Fierro Loves Hollywood: Palermo’s Hottest Blocks

Palermo is divided into all sorts of funny sub categories (most unofficial) and new ones keep popping up all the time. Some of the better known ones include Palermo Viejo (or “old” Palermo), Palermo SOHO (where all the designer shops are), and Palermo Hollywood. New sub-Palermos also include Palermo Botánico (where the Botanical gardens are, you guessed it!), Palermo Zoo (another self-explanatory one), Palermo Queens (better known as Villa Crespo but rebaptized by some because it is supposedly one of the city’s transvestite epicenters), and Palermo Freud/Sensible (because a lot of psychologists have their practice in the area). Regardless of names, it is important to know that the popular neighborhood is divided into North and South of Juan B. Justo, Between Libertador Avenue and Santa Fé, and between Santa Fé and Avenida Córdoba.

Fierro Hotel is located in the glamorous Palermo Hollywood, which coined its name after radio stations and production companies began to open up in the area in the nineties. Its limits are Av. Córdoba, Santa Fé, Dorrego and Juan B. Justo and it is one of the liveliest areas in town in terms of dining, nightlife, shopping, art and more. Over the following weeks we will be reviewing the hottest spots for coffee, drinks, and why not even a manicure. Of course, brunch and dinner are always best at Hernán Gipponi Restaurant, but there are some pretty great neighbors to get to know too.

Neighborhood Markets and Fairs in Buenos Aires

(Photo by jvc)

Neighborhood markets are charming places to find local characters and unique flavors and knickknacks. Below is a list of markets in BA where you will come across traditional foods, trinkets, craftwork, bargain prices and freaky finds.

Belgrano

Feria Modelo de Belgrano: Foodies will enjoy this indoor European style fair which was started in the 50´s in a well preserved 1800´s building and is now the place to go for gourmet products such as Patagonian trout, mushrooms, cheeses, and unique meat cuts like quail or armadillo. Open Mon-Fri from 8am-1pm and 5pm-8.30pm, and Sat from 8am-1pm. Ciudad de la Paz and Juramento.

Barrio Chino: Also in Belgrano is the local china town, a popular place amongst locals and foreigners who seek oriental specialties, and unique colors and flavors.  Juramento and Arribeños.

Palermo

Mercado de Pulgas in Palermo: The Dorrego Flea Market in Palermo is often overlooked and is the perfect place to go on a treasure hunt.  Antiques and curious finds are waiting to be dug up and claimed in this charming neighborhood market. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm.  Av.Dorrego and Conde.

Recoleta

Feria de Artesanos Plaza Francia: If you´re looking for hand woven textiles, wood carvings, artisanal leather goods and other local craftwork the Artisans fair in Plaza Francia, right next to the Recoleta cemetery, is the place to go. Open on weekends and holidays from 11am-8pm. Av. Libertador and Pueyrredon.

San Telmo

Feria de Antiguedades de San Telmo: San Telmo is a world known antique center where valuable collectors items are sold, but also, where knick-knacks and unique objects from the immigrants that populated the country can be found.  Although the neighborhood is full of antique stores that can be visited during the week, it’s the fair on Sundays that gathers visitors and locals alike.  Defensa and Humberto 1.

Caballito

Mercado del Progreso: This food market in the Caballito neighborhood is one of the oldest in the city having opened in 1889. Colorful vegetable stands and butchers that sell meat fresh from the farms are what the market is known for. The market is also around the corner of the antique tram, which you can visit on the weekends.   Market open on Mon-Sat from 7.30am-1pm, and 5pm-8.30pm. Av. Rivadavia 5430.

Mataderos

Feria de Mataderos: The Mataderos fair is held every Sunday and offers regional foods, gaucho accessories, knitwear, and leather bags amongst others. Gaucho traditions, such as the “carrera de sortija” and typical dances from around the country are also carried out on a stage. The fair is on Lisandro de la Torre Avenue, in Mataderos on Sunday. To get there, we suggest you coordinate transport with the hotel, as you will have to go through some dodgy areas to arrive.

More:

For organic produce, eco products and a laid back atmosphere head to El Galpón de Chacarita. Wednesday and Saturday 9am to 6pm. Av. Fédérico Lacroze 4171, Chacarita. 4554 9330.

Cheap bargains, unusual finds (including odd shaped mannequins) and noisy crowds at the Once shopping district.

Buenos Aires International Design Festival

(Photo by fernandoprats)

The Buenos Aires International Design Festival kicks off this Friday promising for an interesting weekend full of activities at the CMD (Centro Metropolitano de Diseño)  in Barracas.

With the future city as a central theme, the exhibits and events will include bike rides through city neighborhoods led by fashion designer Martin Churba,  Olivier Hanocq, and architect Emiliano Espasandín, exhibitions of the city terraces, video installations and photography, and an international exhibit on upcoming projects amongst others.

Free transport will be available every hour and a half from the Colon Theatre from 12-8pm. The #12 bus is also an option. We suggest getting there by cab for allthough Barracas is a lovely area, it is off the beaten path and has a dodgy side to it.

More information on the neighborhood bike rides, timetables and starting points here, and you can find a bike rental option here.

Festival Internacional de Diseño

CMD

Algarrobo 1041, Barracas

4126-2950

cmd@buenosaires.gob.ar

10 Neighborhoods to Explore in Buenos Aires

1 Retiro: Full of movement and busy commuters going to and fro the central train station and bus terminals, this lively neighborhood is great for people watching and has wonderful sites too. The San Martin Park with its Malvinas monument, the Torre Monumental, The Kavanagh Building, the stunning Military Palace with its museum of arms, the Fernandez Blanco Hispanic art museum and the art galleries around calle Arroyo, make Retiro a great place to visit.

(Retiro train station by carlosoliveirareis)

2 San Nicolas: Next to Retiro, often know as downtown, this emblematic neighborhood is known for its many notable bars such as La Giralda and Confiteria Ideal, for the famous Obelisco and Corrientes Avenue where you can find Broadway like theatres, bookstores galore and the best pizzerias in town, and for its architectural landmarks such as Tribunales, the Palacio de Aguas Corrientes, and the stunning Colon Theatre.

(9 de Julio Avenue by puroticorico)

3 Puerto Madero: On the other side of San Nicolas, crossing the Leando Alem Avenue is Puerto Madero. This area, which is pierced by the river, is lined with renovated warehouses which were turned into hip restaurants. Modern and upscale, it is a great place to walk through, and lunch in. The elegant Puente de la Mujer, the Fragata de Libertad (a ship turned into a museum) and the Ecological Reserve through which you can get one of the best views of the city, are worth checking out whilst in the area.

(Puerto Madero by matt.hintsa)

4 La Boca: A well-known neighborhood in the turistic circuit because of its colorful houses and its historic relevance in the unique migratory patterns that defined the city’s identity in the early 20th century. Places worth checking out are Caminito, fundacion PROA (great art exhibits), the Quinquela Martin museum and the Boca stadium.

(La Boca by Paula Soler-Moya)

5 Barracas: This historic off the beaten path neighborhood was originally occupied by the emblematic families of the city who built beautiful palaces, houses and churches. An outbreak of yellow fever however scared these families out of their homes at the end of the 19th century and working class later populated it. A textile factory, and a chocolate factory amongst other were opened attracting more workers. These factories however closed in the eighties, and the construction of nearby highways impoverished the once rich neighborhood even more. This coexistence of classes and structures with interesting places such as churches, factories, pasaje lanin, and an underground meeting spot for secret societies make Barracas a very interesting place to visit. We do insist that you go with someone who knows the area as there are parts of the neighborhood that are very unsafe. Eternautas, for example offers a great tour of this area.

(Pasaje Lanin by jafsegal)

6 San Telmo: Another favorite on the turistic circuit, San Telmo is a colorful and lively neighborhood known for its antique fair on Sundays. Apart from its antique shops, it has many lovely traditional bars (El Federal, Bar Seddon, Bar Dorrego), a buzzing modern art and design scene (check out the MAMBA museum) and a lot of tango shows both on and off the streets.

(San Telmo antique fair by Paula Soler-Moya)

7 Monserrat: The historical and “political” neighborhood of Buenos Aires. Monserrat is where Congress and the government house (Casa Rosada) are set. Also in the area is Plaza de Mayo, Palacio Barolo, the subway line, which still keeps the charming old-fashioned wagons, Cafe Tortoni and Los 36 Billares and La Manzana de las Luces, an old jesuit residence dating back to the 1700’s.

(Cabildo by loco085)

8 Abasto and Almagro: (They’re really two neighborhoods but since they’re next to each other and have so much in common we decided to join them.) These buzzing cultural neighborhoods are considered to be tango epicenters as none other than Carlos Gardel was raised there. Consequently, the Carlos Gardel museum is in this neighborhood, as well as many tango bars and milongas such as La Catedral and El Bar de Roberto. Other places to visit are Confiteria Las Violetas, one of the most beautiful teahouses in the city, and the Centro Cultural Konex where original and lively shows are often staged.

(Pasaje Zelaya by mccopa)

9 Recoleta: the rich families of the city populated this luxurious emblematic neighborhood when they fled from Barracas due to the yellow fever outbreak. The lush parks and elaborate French architecture come to mind when Buenos Aires is referred to as the Paris of South America. The famous Recoleta cemetery is a must visit in the area, as well as the two art museums (MALBA and MNBA), the Duhau Palace, the Floralis Generica sculpture next to the national school of law and La Biela cafe.

(Floralis Generica by Evelyn Proimos)

10 Palermo: This extensive neighborhood has become the it place for dining, shopping and going out. Its lovely corners, gourmet restaurants, boutique hotels, unique design stores make it fun and lively. Its gorgeous 3 de Febrero parks with its rose garden, Japanese garden, Botanical garden and Zoo, and the racetracks complete this bustling areas appeal.

(Rosedal by claudioruiz)