Locro

locro

(Local Locro: Chris Ford)

Every 25th of May, Argentinian locals celebrate the May Revolution in 1810 that led to the country’s independence from Spain in 1816. It is a national holiday, and for celebratory purposes, traditional food, perfect for the colder weather of autumn and winter days, is prepared for the occasion. Such is the case with locro, a thick winter slow-cooked stew rooted in the country’s often overlooked indigenous heritage.

Called ruqru in the Quechua language, this soup has white corn (hominy) and white beans as its base ingredients, and is prepared with winter vegetables such as pumpkin, carrots, potatos, sweet potatos and a variety of meats including stewing meat, pork, bacon and other variants.

A great place to join in the local 25 de Mayo celebrations and try locro is Feria de Mataderos where there will also be traditional music and dances. Otherwise, you can find a list of suggested places to eat locro here.

Todos los 25 de mayo, los argentinos celebran la Revolución de Mayo de 1810 que condujo a que el país se independizara de españa en 1816. La fecha es un feriado nacional, y, con el motivo de festejar, se preparan platos típicos, ideales para los días más frescos del otoño y el invierno. Uno de esos platos es el locro, una sopa sustanciosa que se cocina a fuego lento, y que tiene su origen en las tradiciones, a veces olvidadas, de las comunidades indígenas nativas. 

Conocida como ruqru en quechua, la sopa está hecha a base de poroto y maíz blanco, combinado con vegetales de estación tales como zapallo, zanahoria, batata y papa, y también con distintos cortes de carne vacuna y de cerdo. 

Quienes quieran probarlo y participar de otros festejos tradicionales relacionados a la fecha patria, pueden acercarse a la Feria de Mataderos. Si no, también pueden pasar a probar locro en uno de los lugares recomendados en esta lista. 

History and Art and MNBA

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The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (MNBA) in Recoleta, recently inaugurated an exhibition of Argentine artist Ariel Mlynarzewicz works. The showcase features different portraits of local historical figures that the artist painted for the bicentennial of the May independence wars. The exhibition also features a series of documentaries that show the artistic process and also, interviews that the artist carried out with historians and other renowned figures of the local culture to better understand the subjects of his works. The paintings will be on display until the 22nd of September. The museum is also showcasing an excellent exhibition of Argentine artist Pío Collivadino’s works.  Av. del Libertador 1473, Recoleta.

This Week in Buenos Aires

Monday

(Photo by TheFutureIsUnwritten)

The MALBA is showcasing a new exhibit until the 1st of July on the work of Grete Stern.  Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Recoleta. 4808-6500.

In the evening stop by La Peña del Colorado that serves traditional food and stages live shows as well as hosting folklore dances for the community.  From midnight onwards they also encourage the diners to play spontaneous guitar music. (They offer the guitars).  Güemes 3657, Palermo. 4822-1038. info@lapeniadelcolorado.com.

Tuesday

(Photo by PortalComic)

Take a private tour with Buenos Aires Historico Tours. Their guides are historians and other humanities graduates from the Buenos Aires University and they will show you a unique side of the city! 4307-8539.buenosaireshistorico@yahoo.com.ar

Polish your Spanish and make new friends at the Tuesday conversation classes organized by Bueno, Dale! Spanish School in different city bars. The hour long practice sessions are open for all levels and all one must do is show up from 7pm to 8pm with a 30-peso fee. The location of each event is announced via Facebook.

 

Wednesday

(Photo by :Antonio)

Take a walk down Pasaje Rivarola, a beautiful hidden street which appears to be stuck in time in the historical downtown area. Built in 1926 and characterized by its mirrored buildings on both sides, it is a regular location for film productions looking for an old fashioned feel. Whilst you’re there visit “La Chacarita de Los Relojes”, a small shop specializing in antique clock and watch restoration.

Later on stop by La Catedral in Almagro where you can take a tango lesson starting at 7.30 pm or 9pm. Sarmiento 4006, Almagro.

Thursday

(Photo by gdiazdeleon)

Book a special shopping tour with Creme de la Creme. Roam the vintage scene, find the perfect souvenir, get into local designers or discover the art scene in Buenos Aires.  More information here.

Book your place for one of Anuva Wine tastings and discover great Argentine wines.

Friday

(Photo by tomasfer)

Check out the newly remodeled A-line subway and stop at some of the city’s most emblematic historic landmarks including Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosada, Casa de la Cultura, Café Tortoni and 36 Billares, Congress, Las Violetas and Parque Centenario.

If you are a Beatles fan head to Boris Club de Jazz where Nube 9 will stage a live show at 10pm and interpret the White Album. Gorriti 5568, Palermo.

Saturday and Sunday

(Photo by Lumiago)

Remember to make a reservation for Hernán Gipponi’s unique must-try brunch, served on Saturdays and Sundays! Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood. 3220-6800.  info@hgrestaurant.com.ar

In the spirit of Easter go on an easter egg chocolate shopping spree at gourmet chocolateries Vassalisa in Recoleta, Tikal in Palermo, and Compañia de Chocolates in Palermo and Recoleta.  We also recommed you try the traditional rosca de pascua.

PM Open air music– Outdoor live music, art and more merge in this new Saturday event which takes place in Palermo from 2pm to 9pm. Paraguay 4905, Palermo

Don’t miss the free concert at the Colón Theatre at 11 am on Sunday. Pick up your tickets in advance! Cerrito 628, Downtown.

On Sunday The Killers will be staging a live show at GEBA. Tickets here.

Find a ten-day weather forecast here.

At the Buenos Aires Core: Av. Corrientes

Avenida Corrientes is one of the city’s most emblematic avenues and spans from Puerto Madero to the Chacarita cemetery. Known as the street that never sleeps, due to the many theatres and cafes that line it, it is full of history and local identity.

 

(Photo by ‘J’)

It’s hard to believe that the lively avenue was once a narrow dirt road, but that is how it started out in the XVIII century. When Domingo Acasssuso inaugurated the San Nicolás de Bari temple (where the obelisk is today and where the Argentine flag was first raised in Buenos Aires), the street began to acquire a greater importance and progressively expanded. It had many different names and finally settled on Corrientes in 1822 to honor the Corrientes province’s involvement in the Argentine independence.

During the early 20th century, the first theatres began to open as well as cafes and restaurants. Tango was acquiring a great popularity in the city and the Abasto area boomed with Corrientes Av. at its heart.

 

(Photo by Evandro Flores)

Today, Av. Corrientes is one of the cultural epicenters of the city where live music acts, film screenings and theatre are always on offer. The Revue and music hall are genres that have been locally accepted and their main attractions are scantily dressed feather clad vedettes (female singers and entertainers). The area is also known for its bookstores, traditional cafe’s such as La Giralda and Gato Negro, and pizza venues such as Las Cuartetas and Guerrin.

A New A Line

(Photo by casimira parabolica)

After a heartfelt last ride in the city’s antique subway wagons, the historic A line closed down during the Summer for remodeling and maintenance. Today at 8pm a modern new subway opens to the public. Although the picturesque wagons with their wooden seating, dim lights and manually operated doors will be missed, the new wagons will be air-conditioned and will once again allow tourists to stop at some of the city’s most emblematic historic landmarks including Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosada, Casa de la Cultura, Café Tortoni and 36 Billares, Congress, Las Violetas and Parque Centenario. Additionally, the stations have been intervened by some of the city’s most talented street artists including Triángulo Dorado, Martín Ron Murales, Dame, Nazza Stencil, Georgina Ciotti, Stencilland and Run Don’t Walk.

 

Into the Past at Casa del Historiador

(Photo by Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires)

La Casa del Historiador in San Telmo, known to many as casa del Virrey Liniers, is one of the city’s historical landmarks and dates back to the XVIII century. The house belonged to one of the country´s viceroys,  Santiago de Liniers, who played a key role in the reconquering of Buenos Aires after the British invasions.  It is the only remaining colonial house in the city, preserved for years as such by the Estrada publishing house.  Today, this emblem of the local history belongs to the city government and functions as a museum in which the Buenos Aires colonial period is depicted.

(Photo courtesy of La Perichona)

One of the highlights of this historical landmark is La Perichona Despensa de Comidas, a charming deli inside the house named after the Viceroy’s lover (who has a colorful story of her own). The XVIII century Andalusian patio with outdoor seating is the perfect spot to stop for a bite on a sunny day.

Venezuela 469, San Telmo. 4974-0265.  info@laperichona.com

This Week in Buenos Aires

Monday

(Photo by bogavanterojo)

Start the week off by getting a general picture of Buenos Aires with Jonathan who offers free daily walking tours that start at 11am from the Garibaldi Statue at Plaza Italia. More information here.

In the evening stop by La Peña del Colorado .This Palermo-centered peña serves traditional food and stages live shows as well as hosting folklore dances for the community.  From midnight onwards they also encourage the diners to play spontaneous guitar music. (They offer the guitars).  Güemes 3657, Palermo. 4822-1038. info@lapeniadelcolorado.com.

Tuesday

 

(Photo by t.bo79)

Stop by the new Gardel exhibit that is being showcased at the Casa de la Cultura until the 30th of April. The exhibition features the largest tango collection in the world! Av. De Mayo 575, first floor, downtown.

In the evening head to Boris Club de Jazz where Russian Red will be staging a live show starting at 10pm. Gorriti 5568, Palermo.

 

Wednesday

 

(Photo  by Celine Aussourd)

Summer is the time for outdoor sightseeing and there are some great tours by air and water that make for perfect alternatives to get to know the city in a fun and novel way.

Later on stop by La Catedral in Almagro where you can take a tango lesson staring at 7.30 pm or 9pm. Sarmiento 4006, Almagro.

Thursday

 

(Photo by vmiramontes)

Stop for a light lunch at hierbabuena in San Telmo and then check out the Margarita Paksa exhibit at the  MAMBA !  Av. San Juan 350, San Telmo.  4342-3001.

Book your place at Fierro Hotel’s Thursday wine tasting and sample some great Argentine wines, chosen by the president of the Argentine Sommelier Association Andres Rosberg and in-house Sommelier Martin Bruno. Tastings  include special tapas from Hernán Gipponi Restaurant. Soler 5862, Palermo. 3220-6800.

Friday

(Photo by ::: M @ X :::)

Book your place for the full parrilla experience with Parrilla Tour. These filling excursions, which take place in San Telmo on Fridays, will surely leave you satisfied.

In the evening stop by Fierro´s Thank Fierro its Friday Happy Hour from 6pm to 8.30 pm and then head to one of the city’s top bars such as Isabel, Frank’s Bar, Unicorn Huset or 878! Soler 5862, Palermo. 3220-6800.

Saturday and Sunday

(Photo by dlev1979)

Remember to make a reservation for Hernán Gipponi’s unique must-try brunch, served on Saturdays and Sundays! Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood. 3220-6800.  info@hgrestaurant.com.ar.

PM Open air music– Outdoor live music, art and more merge in this new Saturday event which takes place in Palermo from 2pm to 9pm. Paraguay 4905, Palermo

Find a ten-day weather forecast here and don’t forget to stop for ice cream at one of these fantastic Buenos Aires heladerias!

Long Weekend in Buenos Aires

(Photo by Pat McDonald)

Monday is a national holiday as the Battle of Vuelta de Obligado will be remembered and the “Day of National Sovereignty” celebrated. The battle was one of the most important fought by the Argentine Confederation and due to its aftermath effects, such as the adhesion of Chile and Brazil to the confederacy, and the lifting of the blockade by the French and UK, it was taken as a symbol of local autonomy.

Saturday

Hernán Gipponi’s unique must-try brunch will be served at Fierro Hotel. Book your place and indulge! Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood. 3220-6800.  info@hgrestaurant.com.ar.

The Buenos Aires Market, which offers fresh natural products, and organic produce will be taking place at the Palermo parks this weekend. The Market also offers a large selection of vegetarian meals to try on-site, and a variety of activities and entertainment.  Av. Libertador and Av. Sarmiento. Palermo.

From 10 am to 1pm the stunning Japanese Gardens will be featuring some impressive Sumo Wrestling!Av. Figueroa Alcorta and Av. Casares.

Don´t miss the last day of Argentine Ice-cream week. Check in at the AFHADYA’s facebook page where they will publish where the Saturday Ice-cream tastings will be!

The Campeonato Argentino Abierto de Polo, one of the most important polo events of the year, is in full swing with tournaments throughout on Saturday and Sunday. Tickets here.

Don’t miss the Buenos Aires Jazz Festival that will take place until the 26th of November promising for swing filled days and many an outdoor show. Find the full program here. 

Sunday

Hernán Gipponi’s unique must-try brunch will be served at Fierro Hotel. Book your place and indulge! Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood. 3220-6800.  info@hgrestaurant.com.ar.

The Buenos Aires Market, which offers fresh natural products, and organic produce will be taking place at the Palermo parks this weekend. The Market also offers a large selection of vegetarian meals to try on-site, and a variety of activities and entertainment.  Av. Libertador and Av. Sarmiento. Palermo.

A special origami exhibit will take place at the stunning Japanese Gardens on Sunday and Monday.  On Sunday afternoon there will also be a special Argentine/Japanese drum show starting at 5pm. Av. Figueroa Alcorta and Av. Casares.

The Campeonato Argentino Abierto de Polo, one of the most important polo events of the year, is in full swing with tournaments throughout on Saturday and Sunday. Tickets here.

Don’t miss the Buenos Aires Jazz Festival that will take place until the 26th of November promising for swing filled days and many an outdoor show. Find the full program here. 

Monday

A special origami exhibit will take place at the stunning Japanese Gardens on Sunday and Monday. Av. Figueroa Alcorta and Av. Casares.

Don’t miss the Buenos Aires Jazz Festival that will take place until the 26th of November promising for swing filled days and many an outdoor show. Find the full program here. 

More music will also be played at the kick-off of the two-day Buenos Aires Blues festival which will be taking place at La Trastienda in San Telmo starting at 8pm. Tickets here.

Monday’s are also the day to stop by La Peña del Colorado where tango peñas are held starting at 8.30pm. This Palermo-centered peña serves traditional food and stages live shows as well as hosting folklore dances for the community.  From midnight onwards they also encourage the diners to play spontaneous guitar music. (They offer the guitars).  Güemes 3657, Palermo. 4822-1038. info@lapeniadelcolorado.com.

Also a Monday classic, La Bomba del Tiempo, a percussion orchestra that has become one of the local musts, will be playing at the  Centro Cultural Konex Sarmiento 3131, Abasto. 4864-3200

Also, don´t miss the Tracey Emin exhibit at the MALBA, the Giacometti exhibit at the Fundación Proa, the Caravaggio exhibit at the MNBA, the Franz Ackermann exhibit at the Faena Arts Center and the Spinetta retrospective at the National Library.

Fileteado Porteño at Museo de la Ciudad

(Photo by mccopa)

The Museo de la Ciudad showcases all kinds of different aspects of Buenos Aires including permanent exhibits of city doors, toys, musical instruments, advertisements and more. Last Saturday it added a new permanent collection that features a typical porteño style of painting called Fileteado Porteño.

This typical Argentine painting style dates back to the nineteenth century when it was first used as a decoration for horse drawn carts used to transport foods. It was progressively developed as a way of advertising and because big letters were taxed, the focus was placed on elaborate ornamentation to frame smaller letters. The style also became popular amongst the tango scene and many traditional tango neighborhoods feature ornamented filetes on their walls.  It has since been used as a decoration for accordions, buses, furniture, home fronts and more. A visit to the museum is a great way to learn more about this colorful painting style, as is the Fileteado Porteño Tour. The museum is also showcasing a temporary exhibit on hats.

Museum opening hours are from Monday to Friday from 11am-7pm and on weekends from 1pm to 6pm. Tickets cost 1 peso. Defensa 219, San Telmo. 4331-9855

This Week in Buenos Aires

Monday

(Photo by tanenhaus)

The stunning Palacio de Aguas Argentinas (Palace of Running Waters) is celebrating its hundredth anniversary with a special exhibit from midday to 8pm. Riobamba 750, Downtown. 6319-1104.

In the evening stop by La Peña del Colorado where a tango peña will be held at 8.30pm. This Palermo-centered peña serves traditional food and stages live shows as well as hosting folklore dances for the community.  From midnight onwards they also encourage the diners to play spontaneous guitar music. (They offer the guitars).  Güemes 3657, Palermo. 4822-1038. info@lapeniadelcolorado.com.

Tuesday

(Photo by Concepciones Relativistas)

The Museo de Arte Decorativo is a gorgeous museum in Recoleta and it is currently showcasing a very special exhibit of Renaissance art.  We recommend you visit this architectural and artistic hotspot on a weekday as there are long lines during the weekend to see the impressive Italian paintings. Also, the museum cafe is a lovely place for a hot cup of tea and cakes.  Av.del Libertador 1902, Recoleta. 4801-8248.

The Colón Theatre will be staging a program of two one-act operas in the evening; Erwartung (Expectation) by Arnold Schönberg and Marie Pappenheim, and Hagith by Karol Szymanowski and Felix Dörmann. 22nd, 24th, 26th and 28th of July. Tickets here.

Wednesday

(Photo by Carlos Jauregui)

Comic art fans should check out the new Museo del humor that features works by Quino and Fontanarrosa, amongst others. There are also regular screenings of animation shorts.  While you’re in the area stop by the stunning ecological reserve, which is just around the corner. Av. de los Italianos 851, Puerto Madero

Unicorn Huset is the most promising new addition to the Buenos Aires night scene. On Wednesday’s their lille lordag (little Saturday) party brings trendsetters and world travelers together for some stylish upbeat fun! Open from Wednesday’s to Saturday’s from 9pm onwards. Honduras 5730, Palermo Hollywood.

 

Thursday

(Photo by jayhsiao)

Take a private tour with Buenos Aires Historico Tours. Their guides are historians and other humanities graduates from the Buenos Aires University and they will show you a unique and very informed side of the city! 4307-8539.buenosaireshistorico@yahoo.com.ar.

For a unique evening, book your place at Fierro Hotel’s Thursday wine tasting and sample some great Argentine wines, chosen by the president of the Argentine Sommelier Association Andres Rosberg and in-house Sommelier Martin Bruno. Tastings, which include special tapas from Hernán Gipponi Restaurant, cost 25 USD per person and are limited to 7 people. Soler 5862, Palermo. 3220-6800.

The Colón Theatre will be staging a program of two one-act operas in the evening; Erwartung (Expectation) by Arnold Schönberg and Marie Pappenheim, and Hagith by Karol Szymanowski and Felix Dörmann. 22nd, 24th, 26th and 28th of July. Tickets here.

Friday

(Photo by PizzadeBarr)

Book your place for the full parrilla experience with Parrilla Tour. These filling excursions, which take place in San Telmo on Fridays, will surely leave you satisfied.

In the evening explore the city’s art galleries and museums with the rest of the crowd on the monthly Gallery Nights.

Saturday and Sunday

(Photo by Roger Schultz)

Remember to make a reservation for Hernán Gipponi’s unique must-try brunch, served on Saturdays and Sundays! Soler 5862,  Palermo Hollywood.  3220-6800.  info@hgrestaurant.com.ar.

Stop by La Rural, the annual agricultural and livestock show, and get a feel for the Argentine campo, where so much of the local identity and economy has been forged. The fair takes place from the 19th to the 31st of July at La Rural. Av. Sarmiento 2704, Palermo.

The Colón Theatre will be staging a program of two one-act operas in the evening; Erwartung (Expectation) by Arnold Schönberg and Marie Pappenheim, and Hagith by Karol Szymanowski and Felix Dörmann. 22nd, 24th, 26th and 28th of July. Tickets here.

The BAFICI animation film festival kicks off on Thursday and will be showcasing great animations until Sunday at the Centro Cultural San Martin. Find the full program here.