Easter 2014 in Buenos Aires

With just the one feriado holiday this Easter in Argentina – Friday 18 April –  it’s a long weekend for everyone nonetheless. If you’re not escaping to Mar del Plata for a little last-ditch beach action, here are some ideas on how to spend Semana Santa in Buenos Aires.

Fish on Friday.. and Saturday… and Sunday

Via Gastronomique

Via Gastronomique

Take up the tradition of a fish diet this Easter and head to a typical Spanish restaurant for the experience. El Casal in San Telmo is a perfect example, down to the colourful tiles on the walls. The fried squid rings are some of the best in the city, while other fishy hits are the seafood grill and Bacalao a la llaunaChacabuco 863, San Telmo. Tel: 4361-0191.

 Open your art

Via BA City government

Via BA City government


A bank holiday is a perfect time to check out a museum or gallery that’s been on your radar. Dip into some religious art at Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco, and enjoy being in Microcentro while no one else is around. Note, this museum will be closed on Friday  along with with all the city’s other museums, but open over the rest of the weekend. 
Suipacha 1422, Microcentro. Tel: 4327-0272/0228.


Religious experience

Via Catedral Primada

Via Catedral Primada

Have you heard? The Pope’s from Flores! So why not head to the start of the D line and Catedral for a mass that’s bound to be packed with Francis fans. The Catedral Primada de Buenos Aires, whose founding dates back to 1605, was the current pope’s last place of work, and thanks to its central location on Plaza de Mayo, it’s seen anything and everything go on over the past 400 years.  Mass, prayers and confessions  will be held over the next four days until Sunday culminating in a service at 11.30am on Easter Sunday. For a complete schedule. check here.

Kids’ play

Via Smeterling

Via Smeterling

If you can’t find an Easter egg hunt, why not make up your hunt – after decorating some eggs? Smeterling Patisserie has come up with a fun kit that will keep busy hands occupied with glitter and feathers on hard-boiled eggs before the real fun begins. The most experiences hand might like to try out the Chef Kit, which includes two moulds for making a choccie egg. Uruguay 1308, Recoleta. Tel: 5294-6070.

Drink the red stuff – and the white stuff

Via Jocelyn Mandryk

Via Jocelyn Mandryk

This year World Malbec Day has fallen on Maunday Thursday and so instead of drinking strictly from the chalice, book into our special Malbec paired dinner at Hernán Gipponi Restaurant. Every one of the six courses is paired with a different kind of Malbec, from a white one to Grappa!. Until 21 April. Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood. Tel: 3220-6820.

And finally: Happy Easter from everyone at the Fierro Hotel!

Guest blog: Jocelyn Mandryk’s Buenos Aires

Photographer Jocelyn Mandryk shares her mix ‘n match tips – your wardrobe can complement your cocktail.

Buenos Aires is a cosmopolitan culture hub of expression; a place where dogs wear onesies, everyone goes by their nickname, and couture can be anything from faux fur to Roberto Cavalli. But when and how to dress while visiting the city that only sleeps during the day? Climate and company are worthy considerations, but I say veto these factors and dress for your cocktail… as in, the one that’s currently in your hand. Here are my favorite liquid BA indulgences and how they fit with your closet.

Hot damn, that Negroni is upstaging me.

Hot damn, that Negroni is upstaging me.

Negroni To offset the ruby red flamboyance of anything made with Campari, both women and men should stick to neutral tones such as beige, off-white, terracotta, or my personal fave, warm greys. You can let yourself go with a shiny pair of shoes to bolster this look. For virgins to the Negroni, this cocktail packs a punch, so your wardrobe doesn’t need to. Be natural, let your skin tone do the talking – guaranteed, your drink will do the rest.

Best places to get one in Buenos Aires: Negroni, Milion, Mundo Bizarro

Don't be bashful with Mary

Don’t be bashful with Mary

Bloody Mary
It’s all about the florals and patterns – this is not a subtle drink, people. It’s Sunday morning brunch at 4pm and it’s time to sober up… and then down again. Dress loud, and use a straw. Ask for extra salt ‘n peppa, and tuck a napkin into your plunging neckline. For the gentlemen, colored socks, or a Hawaiian shirt will be fine. There’s no need for sunglasses as an accessory. We all know you’ve chosen to indulge in your vices on the Day of the Lord and we’re totally cool with it. It’s no time to be bashful.
Best places to get one in Buenos Aires: Florería Atlántico, 878, Hernán Gipponi Restaurant
Fernet 'n Coke - a cocktail or a remedy?

Fernet ‘n Coke – a cocktail or a remedy?

Fernet & Coke
It’s debatable on whether we’d call this a cocktail or a remedy, but nonetheless it’s a liquid staple in Argentina, so if you find yourself drinking one out of a plastic cup or otherwise here’s what you need to wear: Leather (or pleather if you’re on a budget ). You’re not fooling anyone with this drink and an innocent white cardigan, so tap into your rebellious side and go for leather boots, pants, jacket, or even gloves if it’s chilly out. Cross your legs and try not to burp. When your tongue feels a bit numb, just point to the glass and have the bartender bring you another round. No talking necessary.
Best places to get one in Buenos Aires: Anywhere! Everywhere! But Gibraltar, La Puerta Roja and MOTT for mint-flavor Fernet and Sprite are my picks.
You're Betty Draper and everyone wants to be you

B is for Bellini and Betty Draper – and everyone wants to be you

Elegance is the name of the game and it’s time to go a bit more formal. Often served in a Champagne flute as the first drink of the evening, Bellinis should be matched with a pair of diamond studs or a tennis bracelet. For the gentlemen, this is where you wear cuff-links or a dress watch, and maybe even carry a money clip. Go with a classic tones such as black, white, navy or royal blue. You’re Betty Draper going to a polo match and everyone wants to be you – dress accordingly.
Best places to get one in Buenos Aires: Faena Hotel, Gran Bar Danzón, Doppleganger
This drink is fun-loving

This drink is fun-loving

My personal favorite first date preference – consequtive caiprinas…emphasis on the consecutive. This drink is fun-loving and relaxes the mood and conversation. Great for a hot summer’s night or a rainy one where you wish you were in Rio.
Ladies: Skinny jeans, mini skirts, or short shorts and a  brightly colored top. Pony tails, head bands, or tousled long hair pairs nicely. If you’re doing a passion fruit caipi, consider wearing some colorful earrings or lime green accents – you’ll give off a tropical vibe.
Gents: Bermudas, graphic Ts, bright colored polo shirt, maybe a V-neck if you’ve got a nice chest. Your wardrobe shouldn’t look like your trying too hard because you’re sipping on a Caipirinha – you’re already trying hard enough.
Best places to get one in Buenos Aires: Boteco do Brasil, La Fábrica de Tacos, Green Bamboo
jossPhotographer Jocelyn Mandryk is a co-owner of Foto-Ruta. Collages compiled by Jocelyn.

Buenos Aires Parties to Welcome 2014

(Photo by AMWRanes)

Porteños love to party and New Years in the city is perfect to farewell the old and welcome the new in full swing. The following are the hottest options to greet 2014 with tapping feet and brimming glasses!

DJs John Askew and Simon Patterson will be setting the beats of 2014 at Groove. Tickets here.

The largest international crowd will be at the Fiesta Piso Compartido, which reunites hostel guests, travelers and more at Club Niceto from 1.30am onwards.  Tickets here.

If wild parties in outdoor locations are your kind of thing, then head to Quilmes for the Dancing Budhas New Year Outdoor party that will be taking place from 5pm on the 31st to 5pm on the 1st. Buses to and from microcentro will be available to transport partygoers and cost 25pesos. Call 1568967691 for tickets.

At Kika club in Palermo you can also celebrate at their New Year Hype party. Honduras 5339, Palermo.

Another great option (which is, by the way, free) is to stop by Plaza Armenia in Palermo where there will be an outdoor NY party. Surrounding bars will all be open of course! Armenia 1829, Palermo.

A classic NY party hotspot is Pacha, this year (and the beginning of next!) featuring DJ Stefano Noferini. Av. Rafael Obligado 6151, Costanera.

Another popular club in the Costanera area is Mandarine, which will have DJ´s Chris Schweizer, Tomás Heredia, Marcelo Fratini and Amitacek Muska in charge of the music at their New Year Heatbeat party. Tickets here.

Crobar, in Palermo, will also be hosting a special New Year party under the name of Human club. Tickets can be purchased in advance here.

One of our favorite bars, Verne Club, which opened this year and belongs to our in-house happy hour celebrity bartender Fede Cuco, will also be celebrating the New Year with a 5 step tasting menu and music and videos from midnight onwards. Book your place in advance at 4822-0980.

And, to recover from all the heavy partying, don’t forget to book your place at Hernan Gipponi’s special New Year brunch! 3220-6820.

Christmas Eve at Hernán GIpponi Restaurant

´Tis the season to be jolly and jolly indeed it will be on Christmas Eve at Hernán GIpponi Restaurant with the festive tasting menu, specially designed for the occasion and fit for Santa himself.

The night will kick off with a selection of delicious appetizers including homemade breads; Chubut prawn; cured fish with cucumber, lentils and yoghurt; vacuum cooked veal tongue with veggies vinaigrette and a blood sausage fritter (a classic local Christmas staple) and finally humita and rabbit in philo pastry with spinach alioli.  After that, a light salad of smoked trout, pickled summer veggies, acidulated cream, leaves and sprouts will be served, followed by a starter of roasted tomatoes, crab, creamy black rice, squid, and Sbrinz cheese. The two main courses, one fish and one meat, will be catch of the day with turnip emulsion, salicornia, courgette seeds, and tomato, and apple-tree smoked steak, confit potatoes, yam chips, and criolla sauce. Argentinian cheeses, chayote, cherries and nuts will be served as a pre dessert, and finally, vanilla pear, Granny Smith apple sorbet, carob with a cardamom cloud will top off a delectable Christmas dinner. All the courses will of course be paired with top of the line Argentine wine. The cost of the menu is 1000 pesos.

This year, HG will also be featuring a children’s menu that will include salamín from Tandil and Sbrinz cheese and Vitel Thonné as appetizers, a starter of 63°C sous vide egg with potato cream, a choice of either catch of the day with creamy rice or sirloin with french fries for the main course, and finally, chocolate cake with ice cream for dessert. No wines for the kids of course! And, the cost of the children’s menu is 350 pesos.

We hope you join us in this festive treat on the 24th of December, which is when we Argies carry out the big Christmas celebration, rather than on the 25th.  Remember to book your place in advance at 3220-6820.

This Week in Buenos Aires


(Photo by Srthnow)

Today is the last chance to check out some of the great music being performed as part of the Buenos Aires International Jazz Festival! Find the full program here.

One Table, the city’s top Monday event, is the best place to start the week with glorious foods, great wines and a chance to share with lovely people. Book your place at 3220-6820.


(Photo by pittigliani2005)

Head to La Boca and stop by Fundación PROA to check out the stunning Ron Mueck exhibit! The exhibit is open from Tuesdays to Sundays from 11am to 7pm. Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1929, La Boca.

While in the area, you can also stop by the Usina del Arte where an exhibition of Catalan artist Joan Miró is being held until the 20th of December. Agustín Caffarena and Av. Pedro de Mendoza, La Boca.


(Photo by Pablo Zarate)

Drizzly grey means indoor sightseeing. Stopping by to see the stunning murals by Nazareno Orlandi at the Casa de la Cultura and the Ateneo Grand Splendid (also a great place for coffee and books) is an excellent rainy day plan.

Later on, stop by La Catedral in Almagro where you can take a tango lesson staring at 7.30 pm or 9pm. Sarmiento 4006, Almagro.


(Photo by wallyg)

One of the city’s architectural landmarks is the famous Palacio Barolo, full of references to poet Dante Alighieri. Guided tours take place from 4pm to 7pm and evening guided tours at 8.30pm include tasting of an awarded wine and a national delicacy. Av. de Mayo 1370, downtown.


(Photo by m4caque)

Take a free tour of Buenos Aires with Jonathan, an Englishman in love with the city. Tours start every day at 11am at the center of Plaza Italia by the Garibaldi monument and cover the areas of Almagro, Congress and Plaza de Mayo using local transport to get around. More information here.

Later on, stop for hotdogs and a drink at the posh Verne Cocktail Club owned by Fede Cuco, our celebrated happy hour bartender. Medrano 1475, Palermo.

Saturday and Sunday

Remember to make a reservation for Hernán Gipponi’s unique must-try brunch, served on Saturdays and Sundays! Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood. 3220-6800.  info@hgrestaurant.com.ar.

On Sunday, the Colón Theatre inaugurates their last opera of the season featuring a production of Masked Ball (Un Ballo in Maschera) by Giuseppe Verdi. Tickets here.

Fierro Loves Hollywood: Restaurants

If there is one thing Palermo Hollywood is known for, it is its great selection of restaurants! See below where to go for auteur meals, a bit of spice, or a generous portion of meat.

Award winning gourmet dining

Recently, Restaurant Magazine chose the world’s fifty best restaurants, and it just so happens that three of them are located in the Palermo Hollywood area. If fine dining is your kind of thing, then you will definitely want to stop by for lunch, brunch, or an extended tasting menu at Hernán Gipponi Restaurant which is known for its fish main courses, creamy risottos and famous yoghurt and granita dessert.  Tegui is another to offer delectable tasting menus with three appetizer options, three main courses and three desert options that change depending on chef Martín Martitegui´s latest bout of inspiration. Paraje Arevalo is a pretty corner restaurant that also offers delectable auteur dishes and 6 or 8 course tasting menus.

Exotic and foreign cuisine

The area is also abundant in options that feature exotic foreign cuisine: Green Bamboo for Vietnamese, Sudestada for Thai, Bangalore for curries in a relaxed pub like atmosphere, Bar du Marche (a French bistro with a secret closed door Japanese restaurant atop), Paru for Peruvian and Japanese fusion cuisine, and Boteco do Brazil for yummy Brazilian food. Whatever your taste or preference in spice, you’re bound to find it at one of these hot dining spots!

The Argie Staples: Pizza, pasta, and meat

And of course, no respectable Buenos Aires neighborhood can be without its carb and protein eateries and Palermo is of course no exception to the rule. For the best Italian style  pasta in the area head to Da Donato Cucina Paradiso,and to Siammo nel Forno for pizza, Morelia does grilled pizza and for asado there is the Uruguayan La Celeste or the typically Argentine El Bonpland and La Dorita de enfrente.

Palermo Hollywood also has many vegetarian restaurants. Check out the veggie list here.

Fierro Loves Hollywood: Brunch

The last fad to hit BA is brunch and it makes perfect sense in a city that parties until the early dawn that waking up late and leisurely brunching become a favorite weekend activity. Options for delectable breakfast+lunch experiences abound, and more so in Palermo, so we picked a few of our favorites in the Hollywood area.

Hernán Gipponi Restaurant: Our very own HG couldn’t go unmentioned, and is top of the top if we do say so ourselves! The restaurant´s diva-worthy brunch experience includes a tasting menu with juices, fruits, yummy medialunas, and then the trademark main courses featuring fish and meat, as well as Bloody Mary and coffee (of course!). Book your place in advance on Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays at 3220 6820. Soler 5862.

Oui Oui: This cozy café was one of the first in the area offer European-style bakery (as its French name may suggest) and is one of the most popular, not only for brunch (which includes scrambled eggs, salmon, and scrumptious pastries), but also for lemonade and cakes in the afternoon. Nicaragua 6068. 4778-9614.

Pani: Right across from Oui Oui is this similar popular spot that places an emphasis on the sweet and offers a brunch menu that features dishes with both a foreign and a local flair including its famous Martín Fierro cake made with sweet potato jam. Nicaragua 6044. 4772-6420.

Olsen: The best this Scandinavian restaurant offers is its great selection of vodkas, and so, their post-Saturday fun Bloody Mary is definitely one of the highlights, along with the garden lounge chairs, of this classic Palermo Sunday brunching spot. Food has gotten better and worse reviews over the years, and the menu includes traditional Nordic flavors such as smorgasbord with yummy toppings and typical dishes such as scrambled eggs. Gorriti 5870.  4776-7677

Artemisia: And, for the healthy, this organic restaurant offers a brunch menu full with whole wheat bread, seeds, fruits and juices bound to restore energy and radiance! Gorriti 5996. 4776.5484.