wrapping it in tinfoil (originally leaves) and burying it in the ground with hot embers and stones.

In Buenos Aires, many restaurants are aiming at incorporating some of these lesser-known local culinary traditions into the gourmet gastronomic scene. Casa Felix is a self-defined “supper house” that opens several months a year to offer unique Latin American dining experiences. El Baqueano specializes unusual and native meats including ñandú, chinchilla, yacare and more.  Hernán Gipponi also fuses Latin ingredients, such as quinoa and chayote, with Spanish cuisine. And to top it off, there are always great wines to match!

Fierro Loves Hollywood: Cafés

Café culture is a porteño trademark, and the many gorgeous traditional cafés that are scattered around the city are proof that locals have thrived on cafecitos and medialunas ever since BA´s founding days. During the last few years, a new type of café has sprung offering a wider variety of pastries inspired by French and North American cuisine. In Palermo, cafés pop up every day, offering from scrambled eggs and bacon for a potent way to start the day, to the more understated and local caffeine and sugar combinations.

Best Coffee

Café Montenegro serves Lavazza coffee, and many a foreigner chooses this lovely spot at the corner of Soler and Arevalo because quality java is a guarantee. Arévalo and Soler, Palermo Hollywood.  4040.3783.

The Italian style In Bocca al Lupo café offers top-notch coffee and also delicious sandwiches, nutella filled croissants, and all in a spacey luminous setting complete with an outdoor patio.  Bonpland 1965, Palermo. 4774-3692.

Yummy cakes and Palermitan cozy feel

There is an overwhelming amount of cafés in the Palermo area, and the type that features flowery streamers and rustic atmospheres are the most popular. The most renowned and for good reason are the pioneer Oui Oui, Voltaire (lovely lighting and outdoor seating), Porota (passion fruit muffins!), and Pani ( famous for its sweet potato jam cheesecake). Of course, there are many others and if there’s one you’ve found that missed the list, please share with us!

Bookworm Heaven

Sipping on coffee and reading is the perfect match and Eterna Cadencia, our favorite neighborhood bookstore has tapped into this and also has a gorgeous café with natural light coming in from the rooftop windows. Honduras 5574, Palermo. 4774-4100.


For those who want a real porteño experience then stopping by El Bar del Gallego is a must. This corner café belongs to Don Emilio, who despite being offered millions for his prized location sticks to his guns and continues serving the local classics, as well as the bars specialty- a baguette with prociutto, cheese and butter. The bar will soon be moving to the opposite corner and so will be closed during the first fortnight of November. Bonpland 1703, Palermo Hollywood. 4771-1526.

Coming Up: Chef Mun + Hernán Gipponi Flavor Feast

Renowned chefs Hernán Gipponi and Mun Kim will be pairing up in the following days to present a tasting menu inspired by both their culinary influences from both the East and West.  The event will take place on the 26th and 27th of June at Fierro Hotel‘s restaurant.

The menu will feature a medley of dishes, by each of the chefs.  Hernán Gipponi will break the ice with his signature Madryn prawns and Chef Mun will follow with a Brandsen Salad. Then, for the main course, Hernán will be spoiling his guests with the catch of the day including peas, string beans, beats and fried calamari (YUM!) and to follow, Chef Mun will start with salmon and tuna nigiri, and then a Korean style rib eye (mmm!). Finally, to seal the deal, Hernán will be presenting his famous yoghurt foam with passion fruit, lychees, and roasted pumpkin seeds.

The tasting menu costs 450 pesos and will include wine pairings by Bodega Casarena, mineral water and tea or coffee. Bookings must be made in advance at 3220-6820. Soler 5862, Palermo

Mexican Tasting Menu at HG Restaurant

Mexican flavors will be making their way into HG Restaurant on Saturday evening as Mexican guest chef Antonio de Livier and our very own Hernán Gipponi join forces to cook up a colorful tasting menu full of flavor and spice.

The menu kicks off with Baja California style battered fish, white fish sashimi, sprouts and avocado mousse (paired with top of the line tequila!). Then, two starters follow including shrimp with kumato soup, cucumber and strawberries and crispy flour tortillas with pig trotters in Mexican green mortajada sauce, fried oysters, radishes and sour cream.  The main courses include catch of the day with pipían sauce, humita and fennel, creamy rabbit rice with mushrooms and leeks, and veal cheeks sous vide, Oaxaca mole, green squash, spiced carrots and watercress.  Finally, for the sweet part of the menu there will be a pre-dessert of yacaratía (an Argentine tree with an edible trunk), with blue goat cheese from Entre Ríos and sweet chili, and then a dessert of passion fruit and yoghurt with strawberry, mango and carob granita.

The tasting menu costs 290 pesos per person and includes wine parings. Book your place in advance at 3220-6820. Fierro Hotel. Soler 5862.

We Recommend: Fuudis Gourmet Tours

(Photo by Il Primo Uomo)

One of the great pleasures of travel is getting to know the cuisines of the cities we visit.  Buenos Aires has a lot to offer in that regard, and not only in the realm of stake. The last ten years have seen a boom in the city’s gourmet culinary industry and there is much to sample and savor.

Fuudis, which offers unique gourmet tours in the city, is the perfect way to get to know this delicious side of BA. Their tours, which take place on weekdays from 8.30pm to 11.30pm, include stops at various restaurants focusing on a different city neighborhood on each tour. The experience however is not only culinary, it is also a fun social event and special way to get to know the city.

Additionally, they organize thematic dinners, and this coming Wednesday, Fuudis will be celebrating their last thematic dinner of 2012.  Their green theme is inspired in the upcoming Christmas festivities. The menu they will be offering is available here and places must be booked by today at the latest at

More information on Fuudis and gourmet tours here.