Off the Beaten Path- Villa Ocampo

Villa Ocampo

Villa Ocampo, a beautiful homestead in the suburbs of the city, was a meeting point for intellectuals and authors of the early twentieth century. Rabindranath Tagore, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, Borges, Bioy Casares, Octavio Paz, Albert Camus, Stravinsky, Le Corbusier, Malraux and Indira Gandhi are just a few of the guests that were welcome to the villa by renown Argentine author Victoria Ocampo.  She later donated the stately residence to the UNESCO out of fear that the Peronist government of the time, who censored her, would destroy the place. Additionally, it was her wish that Villa Ocampo remain as a cultural juncture.

Now a day the property functions as a museum with temporary exhibitions and live music.  The current exhibitions include a presentation of Victoria and architecture, (she introduced rationalist architecture in the city), and an exhibit of an unpublished issue of the SUR magazine on Surrealism.

You may also sit down for lunch or tea in the gardens (we suggest some tea with scones).

Opening hours- Thur-Sun 12.30pm-6pm

Tours- Thur and Fri- 2.30pm and 4.30pm

Sat and Sun- 2.30pm, 3.30pm, 4.30pm.

Entrance fee- 18 pesos

Elortondo 1837

Beccar, Partido de San Isidro

Tel (54-11) 4732-4988

How to get there-

By train- From Retiro on the Train that goes to TIGRE. Get off at the Beccar station and either take a cab or walk 7 blocks until Puente Uriburu and then turn to the right at El Ortondo.

By car-Drive straight down Av.Libertador up to the 17,400 where Puente Uriburu is and turn right, one block, then right again at El Ortondo.

This week in Buenos Aires:

Overnight, the weather changed announcing the arrival of autumn, and with it comes not only cooler weather and browning leaves but also some great  theatre premiers, music and film festivals. This week hosts The Autumn Music Festival which brings togeather both modern and folkloric music from different regions of the world. (more information at On Thursday the liveliest night of the week gets a boost from the St Patricks day celebrations!


A little bit of history is a great way to begin the week and a visit to the “Casa Rosada” and to the Presidential Museum is the perfect starting point. In the evening from 8pm onwards you can go to nearby traditional Bar Sur where you can sit and watch live tango.

Casa Rosada and Presidential Museum
Yrigoyen 219, Buenos Aires

Bar Sur
Estados Unidos 299, Buenos Aires
+54 (11) 43626086

*The friday nocturnal tour of the ecological reserve must be booked no later than today- see Friday for more details.


La Boca is a famous ‘barrio’ known for its brightly painted houses and its conventillos, where mostly Italian immigrants settled. After walking through ‘caminito’,  visit the Quinquela Martin art museum where a collection of this local artists depictions of La Boca is displayed.  For a great lunch in the area, go to El Obrero, a very old traditional Argentine-Italian restaurant.
In the evening head to the Autumn Music Festival at La Trastienda to listen to French singer Berry’s music.

Museo Quinquela Martin
Pedro de Mendoza, Av. 1835- Buenos Aires
4301 1080
Opening hours: Mon-Sun 10am to 6pm

El obrero
Agustín R. Caffarena 64 – Buenos Aires
Tel: 4362-9912
No credit cards

La Trastienda
Balcarce 460, San Telmo


La Manzana de las Luces is a block of historical buildings which housed the first public school, university and library. On this block is the San Ignacio church, the oldest in Buenos Aires. A mysterious set of tunnels, dating back to the 1700’s is another of this landmarks attractions.

Later on head to The New Brighton, a restored traditional british style restaurant that still keeps two magnificent wood carvings that the prince of Wales gave to the original Brighton in 1935.

In the evening the Rio Café, a classy resto-bar offers great music and drinks from 9pm onwards.

Manzana de las Luces
Perú 272, San Telmo

The New Brighton
Sarmiento 645, Buenos Aires

Rio Café
Honduras 4772-Palermo


For an off the beaten path experience of the local art scene Juanele offers the San Telmo Art Walk. The walk covers street and graffiti art and the major galleries in the San Telmo area. Walks start at 3pm at the Centro Cultural de España (CCEBA).

Later on in the night head to one of the pubs in town for some sure fun. Buda Bar in Palermo is also hosting a St Patricks day party which promises leprechauns, lucky charms and great music.

San Telmo Art Walk
CCEBA: Balcarce 1150, San Telmo Tuesdays and Thursdays

Buda Bar
Costa Rica 4659, Palermo SOHO


Start the day late by having an upscale lunch at Chila in Puerto Madero. Whilst in the area check out Buque Museo Fragata, a frigate commissioned by the navy in 1898 to be used as a training vessel.

Later on in the evening take the guided nocturnal tour of the ecologic reserve which occurs once a month, on full moons. To take the tour you must book your place on Monday the 14th of March.

Alicia Moreau de Justo 1160- Puerto Madero

Buque Museo Fragata Sarmiento
Next to “Puente de la Mujer”
Phone: 11/4334-9386

Reserva Ecológica
Av. Tristán Achával Rodríguez 1550 Costanera Sur
Teléfonos: 4893-1640/1580


A great day to visit the Recoleta Cementary and the artisans fair in Plaza Francia.

In the evening, jazz bar/restaurant/record store, Notorious, hosts a jazz jam session from 11.30pm onwards.

Recoleta Cementary
Junín 1760 – CABA 
Open from 07,00 to 17,45.

Av. Callao 966, Buenos Aires


Sunday afternoon is a great opportunity go to a horse race in the Palermo Hipodromo. Race timetables are confirmed on Wednesdays.

Hipodromo de Palermo
Avenida Del Libertador 4101
4778 2800