This Weekend: Buenos Aires for Bookworms and Foodies


PH: Floris van Halm

Buenos Aires is known for its literary heritage and in the last ten years has developed a gourmet cuisine scene that has also become one of its attractions. This weekend both combine at Feria Leer y Comer (Read and Eat Fair) where there will be food trucks, book sales, signings and literary and culinary talks and debates from 12 to 9pm on both Saturday and Sunday. Concepción Arenal 4865, Chacarita. 


PH: Nuria Pico

Also this weekend, on Saturday night is La Noche de las Librerías (Bookshop Night) which will offer the possibility of attending poetry readings, debates, and of visiting different bookshops around the city. The event will take place from 6pm to midnight, mostly on Avenida Corrientes, and also offers some activities that non spanish speakers can also understand such as an outdoor jazz jam at 7pm at the Alfonsina Storni stand on Corrientes 1900, and an exhibit of antique book at the beautiful Palacio de Aguas Corrientes (Palace of Running Waters). Readers are also invited to buy a book published by an independent publisher and to share a picture of it on social media with the hashtag #indiebookday.

Buenos Aires Agenda: December/Diciembre



AK Rockefeller

02-11 The Contemporary Dance Festival will be taking place throughout the city. Find the full program here.

El Festival de Danza Contemporánea se lleva a cabo en distintas localidades de la ciudad. La programación entera está disponible aquí.  

03/04 During the weekend of the 3rd and 4th, stop for a bite at one of the food trucks at the Food Fest BA that will take place in La Rural. Av. Sarmiento 2704, Palermo. 

Durante el fin de semana del 3 y el 4, se lleva a cabo el Food Fest BA en La Rural donde los food trucks darán a conocer las últimas tendencias gourmet de la ciudad. Av. Sarmiento 2704, Palermo.

06-11 The Feria Internacional de Artesanías (handcrafts fair) will be taking place at La Rural and could be a good place to buy unique Christmas gifts. Av. Sarmieto 2704, Palermo

La Feria Internacional de Artesanías se lleva a cabo en La Rural y podría ser un buen lugar para comprar regalos de navidad. Av. Sarmiento 2704, Palermo

06-13 The Colón Theatre will be staging a production of Gershwin’s Porgy and Bess. Get your tickets here!

El Teatro Colón presenta una producción de la ópera Porgy and Bess de George Gershwin. Entradas aquí

17-29 The Colón Theatre wraps up the year with a special production of the ballet Giselle. Tickets here.

Para cerrar el año, el Teatro Colón trae el ballet Giselle a su escenario. Entradas aquí.  

We will be posting Christmas and New Year updates closer to date. Find information about the holiday season in Buenos Aires here.

Publicaremos actualizaciones con respecto a las fiestas más cerca de la fecha. Puede encontrar más información con respecto a la celebración de Navidad y Año Nuevo aquí. 



Picasso- The Kitchen

03 –The last Gallery  Day event of the year will be taking place in the Palermo-Villa Crespo area from 6 to 8pm.

El último Gallery Day del año se lleva a cabo en el circuito Palermo- Villa Crespo de 18 a 20 hs. 

MALBA: The MALBA museum is featuring the works of Carlos Motta and Alicia Penalba and a new exhibit from the Fadel collection. Also, its permanent collection has a new postcolonial focus and is titled “Verboamérica” . Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Palermo. 

MALBA: El MALBA continúa exhibiendo la obra de Carlos Motta y Alicia Penalba una muestra de la colección Fadel. Además. Además, el museo propone un nuevo concepto curatorial con un enfoque poscolonial de su colección permanente bajo el título “Verboamérica” . Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Palermo. 

Fundación PROA: The art foundation in La Boca is showcasing an exhibit of Kazimir Malevich’s works until the 11th. Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1929, La Boca.

Fundación PROA: La fundación de arte en La Boca tiene en exhibición una retrospectiva de la obra del artista ruso Kazimir Malevich hasta el 11 de diciembre. Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1929, La Boca.

MNBA: The Buenos Aires fine arts museums will be celebrating its 120th birthday in December and will be staging special events, specially on the 12th. It is also showcasing the works of sculptor Norberto Gómez and of Ernesto de la Cárcova Av. Libertador 1473, Palermo.

MNBA: El Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes sus 120 años en diciembre, y habrán eventos especiales durante todo el mes a modo de festejo, en especial el lunes 12 de diciembre. Además tiene en exhibición la obra del escultor Norberto Gómez y de Ernesto de la Cárcova. Av. Libertador 1473, Palermo.

MAMBA:  The Modern Art Museum of Buenos Aires is showcasing a selection of drawings by Picasso, a collection of works by Antonio Berni, and a series of 3D audiovisual concerts.

MAMBA: El Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires está exhibiendo una colección de dibujos de Picasso, una colección de Antonio Berni y una serie de conciertos audiovisuales 3D.

Argentine Cuisine, Beyond Asado

(Photo by guido_cc)

One of the most immediate associations people make with Argentina is mmm – meat! And although undoubtedly it is one of the pillars of Argentine cuisine, it is not the only delicacy on the local table. (This is not a post about dulce de leche either.)

Brazilian and Paraguayan influences are ever present in Misiones, a province to the north-east of the country (where the Iguazú Falls are). There, one of the most common ingredients used is cassava from which they bake bread, cakes and make meat stuffed rolls. Many desserts are also made from papaya.

Corn, peppers, quinoa and chayote (a fruit similar to squash) are all part of the cooking repertoire up in Salta and Tucuman, which are also the empanada epicenters of the country!

Further south in the Patagonia region, local specialties include trout, lamb, smoked boar and cheese, as well as delicious boysenberries and raspberries. There is also a typical indigenous dish called curanto in which the food is cooked by wrapping it in tinfoil (originally leaves) and burying it in the ground with hot embers and stones.

In Buenos Aires, many restaurants are aiming at incorporating some of these lesser-known local culinary traditions into the gourmet gastronomic scene. Casa Felix is a self-defined “supper house” that opens several months a year to offer unique Latin American dining experiences. El Baqueano specializes unusual and native meats including ñandú, chinchilla, yacare and more.  Hernán Gipponi also fuses Latin ingredients, such as quinoa and chayote, with Spanish cuisine. And to top it off, there are always great wines to match!

Fierro Loves Hollywood: Cafés

Café culture is a porteño trademark, and the many gorgeous traditional cafés that are scattered around the city are proof that locals have thrived on cafecitos and medialunas ever since BA´s founding days. During the last few years, a new type of café has sprung offering a wider variety of pastries inspired by French and North American cuisine. In Palermo, cafés pop up every day, offering from scrambled eggs and bacon for a potent way to start the day, to the more understated and local caffeine and sugar combinations.

Best Coffee

Café Montenegro serves Lavazza coffee, and many a foreigner chooses this lovely spot at the corner of Soler and Arevalo because quality java is a guarantee. Arévalo and Soler, Palermo Hollywood.  4040.3783.

The Italian style In Bocca al Lupo café offers top-notch coffee and also delicious sandwiches, nutella filled croissants, and all in a spacey luminous setting complete with an outdoor patio.  Bonpland 1965, Palermo. 4774-3692.

Yummy cakes and Palermitan cozy feel

There is an overwhelming amount of cafés in the Palermo area, and the type that features flowery streamers and rustic atmospheres are the most popular. The most renowned and for good reason are the pioneer Oui Oui, Voltaire (lovely lighting and outdoor seating), Porota (passion fruit muffins!), and Pani ( famous for its sweet potato jam cheesecake). Of course, there are many others and if there’s one you’ve found that missed the list, please share with us!

Bookworm Heaven

Sipping on coffee and reading is the perfect match and Eterna Cadencia, our favorite neighborhood bookstore has tapped into this and also has a gorgeous café with natural light coming in from the rooftop windows. Honduras 5574, Palermo. 4774-4100.


For those who want a real porteño experience then stopping by El Bar del Gallego is a must. This corner café belongs to Don Emilio, who despite being offered millions for his prized location sticks to his guns and continues serving the local classics, as well as the bars specialty- a baguette with prociutto, cheese and butter. The bar will soon be moving to the opposite corner and so will be closed during the first fortnight of November. Bonpland 1703, Palermo Hollywood. 4771-1526.

Coming Up: Chef Mun + Hernán Gipponi Flavor Feast

Renowned chefs Hernán Gipponi and Mun Kim will be pairing up in the following days to present a tasting menu inspired by both their culinary influences from both the East and West.  The event will take place on the 26th and 27th of June at Fierro Hotel‘s restaurant.

The menu will feature a medley of dishes, by each of the chefs.  Hernán Gipponi will break the ice with his signature Madryn prawns and Chef Mun will follow with a Brandsen Salad. Then, for the main course, Hernán will be spoiling his guests with the catch of the day including peas, string beans, beats and fried calamari (YUM!) and to follow, Chef Mun will start with salmon and tuna nigiri, and then a Korean style rib eye (mmm!). Finally, to seal the deal, Hernán will be presenting his famous yoghurt foam with passion fruit, lychees, and roasted pumpkin seeds.

The tasting menu costs 450 pesos and will include wine pairings by Bodega Casarena, mineral water and tea or coffee. Bookings must be made in advance at 3220-6820. Soler 5862, Palermo

Mexican Tasting Menu at HG Restaurant

Mexican flavors will be making their way into HG Restaurant on Saturday evening as Mexican guest chef Antonio de Livier and our very own Hernán Gipponi join forces to cook up a colorful tasting menu full of flavor and spice.

The menu kicks off with Baja California style battered fish, white fish sashimi, sprouts and avocado mousse (paired with top of the line tequila!). Then, two starters follow including shrimp with kumato soup, cucumber and strawberries and crispy flour tortillas with pig trotters in Mexican green mortajada sauce, fried oysters, radishes and sour cream.  The main courses include catch of the day with pipían sauce, humita and fennel, creamy rabbit rice with mushrooms and leeks, and veal cheeks sous vide, Oaxaca mole, green squash, spiced carrots and watercress.  Finally, for the sweet part of the menu there will be a pre-dessert of yacaratía (an Argentine tree with an edible trunk), with blue goat cheese from Entre Ríos and sweet chili, and then a dessert of passion fruit and yoghurt with strawberry, mango and carob granita.

The tasting menu costs 290 pesos per person and includes wine parings. Book your place in advance at 3220-6820. Fierro Hotel. Soler 5862.

We Recommend: Fuudis Gourmet Tours

(Photo by Il Primo Uomo)

One of the great pleasures of travel is getting to know the cuisines of the cities we visit.  Buenos Aires has a lot to offer in that regard, and not only in the realm of stake. The last ten years have seen a boom in the city’s gourmet culinary industry and there is much to sample and savor.

Fuudis, which offers unique gourmet tours in the city, is the perfect way to get to know this delicious side of BA. Their tours, which take place on weekdays from 8.30pm to 11.30pm, include stops at various restaurants focusing on a different city neighborhood on each tour. The experience however is not only culinary, it is also a fun social event and special way to get to know the city.

Additionally, they organize thematic dinners, and this coming Wednesday, Fuudis will be celebrating their last thematic dinner of 2012.  Their green theme is inspired in the upcoming Christmas festivities. The menu they will be offering is available here and places must be booked by today at the latest at

More information on Fuudis and gourmet tours here.

November in Buenos Aires

(Photo by Tanoka)


The month kicks off with the very special GAJO culinary event at Hernán Gipponi Restaurant. GAJO is a deluxe culinary team made up of the city`s top chefs (including Hernán Gipponi) who combine their talents and local ingredients to deliver the best of fine dining at different venues around the city. Soler 5862, Palermo. 3220-6800.

Celebrate the Day of the Dead, Mexican style at Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco where a special alter with calavaeritas in honor of Carlos Fuentes, Carlos Loiseau “Caloi”, Chavela Vargas and Astor Piazzolla will be displayed.  The event, on Friday the 2nd of November, will include traditional dances from Argentina and Mexico and more.

Noche de los Museos (Museum Night): On the 10th of November the city museums will remain open way past their bedtime and will offer guided tours, live music, shows and more.

Buenos Aires Open Air Market will take place on the 24th and the 25th of November at Barrancas de Belgrano, offering fresh organic produce and more!


Maquinaria Festival: Marilyn Manson, The Prodigy, and Deftones are just a few of the names that will be participating in the Maquinaria Festival that will take place from the 8th-10th of November at Estadio Malvinas Argentinas. Tickets here.

Creamfields 2012: The most awaited electronic party of the year will take place on the 10th of November at the Autodromo de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires. This year’s lineup includes Richie Hawtin, Sven Vath, Infected Mushroom and Paul Van Dyk amongst others. Tickets here.

Buenos Aires Jazz: Spring and Jazz festivals go together like cafe con leche y medialunas, and from the 21st to the 26th of November both will be available around city cafes and stages!

International Live Acts

Robert Plant- 1st and 2nd of November. Estadio Luna Park.  Tickets here.

Lady Gaga -16th of November. Estadio River Plate. Tickets here.

Slash and Black Label Society- 17th of November. Estadio Malvinas Argentinas. Tickets here.

Manu Chao- 17th of November, Balneario Municipal San Pedro. Tickets here.

Pulp- 21st of November. Estadio Luna Park. Tickets here.


The Bienal de Imagen en Movimiento (Audiovisual Biennial) takes place until the 4th of November featuring a variety of experimental works by local and international artists at the Centro Cultural San Martin and the Allianza Francesa. Find the full program here.

A Caravaggio exhibit is taking place at the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (National Fine Arts Museum) until the 15th of December. Av. Libertador 1473, Recoleta.

The Fundación PROA in La Boca is showcasing a must-see exhibit of renowned artist Alberto Giacometti’s sculptures and paintings. Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1929, La Boca.

At the MALBA Brazilian artist Beatriz Milhazes exhibition Panamericano can be visited until the 7th of December. From the 15th of November it is also possible to visit Tracey Emin’s exhibit How it Feels. Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Recoleta. 4808-6500.

At the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo (MNAD) there is a showcase of Oriental art which will take place until the 11th of November. Av.del Libertador 1902, Recoleta. 4801-8248.

The National Library in Palermo (a landmark in itself) is showcasing an exhibit on local rock legend Luis Alberto Spinetta. Aguero 2502, Palermo.

GAJO, Innovative Argentine Cuisine

GAJO, which stands for Gastronomia Argentina Joven (Young Argentine Gastronomy), is a group of thirteen young and renowned Argentine chefs who have joined forces to create a new national cuisine.  One of the methods for this is looking high and low for truly local ingredients from around the country, and incorporating them into their elaborate and delectable tasting menus, which they offer at GAJO events in different city restaurants.

The chef´s involved in GAJO are Hernán Gipponi (Hernán Gipponi Restaurant), Matías Kyriasis (Paraje Arévalo and Casa Arévalo),Soledad Nardelli(Chila Buenos Aires Cuisine), Hernán Griccini (Mansión Algodón), Fernando Hara and Yago Márquez (Unik), Rodrigo Castilla (Las Pizarras); Gonzalo Aramburu (Aramburu), Juan Pedro Rastellino (Allium Catering), Antonio Soriano (Astor), Darío Gualtieri (Casa Umare), Juan Gaffuri (Four Seasons Hotel) and Martín Baquero (El Almacén de los Milagros).

Tomorrow, to kick off November, Fierro Hotel’s Hernán Gipponi Restaurant, will be hosting Cocina Origen, the third GAJO dinner, in which the talented chefs will team up to present six mouthwatering dishes. Renowned guest chef Beatriz Chomnalez will be directing the team.

The tasting menu costs 90 USD or 430 pesos. Proceeds from the event will go to “Cocina para integrar”, a project in which cooking and other aspects of the culinary industry are taught in the slums as a way of creating new opportunities. Reservations can be made at 3220 6820. Fierro Hotel is located on Soler 5862 in Palermo.

Buenos Aires Culinary Week

(Photo by wallyg)

Starting tomorrow, Buenos Aires Culinary Week will bring new recipes, delicious food and restaurant discounts to the porteño palate.

The event, which will take place at different venues around the city until the 12th of October will include live cooking classes by celebrity chefs, a photography contest, a special gala and promotional prices at bars and restaurants.

Live cooking classes

5th of October at 4pm- Osvaldo Gross at Barrancas de Belgrano.

6th of October at 4pm- Guillermo Busquiazo at Av. Infanta Isabel and Av. Iraola in Palermo.

7th of October at 4pm- Soledad Nardelli at Av. Infanta Isabel and Av. Iraola in Palermo.

8th of October at 4pm- Dolli Irigoyen at Plaza de Mayo (Rivadavia and Reconquista.)

Other Events

9th and 11th of October at 7pm- Porteño Drinks Class by José Luis Jáuregui. ISEHG- Tucumán 1610, Downtown. Book your place at

9th of October at 7pm- Photography contest at Foto Club Buenos Aires– Hipólito Yrigoyen 834, downtown. Book your place at

10th of October at 6.30pm- Gala at the Museo Fernández Blanco– Suipacha 1422, downtown. Book your place at

10th of October at 7pm- Special pastry class by the Mexican Pastry Tournament winners. ISEHG- Tucumán 1610, Downtown. Book your place at

12th of October at 6.30pm- Award ceremony for photography contest. AHRCC- Tucumán 1610, downtown. Book your place at

12th of October at 7pm- Coffee tasting event at ISEHG– Tucumán 1610, Downtown. Book your place at

There will also be a series of specialized classes for chefs and culinary professionals. The full program is available here.

All events are free of charge and those specified above require a previous booking to participate. The list of restaurants and bars offering promotions and discounts is available here.