This Weekend: Buenos Aires for Bookworms and Foodies

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PH: Floris van Halm

Buenos Aires is known for its literary heritage and in the last ten years has developed a gourmet cuisine scene that has also become one of its attractions. This weekend both combine at Feria Leer y Comer (Read and Eat Fair) where there will be food trucks, book sales, signings and literary and culinary talks and debates from 12 to 9pm on both Saturday and Sunday. Concepción Arenal 4865, Chacarita. 

libros

PH: Nuria Pico

Also this weekend, on Saturday night is La Noche de las Librerías (Bookshop Night) which will offer the possibility of attending poetry readings, debates, and of visiting different bookshops around the city. The event will take place from 6pm to midnight, mostly on Avenida Corrientes, and also offers some activities that non spanish speakers can also understand such as an outdoor jazz jam at 7pm at the Alfonsina Storni stand on Corrientes 1900, and an exhibit of antique book at the beautiful Palacio de Aguas Corrientes (Palace of Running Waters). Readers are also invited to buy a book published by an independent publisher and to share a picture of it on social media with the hashtag #indiebookday.

This Week: 9th-14th of March

Monday

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(Photo by Ministerio de la Nación Argentina)

If you’re visiting the Obelisco and strolling down Corrientes Avenue, stop by the Centro Cultural de la Cooperación which is hosting a photography exhibit about the social problematic related to last World Cup in Brazil. Av. Corrientes 1543, downtown.

In the afternoon, from 5.30pm to 7.30pm you can stop by the Fierro Hotel garden and grab a couple of cocktails at the new UCO after office event! Soler 5862, Palermo.

You can also stop by Centro Cultural Konex where famous percussion group, La Bomba del Tiempo, will be carrying out their Monday show starting at 7pm. Sarmiento 3151, Almagro.

Tuesday

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(Photo by Lee)

Take one of FotoRuta’s Street Scape tours and learn some photography tips while discovering the city from a different angle. More information here.

It’s Milonga Week in the city so check the out the schedule here, pick a time and a venue, and stop by Bolívar 466 in San Telmo from 2pm to 6pm to pick up your free tickets.

Wednesday

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(Photo by SpejoBlancoNegro)

If you’re in the Recoleta area, stop by the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes which is hosting a new exhibit featuring collages by Eduardo Stupía, texts by Ricardo Piglia and music by Luis Nacht until the 22nd of March. Av. Del Libertador 1473, Recoleta.

At 7pm, head to La Trastienda for their Brazilian Wednesday event, Miércoles Carinhosos, and dance all the way past midnight. Balcarce 460, San Telmo.

Thursday

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(Photo by Parque de la Memoria-BsAs, Argentina)

The Ciudanza festival, featuring contemporary dance performances in urban settings, kicks off until Sunday!

Later on, catch an experimental performance combining theatre and poetry at the Teatro Colón starting at 8pm. Tickets here.

Friday

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(Photo by Nathan Ludwig)

Take one of graffitimundo’s North City Tours and check out the Buenos Aires street art scene in the Colegiales and Palermo neighborhoods. The tour ends at Post Bar where you can grab an icy beer and also purchase some urban art to take back home. More information here.

At 8pm and at 9.30pm, the Planetarium will be hosting live music concerts featuring covers of The Beatles with full dome projections of the diamond filled sky. Av. Sarmiento, Palermo.

And, if the street art tour left you hungry for more color, you can head to the Life in Color: World Largest Paint Party at Mandarine Park. Tickets here.

Saturday and Sunday

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(Photo by messycupcakes)

Book your place at Fierro´s unique weekend brunch, now revamped with an Irish version as well!

The Sivory Museum, next to the  Palermo Rosedal offers free tours in English and German on Saturdays at 3pm and 5pm!Av. Infanta Isabel 555, Palermo.

On Saturday night, British DJ John Digweed will be in charge of setting the rhythm at Mandarine Park. Tickets here.

On Sunday, James Blunt will be staging a live show at the Luna Park Stadium. Tickets here.

Easter in Buenos Aires

(Photo by erix!)

Easter weekend is coming up and should prove to be an eventful festivity given the enthusiasm that the naming of the new pope brought about the Argentine people. Also, since Monday and Tuesday have been added as national holidays in memory of the soldiers in the Malvinas war, the long weekend should prove to be extra long and many a porteño will leave the city for a few days of rest.

On Good Friday expect very little to be open except restaurants, museums and cinemas. We recommend double-checking beforehand.

For those who wish to participate in the religious festivities, the Buenos Aires Via Crucis, in which the fourteen stages of the cross are reenacted, will kick off at 8.30pm at Plaza Lorea on Av. de Mayo and Luis Saenz Peña and will end at Plaza de Mayo.

On Sunday the Catedral Metropolitana will be offering a special Easter mass, and otherwise the Parroquia Madre Admirable in Retiro offers Catholic mass in English at 10am.  Afterwards, the fun part is of course hunting for Easter eggs, breaking lent, and feasting on chocolates and rosca de pascua, a traditional pastry that is prepared for the occasion. Expect restaurants (specially parrillas) to be packed so book your places in advance.

For an alternative Easter celebration, head to the city of Tandil towards the south of the Buenos Aires province, where the locals go every year to gather around the sculptures of the 14 Stations of the Cross.

Don’t forget to shop for the best Easter eggs at these tempting chocolateries!

This Week in Buenos Aires

Monday

(Photo by TheFutureIsUnwritten)

The MALBA is showcasing a new exhibit until the 1st of July on the work of Grete Stern.  Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Recoleta. 4808-6500.

In the evening stop by La Peña del Colorado that serves traditional food and stages live shows as well as hosting folklore dances for the community.  From midnight onwards they also encourage the diners to play spontaneous guitar music. (They offer the guitars).  Güemes 3657, Palermo. 4822-1038. info@lapeniadelcolorado.com.

Tuesday

(Photo by PortalComic)

Take a private tour with Buenos Aires Historico Tours. Their guides are historians and other humanities graduates from the Buenos Aires University and they will show you a unique side of the city! 4307-8539.buenosaireshistorico@yahoo.com.ar

Polish your Spanish and make new friends at the Tuesday conversation classes organized by Bueno, Dale! Spanish School in different city bars. The hour long practice sessions are open for all levels and all one must do is show up from 7pm to 8pm with a 30-peso fee. The location of each event is announced via Facebook.

 

Wednesday

(Photo by :Antonio)

Take a walk down Pasaje Rivarola, a beautiful hidden street which appears to be stuck in time in the historical downtown area. Built in 1926 and characterized by its mirrored buildings on both sides, it is a regular location for film productions looking for an old fashioned feel. Whilst you’re there visit “La Chacarita de Los Relojes”, a small shop specializing in antique clock and watch restoration.

Later on stop by La Catedral in Almagro where you can take a tango lesson starting at 7.30 pm or 9pm. Sarmiento 4006, Almagro.

Thursday

(Photo by gdiazdeleon)

Book a special shopping tour with Creme de la Creme. Roam the vintage scene, find the perfect souvenir, get into local designers or discover the art scene in Buenos Aires.  More information here.

Book your place for one of Anuva Wine tastings and discover great Argentine wines.

Friday

(Photo by tomasfer)

Check out the newly remodeled A-line subway and stop at some of the city’s most emblematic historic landmarks including Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosada, Casa de la Cultura, Café Tortoni and 36 Billares, Congress, Las Violetas and Parque Centenario.

If you are a Beatles fan head to Boris Club de Jazz where Nube 9 will stage a live show at 10pm and interpret the White Album. Gorriti 5568, Palermo.

Saturday and Sunday

(Photo by Lumiago)

Remember to make a reservation for Hernán Gipponi’s unique must-try brunch, served on Saturdays and Sundays! Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood. 3220-6800.  info@hgrestaurant.com.ar

In the spirit of Easter go on an easter egg chocolate shopping spree at gourmet chocolateries Vassalisa in Recoleta, Tikal in Palermo, and Compañia de Chocolates in Palermo and Recoleta.  We also recommed you try the traditional rosca de pascua.

PM Open air music– Outdoor live music, art and more merge in this new Saturday event which takes place in Palermo from 2pm to 9pm. Paraguay 4905, Palermo

Don’t miss the free concert at the Colón Theatre at 11 am on Sunday. Pick up your tickets in advance! Cerrito 628, Downtown.

On Sunday The Killers will be staging a live show at GEBA. Tickets here.

Find a ten-day weather forecast here.

Grete Stern at the MALBA

(Photo by TheFutureIsUnwritten)

The MALBA is showcasing a new exhibit until the 1st of July on the work of Grete Stern.  The German/Argentine photographer began her prolific career in Berlin during the 30’s but the combination of living under the Nazi regime and meeting her Argentine husband led her to migrate first to London and then to Buenos Aires where she finally made her home.

In Buenos Aires she worked for different magazines including SUR and Idilio, a publication on psychoanalysis.  Whilst in Idilio, Stern produced a series of photomontages depicting the dreams that readers sent in to be analyzed. The oneiric images from this period are the protagonists of the exhibition.

The MALBA opens from midday to 8pm and is closed on Tuesdays.  On Wednesdays, the ticket is half price and the museum opens until 9pm.  Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Recoleta. 4808-6500.

St Patrick’s Day in Buenos Aires

(Photo by Sunfell)

Buenos Aires is known for its party lifestyle and throughout the years it has incorporated more and more international festivities, including one of the most popular, St. Patrick’s Day. With the 5th largest Irish community in the world and the jolly nature of the celebration, it’s no wonder. If you want to join the rest of the leprechauns with a frothy pint this weekend then check out the following St Paddy’s day parties and events:

Celtic Festival: Saturday 16th of March- 7:30pm. The Celtic festival will feature an exhibit and fair with everything Irish and Scottish on display. There will also be live bands, and typical Irish dances.  Virrey Loreto 2348, Belgrano.

St. Patrick’s Day Pub Crawl 16th of March- 9pm. The pub crawl costs $150 (pesos), and includes free wine and beer from 9-10pm, pizzas, a stop at three different bars with a free shooter at each, discounts on drinks and a last stop at a nightclub. Book your place in advance here.

St. Patrick’s Parade: 17th of March – 5pm. will take off at Arroyo and Suipacha, downtown, at 7pm, ending at Plaza San Martín. The parade will include traditional Irish music and dancing and a fairy and leprechaun costume contest.

Meanwhile, Reconquista Street in Retiro is the traditional city spot for St. Patrick’s Day feasting.  If you head in this direction, expect large crowds, a super street party and lively heavy drinking!

A full list of pubs that will be participating with special promotions, Guinness and more is available here.

This Week in Buenos Aires

Monday

(Photo by Sebastián-Dario)

Start the week by paying a visit to the Museo Carlos Gardel and learn everything there is to know about the famous tango legend. Jean Jaures 735, Abasto. 4964-2015.

In the evening don’t miss out on La Bomba del Tiempo, a percussion orchestra that has become one of the local absolute musts.  For some great post dancing pizza, head to nearby Los Cocos and order a fugazetta pizza, an onion and mozzarella local specialty. Los Cocos- Córdoba, Av. 3303, Almagro

Tuesday

 

(Photo by scrambldmeggs)

Villa O Campo, located in San Isidro on the outskirts of Buenos Aires, brought together renowned twentieth century intellectuals and authors. Tours of the home and gardens are offered from Thursday to Sunday and afterwards some tea and scones are mandatory. 

In the evening, stop by Florería Atlántico for drinks, dinner and a lovely time. Arroyo 872, Retiro. 6761-2908

 

Wednesday

 

(Photo by melvelez)

Explore the Tres de Febrero parks in Palermo. Between Av. Libertador and Lugones, and extending from Av. Casares in Palermo to La Pampa in Belgrano, this group of parks is composed of 25ha made up of 15 public parks and 21 private sport clubs and includes the “Rosedal”, an extensive rose garden, the Sivori Museum, the Planetarium and the Japanese Gardens.

In the evening, the hip Palermo Shanghai Dragon hosts happy hour and a weekly beerlingual bilingual pub quizAráoz 1199, Palermo

Thursday

(Photo by wallyg)

Take a tour with graffitimundo and explore the city streets and its prolific art. Then stop by Hollywood in Cambodia where you can purchase the local street artists’ works.

In the evening, the Buenos Aires Philharmonic Orchestra will be playingat the stunning Colón Theatre starting 8.30pm. Cerrito 628, Downtown. 4378 7100.

 

Friday

(Photo by OndasDeRuido)

Stop by the Juan Gatti exhibit in the Sivori museum behind the Palermo Rosedal, and then head to the Planetarium where an audiovisual exhibit by the same artist is being screened.

In the evening, visit Fierro’s Thank Fierro its Friday Happy Hour from 6pm to 8.30 pm and then head to one of the best speakeasies in the city! Soler 5862, Palermo. 3220-6800.

Saturday and Sunday

(Photo by Dena Flows)

Remember to make a reservation for Hernán Gipponi’s unique must-try brunch, served on Saturdays and Sundays! Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood. 3220-6800.  info@hgrestaurant.com.ar.

PM Open air music– Outdoor live music, art and more merge in this new Saturday event which takes place in Palermo from 2pm to 9pm. Paraguay 4905, Palermo

On Saturday, Ian Anderson, Jethro Tull’s leading man, will be playing live at the Gran Rex Theatre. Tickets here. 

On Sunday don’t miss the free concert at the Colón Theatre featuring the Camerata Bariloche at 11am. Be sure to pick up your tickets in advance! Cerrito 628, Downtown. 4378 7100.

March in Buenos Aires

(Photo by [..næ..])

As the legal recess comes to an end and schools begin a new academic year, the city picks up its pace and prepares to receive Autumn and the Easter bunny in full swing.

Live music, art exhibits, and the Colón Theatre Season are all part of the upcoming cultural program.

Festivals and Events

Inauguration of the A line: The historical A subway line, which has been closed during the Summer for renovations, will be reopening this March. On your way to the Tortoni and Congress, look out for the gorgeous new murals at the Plaza de Mayo station by Triangulo Dorado  and other artistic interventions at the different stations and on the subways themselves.

Masa Crítica: 3rd of March. This monthly event gathers bicycle riders the first Sunday of each month at the Obelisco on Av. 9 de Julio with the purpose of touring the city thus promoting the use of bicycles as transport. If you would like to join you can rent a bike at Bici Naranja.

Nighttime tour of the Ecological Reserve- 9th of March. Discover the nightlife of the city’s ecological reserve under the light of the moon.  Sign up in advance for the tour on the 5th of March at 0800-444-5343.

CiuDanza:  14th-17th of March.  Parque Las Heras, Plaza San Martín and Parque Patricios will be the stages for this dance festival that merges dance with urban spaces. Find the full program here.

Colón Theatre 2013 Program: The stunning theatre kicks off their annual program of operas, ballets and concerts. Check out the full program here.

Easter Weekend: 28th-31st of March. With the Autumn chill comes the friendly Easter bunny full of comforting chocolate. Friday the 29th is a national holiday.

Live Music

Elton John- 2nd of March. The legendary singer/songwriter will be playing at Estadio Velez Sarsfield on Saturday. Get your tickets here.

Ian Anderson- 10th of March. Jethro Tull’s leading man will be playing live at the Gran Rex Theatre. Tickets here. 

Moon Park- 16th of March.  The second part of the Moon Park electronic festival, featuring Sasha and Hernán Cattaneo will be taking place at Centro Costa Salguero. Tickets here.

The Killers- 31st of March. The popular Vegas band will be staging a live show at GEBA. Tickets here.

Art Exhibits

MALBA

Adriana Varejao- 27 Mar- 30 Jun.

MAMBA

Ronald Shakespeare Retrospective- 21st March

MACBA

Geometry in Argentina- 9th of March

Juan José Cambré- 16th of March- 12th of May

MNAD

Lucio Boschi Photography- 15 Mar- 28 Apr.

Buenos Aires Summer 2013

(Photo by Shan Sheehan)

A new year is upon us, and with it, a whole new calendar to fill with events and activities in the city. Below are some of the monthly highlights to take into consideration for this Summer.

January

In Argentina January is always a month of legal recess so a lot of activity slows down and many a Porteño flee to the nearby beaches.  It is also a time chosen for renovations.  This year the A-line subway, with its antique wagons will be closed down for renovations during January and perhaps February too.   The decorative arts museum in Palermo is also closed for renovations until the 14th of January, as is the Planetarium until the 21st of January. The Colón Theatre remains open for touring but kicks off with its program in March.

Exhibits:

Traditional Argentine Figurative Art at the Museo Benito Quinquela Martín. Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1843, La Boca. 4301-1080.

Alberto Giacometti/ Contemporary Argentine art- Fundacion PROA. Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1929, La Boca.  4104.1000.

Tracey Emin/ Oscar Muñoz- MALBA. Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Recoleta. 4808-6511

Contraluz- Juan Gatti- Sivory MuseumAv. Infanta Isabel 555, Palermo. 4772-5628.

Margarita Paksa/ Massimo Listri/ Italian video art 2004-2012/ Lux Linder/Alejandro Somaschini/ Site Specific,Matías Ercole, Juan Malka and Kirsten Dosel-  MAMBA. Av. San Juan 350, San Telmo.  4342-3001.

Homage to Arquitect Pablo Pater/ Nativity Scene by María Isabel Fotheringham- Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernandez Blanco. Suipacha 1422, downtown. 4327- 0228.

February

Activity picks up in February with important sports events including a Boca-River football match and the Davies Cup tennis tournament. Also in February is the Shakespeare festival, that brings literature and theatre to the city scene,  and live concerts by Andrew Bird, Jamiroquai and Fatboy Slim as well as the Ultra Buenos Aires 2013 electronic music festival.

Exhibits:

Traditional Argentine Figurative Art at the Museo Benito Quinquela Martín. Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1843, La Boca. 4301-1080.

Tracey Emin/ Oscar Muñoz- MALBA. Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Recoleta. 4808-6511

Contraluz- Juan Gatti- Sivory MuseumAv. Infanta Isabel 555, Palermo. 4772-5628.

Margarita Paksa/ Massimo Listri/ Italian video art 2004-2012/ Lux Linder/Alejandro Somaschini/ Site Specific,Matías Ercole, Juan Malka and Kirsten Dosel-  MAMBA. Av. San Juan 350, San Telmo.  4342-3001.

March

March marks the beginning of the school year and also the end of the Summer and the beach season. The Colón Theatre will be showcasing the ballet Neoclassic Trilogy III and their first concerts of the year.  The outdoor contemporary dance festival Ciudanza will also be taking place. International live acts in March include Elton John, Jethro Tull’s Ian Anderson and The Killers.  More events will continue to be announced closer to date.

Exhibits:

Traditional Argentine Figurative Art at the Museo Benito Quinquela Martín. Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1843, La Boca. 4301-1080.

Contraluz- Juan Gatti- Sivory MuseumAv. Infanta Isabel 555, Palermo. 4772-5628.

Margarita Paksa/ Massimo Listri/ Italian video art 2004-2012/ Lux Linder/Alejandro Somaschini/ Site Specific,Matías Ercole, Juan Malka and Kirsten Dosel-  MAMBA. Av. San Juan 350, San Telmo.  4342-3001.

Ciudanza 2012

(Photo by pollobarba)

Starting this Thursday, three city parks will be displaying unique contemporary dance performances for the Ciudanza festival, which seeks to fuse dance with urban landscapes.

 

On Thursday and Friday four performances will be held at the Barrancas de Belgrano parks, starting at 8pm.

Afecto, is a performance by Fabiana Capriotti and Gabriel Greca, which brings the theme of affection and being affected to the stage by exploring the limits of physical contact.

El suicidio de Madame B., inspired by Flaubert’s Madame Bovary, brings Emma’s character to life, to the sound of music by PJ Harvey and Schubert amongst others.

Invisible is a group choreography that weaves fleeting physical constructions and actions with the landscape.

Una Fauna occurs in the division of two territories; the Pampas and the Rio de la Plata. Between the two is a new animal life that comes to life with nocturnal sounds and music.

 

On Saturday and Sunday performances will be held in Parque Lezama in San Telmo, starting 3pm, and in Parque Chacabuco starting 5pm.

 

The program for Parque Lezama is as follows:

Jujuy, interpreted by Rosaura García and Emanuel Ludueña, deals with interdependence and a fragile balance where permanent conflict reigns.

Lazos is a group choreography that deals with the different types of bonds people make. Some come together, others, come apart.

Loop Imperfecto is a group choreography that brings to stage an abstract performance where a path is traced and movement is put into circulation.

 

In Parque Chacabuco:

Coctel. Con la mancha en la blusa explores the idea of living in the moment, being open to possibilities, and going with the flow.

Horario de descarga, explores different levels of rigidity between two dancers, and their relationship with a Cartwright.

Tiempos que corren is an acrobatics performance where a number of clothing items are interchanged causing different reactions in the performers.

More information here.